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T4330 Ridgid Planner and SNIPE

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  • T4330 Ridgid Planner and SNIPE

    I have been very unsuccessful at eliminating snipe on my Ridgid planner. actually I have made it worse at times.
    This is really holding up my projects. Any help would be great!!!

  • #2
    Re: T4330 Ridgid Planner and SNIPE

    All planers are subject to some snipe. Typically at the ends of the boards is worst. It really depends on the type of wood you're putting through it. Wild-grain woods like figured maples and burles are going to be impossible to plane.

    Make sure the ends of the feed tables are even with the main table. The end nearest the main table can be a tiny bit lower, and it's actually better that way. To eliminate the snipe at the end of the board, run your next board through butted up to the first. Watch the grain orientation closely. make sure the grain is "running away" from the feed direction. i.e., the grain should be going towards you as you feed the piece in. Take small amounts at a time. I find with some woods, I have to work on 1/64th at a time. Make sure the chips are completely being eliminated from the tool as you use it. Use a good vac or cyclone dust collector to help pull out the waste. The small chips that fly back under and around the wood as it's going through can cause lots of problems.

    I hope something in there will help you!
    I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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    • #3
      Re: T4330 Ridgid Planner and SNIPE

      Sorry Sandy, you missed it. The infeed/outfeed tables need to be exactly even with the main platen of the planer. The outside edge of the tables should be slightly higher. Any board over 4 ft in length should have additional support to hold it like roller stands. The reason for raising the outside edges is to allow for flexing from the weight of the board. With proper setup and support, any planer can be snipe free, without, any can have so much snipe the boards are not usable.
      info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

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      • #4
        Re: T4330 Ridgid Planner and SNIPE

        There are several webpages that discuss snipe (with nice pics to explain the causes) and several reasons for it, and some potential solutions.
        http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...n=Custom&ID=67
        http://www.woodezine.com/08_2004/0804_snipe.html
        http://www.woodworkingmatters.com/My...laner_sled.htm
        Expanding on what Sandy Said:
        1) The end of the boards lifts off the table and into the cutterhead when not engaged by both rollers. This can be managed by lifting slightly on the end of the board as it enters, exits, adjusting the infeed/outfeed tables to be level or slightly up at the ends, or building a longer infeed/outfeed table (as in the second and third link).
        2) The cutter head flops about. This really does happen on my cheapie delta. When the board first enters the planer an upwards force is exerted on the cutter head from the first roller. This lifts the cutter head slightly. When the second roller engages the wood, it doubles the upwards force (along with some twisting, etc) lifting the cutter head even more, hence a deeper cut on the first few inches in and out. This is the reason for cutter head locks. I believe the Ridgid planers are not susceptible to this problem, even without a lock but you should check yours. It may be defective or need adjustment. Place a long board in the planer (turned off) and leaver up on one of the rollers. Only the spring loaded roller should move. On mine the whole cutter head flexes and moves. If I need to plane right to the ends, I make up a sacrificial piece of pine to feed in ahead of and behind (and ensure boards are fed butted against each other) to ensure uniform pressure on the rollers all of the way through. For the most part this has eliminated snipe on my planer. The second link uses long runners beside the board to do the same thing, unsure there is upwards force on both rollers before the piece gets in.
        Last edited by tpwade; 03-18-2008, 11:46 AM.

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        • #5
          Re: T4330 Ridgid Planner and SNIPE

          Thanks to all who have replied. I have a 4 day weekend this week and my priority is the planner. I will put your ideas to work.

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          • #6
            Re: T4330 Ridgid Planner and SNIPE

            Butting boards end to end will not do anything to help or prevent snipe. The ends will still kick up at start and finish if not supported. You can help a lot if you overlap the boards as you feed them in, but that means you can't plane as wide of boards because of running side by side. and they still need support from sagging on the ends. I would not use a machine if the cutter head flexes up and down, the cutter head lock on the Ridgid and others is to prevent vibration from causeing the screw adjuster of the head from moving. If yours is actually flexing up and down in any way then something is worn out or broken and should be repaired before continued usage.
            info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: T4330 Ridgid Planner and SNIPE

              Originally posted by papadan View Post
              Sorry Sandy, you missed it. The infeed/outfeed tables need to be exactly even with the main platen of the planer. The outside edge of the tables should be slightly higher. Any board over 4 ft in length should have additional support to hold it like roller stands. The reason for raising the outside edges is to allow for flexing from the weight of the board. With proper setup and support, any planer can be snipe free, without, any can have so much snipe the boards are not usable.
              Thanks, papadan! I hate giving bad info....looks like I've been misled on a couple things. I'll have to check my planer and see how the tables are set. I thank you for correcting me.
              I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

              Comment

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