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  • finishing question

    Hi guys,

    I have read several times about a recipe for a finish. I think it is 1/3 blo, 1/3 mineral spirits, and 1/3 poly. Is this right? If so, what gloss of poly, satin, semigloss, or gloss? Does it make a difference? What will the finish look like when dry? I am putting it on a coat rack/bench that will sit in the foyer. It will be made of qtr sawn white oak. If there is another recipe that you think will work better, then by all means tell me about it.

    All the work that I have done, a hobbiest with a bit of knolledge, has been finished with straight poly. I am looking for a better, more proffesional looking finish, so any info will greatly be appreciated. I have plenty of scrap to practice on.

    Jim

  • #2
    You got the recipe correct. One advantage to using this formula is that it can be wiped on. A nice feature if air bubbles or brush marks have been a problem in the past. Definately try it on some scrap first though as a disadvantage, in my eyes anyway, is that under even the best of conditions it takes a loooong time to dry.

    If memory serves me, there was a very detailed thread on this subject about 6 months ago over at the WoodNet site. You might want to do a search over there to see if you can find it. IIRC, it was on their "Woodworking" forum. Might want to use 1/3 blo, 1/3 poly as your search criteria.
    Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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    • #3
      Give this formula a shot, you can do two coats a day. 25% pure tung oil, 25% spar (exterior) varnish, 50% paint thinner. 4 - 6 drops of Japan drier/cup of mix. The key is the Japan Drier, it shortens drying time of natural oils. This stuff will harden in a sealed container in about 3 days

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      • #4
        Thanks for the tips. do you ususally need to sand inbetween coats for both recipes? Where can I find this Japan drier? Badger, when you say loooong time to dry, how looong are we talking?

        I want to try both these and any more that come in. Like I said, I have lots of scrap to practice on.
        Thanks again for your responce. The info is great. This place is a vault of good info, if used properly.

        Jim

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        • #5
          The times that I've used it, it has taken anywhere from 18 to 24 hours to dry. That's not a big deal if you have a seperate finish room but I don't so I'm bsically shut down when I use this finish. I really like the results I get from this formula, I just wish it would dry faster. I also like the fact that its a wipe on finish.
          Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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          • #6
            A quick wipe with scotchbrite between coats and then when you have 4 - 6 coats on let it dry for 2 days then rub with 600 grit. If you have any sanding marks you can erase them with a cloth dampen in thinner. The finish will be touch dry in about 20 min recoat in about 8 hr but takes about a week to reach full cure before using the furniture
            One source of Japan Dryer is Woodworkers Supply - or any BEHLEN dealer
            Should speed the dry time on your formula too BD

            [ 02-15-2005, 01:46 PM: Message edited by: wbrooks ]

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