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3612 Rough start

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  • 3612 Rough start

    Hey Jake or who ever has the know, I just started my new 3612 for the first time and it bucks pretty hard compared to what I've heard stated by other owners on the forum. The motor jumps at least 3/4" and I get a shudder through the table and then the machine stablilizes and runs smooth and quiet. I've double checked my pulley alignment and it is close as I can get it with straight edge and eyeball. I noticed the motor wasn't really mounted square on the pivoting bracket, so I straightened that up and I've eyeballed and checked everything I can see.
    I even swapped out the OE blade with a new Freud and I still get the same action.
    While examining the motor and mount, I noticed there is quite a bit of slop or play in the pivot axis rod and at least 1/8" side to side play in the mounting. The motor pivot bracket seems to be pretty flexible and I'm wondering if this is a contributing factor.
    After reading about guys balancing washers on the table top during startup, I'm dissapointed to say the least.
    If anyone can help me out with some suggestions, please fire away.
    One other item while I have someone's attention. Maybe I'm showing my ignorance, but what is the deal with the funky blade wrench? My wrench does not fit over my arbor nut. I can angle it and catch just enough bind on the nut to get it loose, but it sure looks like an accident waiting to happen. Do I have an incorrect arbor nut or wrench, or is it designed as such?
    Thanks (I hope)
    JB Marker
    JB in Soldotna

  • #2
    The blade wrench is a tight fit....you have to get it just right to fit on the nut...keep trying. Can't help with the rough start, sorry.
    Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply Kelly, but mine doesn't fit.
      JB
      JB in Soldotna

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      • #4
        Hey Kelly
        I tried it again and I think it had a little too much paint on it. I got it to work.
        Thanks
        JB
        JB in Soldotna

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        • #5
          JB,

          Hmmm, as far as the motor jumping on start up, I really do not believe I can diagnose this over the internet. Normally, on the belt drive saws there is a slight jump on start up, especially if you have the saw plugged into a good quality circuit. It really shouldn't be too significant though. I really doubt it has anything to do with pulley alignment or the mounting bracket; it’s most likely the motor itself that’s jumping.

          It sounds like the saw is running fine the rest of the time, which is what’s really important.

          I'll drop you an email so we can discuss this further.

          Jake

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          • #6
            I'll pass on the motor thing, I trust Jake will have you smiling.

            You have fallen into a common misconception regarding that "wrench". It isn't a wrench, it is a template. You are supposed to take that to your favorite wrench dealer and use it to match up size with a proper forged wrench. Ever notice the big trash cans next to the registers at Sears. Yup, they are there for template disposal.

            Tongue in cheek obviously, but a real wrench does so much better a job.

            Dave

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            • #7
              Thanks Dave
              It didn't take me too long to figure that out. I've already replaced it. And for anyone who is interested, it is a 1 1/16".
              JB
              JB in Soldotna

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              • #8
                Before giving up on the motor jumping, have you made sure that the motor is adjusted properly in the cradle? If it not adjusted properly with the free play necessary, it could seem to "jump". (any motor will jump some and vibrate when started and runnning, but a properly adjusted hold down will keep things to a minimum)

                Also, just came to me that a motor connected with a 240 source will start somewhat faster than the standard 120 setup. (don't know what you have) I would still check the mounting bracket for proper adjustment though as a motor would have trouble bucking a 250lb saw around regardless of how it's wired.

                [ 12-11-2002, 06:53 AM: Message edited by: Mike3206 ]

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                • #9
                  Not trying to out-guess Jake, but just a couple of things I'd check---

                  --belt--no nubs or not deformed

                  --pulley guard--clear of pulley

                  --motor bracket pivot not over-tightened--should smoothly pivot.
                  Dave

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Dave Arbuckle:
                    I'll pass on the motor thing, I trust Jake will have you smiling.

                    You have fallen into a common misconception regarding that "wrench". It isn't a wrench, it is a template. You are supposed to take that to your favorite wrench dealer and use it to match up size with a proper forged wrench. Ever notice the big trash cans next to the registers at Sears. Yup, they are there for template disposal.

                    Tongue in cheek obviously, but a real wrench does so much better a job.

                    Dave
                    Ah, the old "toss-away template" huh? Funny one Dave....I guess I'll have to get an open end wrench from Sears and try it....mine fits pretty good, but it's a pain to get the "template" on there sometimes....
                    Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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                    • #11
                      I have to disagree on the "template" thing. The mfg. puts these cheap stamped wrench in the box because they work OK at minimal cost. The reason that so many wind up in the trash is that many times, you cannot get leverge, or need to get your fingers out of the way. (read: convenience)If the wrench was just a template, it would be made much cheaper (smaller guage metal) and would say so in the instructions.

                      I bought a chaep tablesaw earlier this year before my ridgid and it came with a double ended offset wrench (template) I don't think that they would have offset for finger clearance if they expected you not to use it.

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                      • #12
                        What are you supposed to use the other end of the wrench for? I'm guessing the same wrench is supplied with another tool where both ends are needed, but I can't find a use on the TS3612.

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                        • #13
                          Mike...Dave was joking!

                          The other end is for the 2400's arbor...it is made and shipped with two wrenches so that you can stabilize the arbor (and not have to hold the blade) while you loosen or tighten the arbor nut....wish the 2424 & 3612 had this feature...makes blade changes easy!
                          Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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                          • #14
                            Mike, like Kelly said, it was a joke. "Tongue in cheek" means a wry joke with a point.

                            Kelly, I recommend a combination wrench instead of an open end. First because the box end is more convenient than the open end (doesn't slip off), second because it is so long your hand is well clear of the blade in use.

                            Note that this long wrench could allow one to waaaaay overtighten the blade nut ("Farmer tight" as Jake calls it [img]smile.gif[/img] ). Don't anyone do that, you can ruin the blade by distorting the plate. I don't use a wrench at all to tighten, just finger tight hard as I can. The nut self-tightens in use.

                            Dave

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                            • #15
                              HAHA, You did get me. Although it's not that hard to believe since the wrenches most equipment come with are so small that one could easily cut one's self using them. [img]smile.gif[/img]

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