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TS3660 Splitter/Guard Question

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  • TS3660 Splitter/Guard Question

    Hey Guys,

    I just started putting my saw to use this weekend. I am trying to be as safe as possible and use the splitter/guard. One problem - my pieces won't go past the splitter!!

    They keep getting stuck - I was cross cutting pieces and couldn't get through the splitter - this scared the crap out me because I didn't want to force the piece through or let go of it while the saw was running - luckily I can "knee" the switch off.

    What am I doing wrong? I thought i had the splitter properly aligned - I guess I need to recheck it - any other thoughts/tips/advice? Do I need to wax the splitter??

    Also, when is the "right" time to work without the guard - I was thinking that it was only appropriate for ripping small pieces - is this correct?

    Help always appreciated!

  • #2
    Re: TS3660 Splitter/Guard Question

    Yep, you definately need to recheck the alignment. Misalignment is the only reason I can think of for what you're experiencing. Waxing the spliter certainly wouldn't hurt.

    IMO, the only right time to work without the guard/splitter is when your make dado cuts or any other partial depth cut.
    I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.


    • #3
      Re: TS3660 Splitter/Guard Question

      Lining up the splitter is always a bit tricky, from my experience. I think the last time I did it, I worked on it for a good hour at least. I have to use two reliable straight edges to get the alignment just right. The last time I did the alignment I also had to adjust the verticle so I had to remove the splitter and bend it a bit to get it right at 90 up and down. Once that was done, I put the splitter on and loosely attached with the 3 bolts. I unplugged the saw for the alignment step. Then I put the two long straight-edges against the blade. Holding these two against the blade, I was able to get the splitter bolted down straight and in line with the blade. I start with the middle bolt and tighten that one to where the splitter won't move and check the alignment again. By that time, the straight edges have been jostled out of position so I have to recheck before tightening the back bolt and then the front one. To test the alignment I'll use a scrap (long) piece of 2x4 to make sure it'll pass the splitter without hitting it.

      I've tried all kinds of tricky things to get the splitter lined up. Laser (for me) didn't work!! Now that it's straight, I can take off the splitter and guard and put them back on and they stay lined up perfectly. Once done, you shouldn't have to repeat the steps. I use my splitter and guard at every possible opportunity, which means the only time I take them off is if I'm using a dado set. There have been some times when crosscutting using a sled that I can't have the guard on, but these days I try to crosscut with a good miter gauge so I can keep the guard on.
      I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.


      • #4
        Re: TS3660 Splitter/Guard Question

        If all else has failed you may want to try this:

        Tools/Materials needed:
        12 MM boxend wrench
        10 MM boxend wrench
        #4 metric or 5/32" allen wrench (either should fit)
        2 pieces of straight wood: 3 to 3 1/2"wide, by 20" or more long, by 3/4 minimum thickness. Straight here pertains to the wide face.
        2 clamps with capacity to clamp double board + blade thckness (Quick clamps are better than spring clamps, but strong spring clamps will work.)

        Note: All operations with saw unplugged from power source, blade installed and raised/locked at maximum height

        1. Install splitter and tighten the thumbscrew.
        2. Raise the anti-kickback pawls all the way up and prop them open with a pencil, etc under them over the top of the splitter.
        3. Clamp boards on edge to sides of blade with aft end extending at least to back end of splittler. Clamping over blade teeth area is preferred. Do not clamp on splitter.
        4. Loosen the two 10MM bolts on the splitter blade and the two 12 MM bolts holding the Blade Guard support to the cradle. Barely loosen the allen-type set screw located beneath the splitter thumbscrew.
        Note: You may have to open the pulley guard and remove the belt from the pulleys to access the 12 MM bolts with the wrench.
        5. Tighten the 10 MM bolts first.
        6. Tighten the allen set screw second
        7. Tighten the 12 MM bolts third.
        8. Loosen the clamps, and see if the spreader appears to be correctly aligned. If it "springs out" in front or back, retighten clamps and reloosen the 10 MM bolts and the set screw. (not the 12 MM bolts). Retighten the 10MM bolts and then the set screw.

        If the spreader continues to spring out of alignment, it is probably warped or bent more than the width of the blade. Remove it and straighten as necessary using a block of wood and a small hammer or mallet. If it just springs out at the top (to the left or right of the blade) the problem is that the tab on the bottom that the 10MM bolts go through is no longer at 90 degrees, and exceeds the movement allowed by loosening the 12 MM bolts. In this case, clamp the splitter to a square piece of wood and realign the tab using the mallet. Reinstall, and repeat operation from step 1.

        9. Reinstall belt onto pulleys and double check that it is fully on both pulleys. Close pulley cover.

        Comments: This method aligns the splitter fully to the blade, even if the blade is not set exactly vertical. It really isn't as complicated as it appears in writing. You are holding the splitter in alignment with the blade while you tighten the adjustments working away from the blade. It works for me and only takes about 5 minutes if all goes well the first time. Beings my splitter has been known to jump off whatever bench I set it on when doing dados, etc, I have had to do a bit of straightening a time or two which takes a bit longer, but it quickly identifies the problem.

        My saw is the 3650, but think it will work on the ''60 as well. Hope this helps

        Last edited by Gofor; 05-12-2008, 06:56 PM.
        Practicing at practical wood working


        • #5
          Re: TS3660 Splitter/Guard Question

          Hmmm... I've been doing something different. I use the fence to align the splitter by pushing the fence to the blade (blade all the way up- and saw unplugged obviously) and then pushing the splitter against the fence after loosening up the two 10mm screws that are in the slots where the splitter meets the lower assembly. This aligns the splitter to the right side of the blade. Could also put a piece of paper between the splitter and fence to have it more centered.

          While holding splitter to the fence, I retighten the 10mm screws and check to make sure splitter is aligned to right side of blade.

          Seems to work pretty well so far.