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  • Help with squaring one side of a board

    I have some pine lumber that is square on one edge of each board and I have been trying to square the other.
    I use the fence of the 3650 which I have adjusted to be parallel to the right hand miter slot.
    I put the good edge to the fence and rip the board and when it is ripped I check the square on my work table. The bad edge still has a bow in the middle(about 1/16" for 20 or 30" and is flat at both ends. The good edge still shows to be flat.
    I watch the board as it goes through and it stays flat to the fence.
    I am using a thin kerf 60 tooth Frued Diablo blade.
    Is it possible that pressure is flexing the blade as the board is pushed through.
    I could understand the problem better if the ends were not flat with the center raised.
    James
    Last edited by harrison2119; 03-05-2008, 12:10 AM.

  • #2
    Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

    Maybe you aren't holding your mouth right.

    Sorry I don't have a better answer. My thinking is if all you say is correct, the only thing could be a warped fence or flexing/wobbling blade.

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    • #3
      Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

      When I posted I should have said the edge of the board. I am trying to square the edges of the board. I don't have a jointer.
      Also the boards are 1x8 60".

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      • #4
        Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

        Switch to a full kerf blade. The thin one is flexing. Bent fence would not do this and it is almost impossible to bend them anyway.
        info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

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        • #5
          Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

          check to see if the blade of the saw is parallel with the miter slots, there is normally some kind of adjustment to true the blade with the top of the saw.
          Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
          attributed to Samuel Johnson
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

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          • #6
            Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

            My guess is the board twisted to the flat surface. As you push it across the table, it is raising and lowering the side against the blade or fence, causing an angle at the cut. I make a lot of things out of construction pine (usually start with 2 x 8 SYP). After I rough cut to length, I flatten one face with a hand plane first because I have found that I am spinning my wheels otherwise. If you are using a thin kerf blade (I mainly use a full kerf) don't take "half-cuts" (i.e. where you do not have any wood going down the waste side of the blade). This will minimize any warpage to the blade. I have used the Freud 60t TK blade to edge boards, but go slow so I don't warp out the blade.

            Using the stock Ridgid blade that came with my 3650, I managed to warp it out over 1/8" at the top when resawing pine, to the point the blade bound up, made strange noises and I smelled smoke, so I stopped the saw. I have not had that problem with the Freud, but it is probably as much due to I learned not to push too fast and don't try to resaw warped lumber until I flatten the face.

            Also realize that construction pine is only "kiln dried' to about 14% moisture content (MC). In essence, they raise the interior temp to over 130 degrees for at least 6 hours to kill any bugs, but it doesn't do squat to stop warpage. If the kiln drying is done off shore, many ships store the lumber on deck or in damp cargo areas, so the moisture content increases considerably before it gets to the store. That means it has a tendency to warp when you remove any appreciable amount of wood (and also when they remove the banding, which is why you see so much warped stuff at the Borg).

            For furniture/cabinet work, the board needs to be about the 7%MC range to prevent appreciable movement during milling. If you buy hardwood from a lumber supplier for furniture woods, the wood is kiln dried to about 7% and has been allowed to gradually reach temp and moisture loss (This is not done solely to make you happy, It reduces the amount they lose to splitting and warping).

            I make the first cuts and let the board acclimate (set a day) to let it get rid of the moisture in the cut sides. I then take a minimal recut to true the edge.

            Using inexpensive lumber works, but what you save in $$ is spent in time and aggravation.

            Hope some of this diatribe helps

            Go

            PS I also don't have a power jointer
            Practicing at practical wood working

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

              Thank you very much. I believe you are right. I put the full kerf blade on today and got the same problem. There is some warp in the boards. How do you get the one square side if you have no jointer? I have tried two homemade jigs and so far they aren't any good. I am in the process of planeing one edge of one board and am gradually getting there. I took one board to a wood shop this morning and had them joint one side and then I used the saw to do the other and it worked fine.
              I really appreciate the time and effort all of you put in the responses.
              James

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

                Harrison,

                Have you tried anything like this before?

                http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/

                I intend to build one of these and see how well it will square the edge.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

                  I finially used your suggestions and determined that it was because the wood was warped and some had a curl. I used a hand plane to straighten the problems and now the sides are straight. I had never really used a plane but have become pretty good after this pine.
                  Thanks for all the help. And oh yes I learned to hold my mouth right.
                  James

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

                    Sometimes, holding your mouth right is just the ticket.

                    It's funny reading this post. I forgot ever posting in it and when I saw the bit about holding your mouth right I wanted to see who else says it. Hey it's me! Silly me.

                    I'm glad to hear you figured it out. I have had the same problem. I made a jointer for my router table and still seem to have a terrible time getting it right. I don't own a hand plane or a jointer. Still trying to get it right.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

                      Originally posted by papadan View Post
                      Switch to a full kerf blade. The thin one is flexing. Bent fence would not do this and it is almost impossible to bend them anyway.
                      I have a TS3650 and use thin kerf blades exclusively. I do quite a bit of precision work building furniture. I normally do not have the problem the OP describes, which tells me that TK blades are fine. I have experienced the problem the OP describes many times, and it has always turned out to be a property of the wood rather than the saw blade. Quite often, if you rip towards the center of a board, you will relieve internal stresses in the material and it will warp slightly as a result. This is a very common problem. The solution is to rip the board wide and then run it through the jointer to get it straight again. At this point, you can rip it to exact dimension and it will be straight.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

                        save one of those straight boards and go get your self a set of joint'r clamps from sears or they are also availible in several wood working mags. one little dado and your on your way to straight board heaven. Happy cutting

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                        • #13
                          Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

                          My father 1905-1973 as a young man worked as a carpenter for a wile after he left the farm. The hold your mouth wright was one of his favorite expressions. I think his next favorite was concerning minor errors. "A blind man will never see it and a d*#n fool will never know the differance".

                          I myself are quite fond of both.

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                          • #14
                            Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

                            snap a chalk line and free hand it, if it is a major bow, if not use a hand plane preferable a jointer and joint it, if you have a router and a straight edge use that as a jointer, there was a post a few weeks ago on making a sacrificial fence and using the table saw as jointer, http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...=table+jointer check out the urls in the posts,

                            but if I have a board that is really bowed I usually jsut take a chalk like and free hand it,

                            if you have line light or make one with a shadow line it helps, the shadow or the line is lined up over the blade of the saw, and helps one hold the board straight to the blade, the simplest would probly be to suspend a laser level above the saw with the line guide on for the light, I made mine with a 300 watt quarts flood light and two arms on it with a wire under it for the shadow line,
                            Last edited by BHD; 05-12-2008, 10:10 PM.
                            Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
                            ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                            "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
                            attributed to Samuel Johnson
                            ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                            PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Help with squaring one side of a board

                              Originally posted by petersenj20 View Post
                              Sometimes, holding your mouth right is just the ticket.

                              It's funny reading this post. I forgot ever posting in it and when I saw the bit about holding your mouth right I wanted to see who else says it. Hey it's me! Silly me.

                              I'm glad to hear you figured it out. I have had the same problem. I made a jointer for my router table and still seem to have a terrible time getting it right. I don't own a hand plane or a jointer. Still trying to get it right.
                              Funny you should mention having terrible time using your router table as a jointer. That was why I was searching this forum. I'm having a heck of a time doing the same. I'll post my questions about this in a new post, but wondered if you ever got it right.

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