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  • TS3650 accessory suggestions, safety tips, thanks

    First, I wanted to thank the members of this forum. The exhaustive information here proved the deciding factor in picking up a TS3650 when they recently went on sale at HD. Let's face it, at $560, this saw was a bargain, at $460 - 10% mover's discount, this thing is a steal. But it was because of the postings on this forum, that I felt comfortable knowing there was a tremendous community behind this saw.

    So, long time reader, first time poster.

    Questions: My first project will be redoing some kitchen cabinets....I'm leaving the frames, but recutting the drawer boxes (to put in slides), drawer fronts, doors, etc... I'll mostly be using 1/4 - 3/4" birch ply and a little MDF. Suggestions for a good blade? My girl friend picked up the Ridgid 90T, as she thought "ultimate polish" sounded better...I love her for trying....but am I wrong in thinking this is mostly a blade for mitering cross cuts? From what I've read, I'm guessing a 30-50T Freud or Forrest Woodworker 2, combination blade would be about right for dealing with ply? Suggestions? Favorites? Would you guys go think kerf or normal size?

    Some say the Forrests cut great, but dull quicker than the Freuds....both can be resharpened (I think)....any other gotchas or caveats?

    On the issue of safety. I've got some magswitch featherboards on the way, the leecraft ZCI (I don't own a router yet, when I do, I'll try to make my own inserts) and I've already got a few push blocks I'm comfortable with. Any other suggestions/tips on kickback prevention? I looked at those rollers at woodcraft, but I worried they'd get in the way of cutting the drawer box. And, I know that the best safety device is one you use....so I figure the magswitches were easy enough to utilize "wherever". Anyone had any experience or have some good advice on accessories or techniques?

    I've read the interesting article about blade height and kickbacks, where they suggest raising the blade height about an inch over the stock height, to encourage the blade to push the stock into the table more, versus straight back. I've also read conflicting posts about where to stand....to the right or to the left? It seems that right of the blade (and right of the fence) makes some sense, but then I've seen people argue that that means they are using their left hand (I'm a righty). What are people's preferences?

    In the near future I'll be looking to replace the stock miter gauge with either the Osborne EB3 or the Incra 1000SE...there appear to be fans of both on these boards. Unless there's a third option I'm not aware of, it'll probably come down to a coin toss.

    I've got a generic dust collector bag hanging underneath the TS....what seems to be the favorite vac for the 3650 (one that fits the port I guess).

    One of these days I'll tackle the outfeed table (you guys have done some amazing work on these boards) and probably DIY a vertical panel saw for rough cuts of the bigger sheets to then take my time on with the TS.

    Then I'll eventually get man enough to venture away from buying my wood at HD....and see what else there is to offer.

    Look forward to any thoughts. You guys are really an inspiration.

    Thanks again.

  • #2
    Re: TS3650 accessory suggestions, safety tips, thanks

    The Forrest WWII 30T TK is on sale for ~ $58.57 shipped from Amazon. It'll rip nicely in wood well over 2" thick, crosscuts fairly well and should be a nice compliment to your 90T fine crosscut blade, which should cut 3/4" ply pretty well. That price may not last long....

    The Infinity 010-060 is a great plywood blade with enough versatility to use in most general purpose applications. The Freud LU88R010 is a nice all around blade that's a bit better with ply than most 40-50T blades. These are both nice compliments to a rip blade too.

    Blade dulling depends on alot of things...tooth grind, carbide hardness, usage, cleaning, materials being cut, alignment, etc ...no truth to the claim that Forrest dulls faster than Freud. The "truth" is, it depends. I get great mileage out of both brands...YMMV.
    Last edited by hewood; 03-14-2008, 02:43 PM.

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    • #3
      Re: TS3650 accessory suggestions, safety tips, thanks

      Probably my biggest input would be anytime you are getting ready to cut, if it doesn't feel safe, don't do it. Think about it some more. Safety glasses, no long loose sleeves, anything else Norm would say.

      Good luck with your cabinets, it's a great saw and should support you well.

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      • #4
        Re: TS3650 accessory suggestions, safety tips, thanks

        Welcome to the forums.

        I've got both the Forrest WWII combo blade and the Freud. The Freud I got is a thicker kerf than the WWII. Either blade works well. I love the WWII's smooth finish, and from my experience, the WWII is a bit cleaner of a cut than the Freud. The big thing on a TS is alignment, as hewood says. Take your time and align the saw carefully.

        I use plywood or MDF for ZCI's. When cutting plywood a ZCI is a MUST have. They're tricky to cut out w/out a router, but not impossible. You can use a jig saw, as long as you clamp and go carefully. It'll take a bit longer, as you have to keep moving the clamps to give the saw room.

        For Dust collection, the Ridgid shop vac does pretty good on the 3650, but it does clog the filter quick. I've got an adapter on mine, and run a 2-stage cyclone collector. I got tired of cleaning the filter after cutting one sheet of plywood!

        Enjoy the saw. It's a great deal for the money. I hope you'll post some pics of your cabinets.
        I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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        • #5
          Re: TS3650 accessory suggestions, safety tips, thanks

          A 90T crosscut blade (or close to 90) as said above - would be the best investment made and give clean cuts.

          Safety wise:
          I suggest you invest a rough $30 into a set of feather boards.
          They will discourage kickback, keep your lumber down into the blade and keep the lumber into the fence. The fine pair of feather boards will also make your cuts easier in that you only need 1 hand to push the stock.
          Your cuts will come out even and cleaner.

          You could also make your own feather boards but for $30.00 or less its about the safest tip, besides a set of safety glasses.

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          • #6
            Re: TS3650 accessory suggestions, safety tips, thanks

            This is a very good thread to bring back to life, even though it's been a year.

            Best necessary upgrades, as other have listed:
            - Blade. WWII is always a top recommendation. I like the Ridge TS2000 for my primary use blade, and you won't believe the amount of carbide on each tooty. I have a WWII-30T for ripping. Comparable in price.

            -Featherboards: Can't stress enough how critical these are to have, both functionally and for safety. I am a huge fane of the Magswitch featherboards. I finally broke down and got the double sided model from the borg... yay, Ridgid orange. With the cast iron top these are hands down the easiest and fastest-to-set featherboards. You will still need a traditional type (clampable, or miter slot locking) for situations where the magnets are over the miter slot. But these MagSwitch FBs are the first I reach for with my TS, bandsaw, and even the jointer. Great invention, IMO!

            -EAR PROTECTION: Non-sexy, hardly an item that helps your woodworking, but do yourself a favor and get some muffs. If you get 'em with music, don't turn it up too loud! Since I already have tinnitis from my Airborne days, I actually use ear plugs *inside* my ear mufs... I'm way to young to be going deaf.

            -Push stick type things: Keep your handy-dandy, good-for-life fingerling digits away from the spinning blades of doom and amputation. At the very least, imaging how much scrubbing you'd have to do to get dried blood off your blade's teeth to prevent staining some nice curly Bird's-eye maple! As an aside, this is even more improtant with routers. A saw-severed finger might be reattached, albeit 1/8" short or so. But a router-mangled finger is.. umm.. mangled.. for good. Maybe some girl/boy friend will thing your classic Roman profile shaped thumb is cool... maybe not. ;-)

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