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  • need help with hardware selection

    I have finished rough sketching my next project and before moving it to the drafting table, I find myself needing some euro type hinges. What I have is a door next to a drawer front. The door needs to open out over the drawer front. The door and drawer are both 3/4" thick. I am not familure at all with these type hinges. Looking at several sites, I see there is a wide variety of these hinges. I'm not sure which one is the right one for my application.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction?
    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>

  • #2
    I'm not sure there is such a thing, but I'm also not sure I understand the specs. Some questions back, please:

    Face frame or frameless?

    What is the overlap of the door (full, inset, or measure)?

    By opening out over the adjoining drawer, do you mean an articulating hinge that would move out an inch or so, then move away from the opening? If so, would another means work, like the door opening within its' profile?



    • #3
      Dave, thanks for replying.
      I'm lost for words on how to discribe it, so I drew a basic diagram. I think if it opened within it's own profile, without hitting the drawer next to it, or the panel behind it, that would be the best choice.

      [ 02-25-2003, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: UO_Woody ]
      John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


      • #4

        Used this type of surface mount, concealed, spring-loaded hinge recently. Allows door to move towards you and open within its own width. Also you don't have to cut large holes as with most Euro-style hinges.

        Also these could also be considered:


        [ 02-25-2003, 01:02 PM: Message edited by: Cutbuff ]


        • #5
          Hi Woody: I'm curious as to how your project will be utilized. Looks interesting.


          • #6
            A hinge like a Blum CLIP top-107 will work for your application. It is a full-overlay hinge that requires 1.3mm side clearance, which is where your diagram shows 1/16" gap. A sixteenth inch is a little over 1.5mm, you're just squeaking it in there. You might consider just a hair larger.

            There are lots of good makers, I'm used to Blum. If there is a local supplier you trust who handles something else, it should be easy to find. These are standard hinges.

            Blum's info on CLIP top is at!OpenDocument . You really want to speak to someone about ordering them, getting all the mount brackets and such right is important.



            • #7
              Dave & Dave

              Thanks for your help, I know now what I need in a hinge for this application. You both have been a tremendous help!


              The cabinet is going to be fitted with 2" casters on the bottom, and will fit under the right side of my table saw. I'm making a bigger extension wing to accomodate it's 36" width, and so the fence rails won't stick out past the extension. I'll be laminating the top of this new extension as well so stock will slide easier across it.

              The cabinet has a peg board pull out on both front and back. On the back side: The peg board pull out will hold accessories for the band saw. the top drawer will hold paint brushes, glue brushes, putty knifes, paint rollers and stir sticks. The doors open to a compartment that will hold glue and wood putty. The 2 drawers on the bottom will have dividers with 3/8" between them that will slide into grooves and adjust the size of the compartments to accomodate the various width band saw blades.
              On the front: The peg board pull out will hold insert plates, blade guard, wrenchs and my dado stack. the top drawer will be a 3/4" flat frame with a recessed 1/4" bottom for cut sheets so they are close at hand. The drawer under it will hold push sticks, push blocks and feather boards. A drawer under that will hold a tenenning jig, miter jig, and auxilary fence. A flip down door on the bottom will reviel 2 drawers side by side that will have individual pull out panels that will hold the various 10" blades for the table saw, RAS and miter saw. When it's all done I'll be doing a segment of it on my site. I've decided to wait on the drafting stage until it's completed so any changes can be made on the sketch sheets before drafting. So the plans will be added when completed to my site.

              Thanks again for everyone's help with the hinges!
              John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


              • #8
                Great idea & well planed, thanks for the details!