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  • Glass coffee table WIP

    Good day

    The title is glass table but, actually, I'm just changing the top according to the last order of SWMBO (ok, I also love to do it)...

    I built the table some 8 years ago while living in Japan.
    It's made of Lauan, 24" x 24" and stained 5 years later.
    .
    The top (frame) is Oak, 1¼" thick, 4" wide and 24½" x 24½", I'm using the same stain and hope that it will fit somehow to the stained Lauan.

    The design is that a plywood will sit inside the frame, and on top of the plywood, 1/4" glass.

    The finished table....on the next post...

    Regards
    niki













































  • #2
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    • #3
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      • #4
        Re: Glass coffee table WIP

        Niki,
        In the 5th picture, "Jointing to get the same width" your using the "spring bar" featherboards to keep the board against the outboard fence, right. I fully understand the setup. Most router table jointing is shown with a shimmed outboard fence as I'm sure you know. I couldn’t help thinking about the strength of the featherboards you used and the amount of pressure you set them up with. The reason I ask this is that, as your board touches the bit the force is to push it to the right and into the bit. That's where a normal "fence to the right" holds the board in place. Your spring bars look VERY substantial. How thick are they? Were you applying much force yourself to hold the boards against your fence? Also, where you getting any damage from the out feed spring bar?
        Jim

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        • #5
          Re: Glass coffee table WIP

          Hi Jim

          The Iron bars are 5/32" (4mm) thick and I set them so they'll protrude some 1/4" from the workpiece line.

          I know that this jointing method is not so acceptable because the workpiece is trapped between the fence and the bit but, I made it after I failed to get a good glue line with the conventional "Split fence" method that you mentioned......anyway, I'm removing some 0.004"~008" (0.1~0.2mm) at every pass and this method gives me also a very consistent width of the boards when needed as for the case of making a frame.

          I rounded-over the edge of both bars so it will be easier to push the workpiece through.

          And for the rest of your questions....and much more - please have a look at this post
          http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15782

          Regards
          niki

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          • #6
            Re: Glass coffee table WIP

            Thanks niki,
            I really like the fact that a consistant width can be achieved for each board. The minor cuts, double length fence and long table support are good points to remember. Can I assume that you switched from wood to iron bars for a higher strenght against the bit forces from the safety standpoint?
            Jim

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            • #7
              Re: Glass coffee table WIP

              Originally posted by JJCiesla View Post
              The minor cuts, double length fence and long table support are good points to remember. Can I assume that you switched from wood to iron bars for a higher strenght against the bit forces from the safety standpoint?
              Yes you are correct.

              The wooden ones were just for the test of the idea and they were ok but still...wooden and I wanted something more "rigid" just to be on the safe side.

              When I'm "jointing", I'm standing behind the aluminum straight edge and the additional fence, is a very good guard against "kickback" (even though, I did not feel any tendency to kickback), covers the bit and makes the setting for the next board fast and easy.

              As for the long table support, I made this "Adjustable height table", you can see it here
              http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17914

              On the pictures, I'm cutting a mortise in an 87" long boards...long support table is a must...
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              Regards
              niki

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