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  • binding in maple.....

    hiya guys,
    been very busy, but do get in a hour or so hear and there to play with me wood tools .
    Now I am trying to cut some maple 1 7/8 thick by 6 1/4 wide, 24 1/4 long, in half. I set the guide to about 3 1/8th and start the cut the blade is fully up . I get in about 8 inches and I start to experience binding and some burning, to the point that the circuit breaker jumps out.... the one in the breaker panel.
    Then I have to fight with the saw to get my piece of wood off the blade....the blade is a fusion 40t
    I have checked that the blade is paralell to the mitre slot.and the blade is at 90°
    §m€llŸ™

  • #2
    Re: binding in maple.....

    Check the horizontal AND vertical alignment of the splitter. I had some problems with mine the first time I did some really thick wood. Had to take the splitter to the metal anvil and hammer the bend angle to a true 90. I got it close, and for the rest of it, I used some thin washers as shims near the bolt holes (as mine was angled towards the bolt holes). It's much better now, even with really thick (around 2" and more) wood.

    Hope that helps!
    I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: binding in maple.....

      I had some similar binding with 2in alder. I had two problems. One was the wood. It was rustic alder with lots of knots. As I cut the wood, it simply "moved" slightly and grabbed the blade. The second issue was that the wood was not absolutly flat, but had a very slight twist - it was a large peice and I didn;t face joint it properly.

      Good luck.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: binding in maple.....

        heheh I was doing this with out the splitter on
        §m€llŸ™

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: binding in maple.....

          Sounds like DW has the answer then.

          And it sounds like you've got hate issues with your fingers??? I know lots don't use the splitter and guard...maybe I'm just weird. I like push sticks and guards and splitters and...I really REALLY like having all my fingers...and not having odd holes in me with wood sticking out of them. If it's safer for you to do w/out the splitter, then by all means. I just can't imagine how...but then again, I'm pretty new to all this. I take the splitter off and put it back on regularly. Once it's aligned, it can be removed and re-installed easily without messing up the alignment.
          I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: binding in maple.....

            I usually try to cut maple as quickly as possible because it's dense and wants to heat up very quickly which in turn heats up the cutting tool. Did a small maple piece in my drum sander yesterday. The feed speed was a lillte slow and it burned. Next pass was 10% faster and it was ok.
            Jim

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: binding in maple.....

              Originally posted by smelly View Post
              heheh I was doing this with out the splitter on
              That's probably your problem. You're releasing tension in the wood and the kerf is closing after you've made the cut. Using a splitter should alleviate the problem.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: binding in maple.....

                Originally posted by rnt80 View Post
                That's probably your problem. You're releasing tension in the wood and the kerf is closing after you've made the cut. Using a splitter should alleviate the problem.
                I agree with this. Also a nice investment is a moisture reader.
                Great Link for a Construction Owner/Tradesmen, and just say Garager sent you....

                http://www.contractorspub.com

                A good climbing rope will last you 3 to 5 years, a bad climbing rope will last you a life time !!!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: binding in maple.....

                  ah ok guys, thanks for the response, I will put the guide bk on took it off because I was doing some low proile dado cuts to some small pieces.
                  I agree with theheating blade idea, I was trying to go slow so as to give the blade a easy go , I will try going a bit faster

                  §m€llŸ™

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: binding in maple.....

                    I would also look into a true "ripping" blade. With dense and think material you would be better off with a 24 tooth FTG style blade, especially with a lower powered saw.
                    Even if other things are not "optimal", the saw may be able to "bull-dog" through with a blade more suited to the task. The right blade for the task is as much of a safety factor as many others....it's just overlooked as such.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: binding in maple.....

                      Maybe a bandsaw would help. Cut it close to your width and then use your table saw for the final 1/4 inch cut. If the wood is releasing tension and closing tap small wedges into the kerf. That will hold it open.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: binding in maple.....

                        ya well I think the problem will be corrected with a true ripping blade, because the wood is very dry and trying to stick a wedge in while cutting is looking for trouble.........



                        every application has its blade......
                        §m€llŸ™

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: binding in maple.....

                          I meant to tap wedges into the kerf when the initial cut was made on the bandsaw as I suggested. I should have been more clear. Sorry.

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