Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse

How To Post Images

Want to know the how to upload images to your posts? Image Posting Tutorial
See more
See less

Incra Systems

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Incra Systems

    I bought some Incra equipment a short time ago and it came with a tape proclaiming the virtues of their TS system as well as their router fence systems. Unfortunately I took the time to view this and now feel compelled to purchase a TS III with a right side router table and a wonder fence. Have any of you purchased any of these products or have any experience with them. The price tag for this combination surpasses the cost of the saw by 50% and that leaves me a little apprehensive. Any input on these products would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Woodslayer

  • #2


    It's a killer. Major downsides are (1) it takes up more space than comparable capacity fences (the adjusting bar protrudes out the right when opened) and (2) you have to find something else to blame when parts don't fit up right.

    The stock splitter and guard will not fit around the Incra rail. You can either split the back rail and mount to the saw table and right extension, or go with aftermarket like I've done.

    Dave

    Comment


    • #3
      Dave

      Thanks for the info, that’s an awesome system you have there. I hadn’t given the splitter and guard any thought and I definitely didn’t include a few extra hundred dollars in the financial equation for them. Do you think it would be possible to modify the stock guard by removing enough material to clear the rails and still maintain its structural integrity? I believe if I am going to make a commitment to this hobby that this is a worthwhile upgrade, I would just hate to look back in ten years and think about all the time and frustration I could have avoided if I had only bought the Incra system.

      Thanks again

      Woodslayer

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks! It's very enjoyable to use.

        Do you think it would be possible to modify the stock guard by removing enough material to clear the rails and still maintain its structural integrity?

        I don't even have to think about it, because I tried it! It gets realllly floppy after having removed all that material. If I ever sell this saw I'll have to buy a new splitter/guard assembly for it.

        Here's how to save a few bucks. Forget the WonderFence, I have one (from when it first came out), and it isn't worth the pricetag. Large bits can easily be accomodated with a couple shop-built blocks, the standard joinery package is $130 less than the WonderFence joinery package, setting the WonderFence halves dead even to each other is a trying task. Took me twenty minutes the last time I did, which is the last time I will do it.

        If you want to save even more, consider building your own table. The Incra mounts the table from the rails on L brackets, so there's nothing at all fancy about the table itself.

        One thing you definitely need, built or bought, is additional legs out under the router table. Without them, you can just about balance the saw on two legs.

        Dave

        Comment


        • #5
          Dave Arbuckle,
          Do you have a picture of your after market splitter and what brand is it???

          I would like to add one to mine very soon...
          Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

          Comment


          • #6
            It's an MBM, Big. If you aren't familiar, that "Made By Me".

            All it is, is a piece of wood carefully fitted and glued into the blade insert, having elongated the slot cut by the blade a little.

            It is pretty visible in this picture: http://users2.ev1.net/~arbuckle/ripping/taper2.jpg . I don't have anything that shows it specifically, let me know if you need a better picture and I'll shoot one.

            Dave

            Comment


            • #7
              I guess I understand... It must be made of a fairly hard piece of wood to be stiff and not get broken... If you ever get around to shooting pictures, I would be interested in seeing it closer but don't take the time just for me...

              I wonder if I could fabricate one out of sheet metal bent in an "L" at the bottom with slots to mount it so it could be adjustable from left to right to aligned with the blade... I could counter sink the mounting screws on the top side that would fasten to the homemade splitter... With your elongated ZCI it would work pretty slick... Hmmm, I might have to make a trip to the shop floor Monday at work and look in the scrap hopper for some 10ga. galv... It would need to be ground to the contour of the blade with max height clearance... What do you think???
              Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

              Comment


              • #8
                I've made them out of hard maple and mahogany, one has never let loose or broken. The grain runs, of course, vertically.

                Your idea with the metal is OK, I guess. I have a prejudice, I absolutely hate metalworking, so I'd vastly prefer make a wooden one to a metal one. Yours sounds a lot more complex than mine.

                Dave

                Comment


                • #9
                  *shakes head*

                  Anything above the blade is in my way. Never used a guard or spliter in my life. On occasion, I've used a window/door wedge if it was so bad to pinch the blade. But in most cases of ripping a mover (looks at the grain) feather boards holds everthing in place and a heavy push from a fat belly gets it through. If the saw can't handle it, then it shouldn't be done.

                  Just my 2 cents.
                  John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X