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  • Jointing on router table

    Good day

    This set-up is a little bit controversial. Some people think that it's safe enough and some, think that it's dangerous operation.

    I use this set-up just to "skim" or "shave" some 0.008"~0.012" at every pass just to get nice and tight glue line. It also gives me a very consistent width of the workpieces.

    I made it in stages, first I tried without any feather boards and it worked very good but then, I decided to add feather boards (first, wooden and later, iron) so the workpiece will be held or pressed to the straight edge.

    On one of my test I pushed the wood intentionally into the bit but the bit only dug into the wood...

    Later I added additional fence that is not only giving me more safety (it sits some 0.04" from the workpiece and covering almost all the bit) but also means to re-adjust the straight edge for different workpieces width very quickly.

    one important note; the straight edge length must be at list double the length of the board being jointed (I have a 10' straight ebge that covers most of my needs).

    So I leave it to you to decide if it is safe for you or not...

    Regards
    niki









































  • #2
    Re: Jointing on router table






















    On the following pictures, I added the fence...





















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    • #3
      Re: Jointing on router table




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      • #4
        Re: Jointing on router table

        Very nice descriptive post. I just ordered a new router table and it comes with instructions on how to use it as a jointer. if it doesn't work well I may follow your lead. Thanks.

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        • #5
          Re: Jointing on router table

          thanks for the posts Niki, Some interesting ideas.
          I've used the router in this fashion, but without the feahter boards. I find that the router bit pushes the board against the fence.

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          • #6
            Re: Jointing on router table

            Thank you so much Hendidad

            You are the second person (except me) that admits that he is using the method.

            Many people thinks that the method is dangerous because the workpiece is trapped between the bit and the fence and according to the Pro's, it's big no no...

            Of course if I'll try to cut 1/16" or more, it might be a little bit dangerous as the bit can "dig" into the wood and kick it back but if I'm cutting only 0.008"~0.011" and using the feather boards, I don't think that it will "catch".

            I made it also without the feather boards and it works very smooth but, to be on the safe side- in case of "operator induced kickback" - I use also the feather boards.

            On the pics below, you can see 4 boards (25" long 1ΒΌ" thick) that I joint to make a mitered frame for glass top coffee table...

            Regards
            niki






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