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Edge joining

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  • Edge joining

    Want to know if when edge joining pine or any other wood for that matter. say 1x6x8 pine. Should I belt sand the edges flat or use an orbital sander or both.

    I'm hoping I wont have to do too much of this if I get nice straight wood but I have a feeling that wont happen. Especially with pine. Any hints on what grade of wood to use? Its for a toychest so its not a pristine finish piece. THe plans show knotty pine or something close to that. I dont want to spend a fortune on the wood. Low budget these days.

  • #2
    Try to get a nice clean cut edge with your table saw if a jointer is not available to you. I have had great luck that way and using biscuits for alignment. You local lumber yard may be able to mill the edge for a nominal sum if you are buying lumber from them.


    • #3
      I flatter myself as being pretty good with a beltsander, but I wouldn't try edging with one.

      You should be getting a reasonably smooth cut. If not, either your tuneup or your blade need revisiting.

      For a final smoothing, clamp the two mating boards together, so instead of 3/4" wide they are 1 1/2" wide. Take some care to get them dead even with each other. Take a couple light passes with a sanding block at 120 grit, using long strokes.

      Then comes the clamping. I'm not sure where it started, but there's this bit of bad advice that circles around, that you shouldn't use much clamping force. Crapola, that is. Clamp them good and hard, if you're using standard woodworking clamps you can't hardly overclamp them. If fact with Pine, you'll crush the outer edges before you put too much pressure on the joint. Titebond recommends 100-150 pounds per square inch clamping pressure for softwoods, up to 250 for hardwoods, for all their standard woodworking glues.



      • #4
        Sorry if this is too late, but I recently used the cut and flip method on a table top and it worked great.

        To do this:
        1. Layout the pieces for the top as you want them.
        2. Mark them clearly
        3. Rip the first piece (removing only a small amount of stock) face up.
        4. Rip both edges of the next piece face down.
        5. Repeat this for each piece you're gluing up.

        By doing this, you correct for any angle that your saw blade has.

        Whatever you do, let us know how it turns out! I'm always looking for ways around buying a jointer


        • #5
          I make alot of hopechests and the tablesaw does a great job edging a board.My tablesaw must be tuned up pretty well because I very seldom have to re-edge a board.When I glue them together I make sure I put glue on both boards that is being glued together. Make sure the entire surface has glue on it.When the two are put together glue will ease out of the seam but that is normal.Use a damp sponge to wipe away the excess glue.When it dries sand the board with a belt or orbital sander.
          If you would like to use a bisquet jointer but don't have one look around at your local pawn shop.You can usually pick one up fairly cheep. I paid 75.00 for mine and it was almost new.You should be able to find one for about 40.00. It's well worth the money... Donny


          • #6
            Thanks for the advice. I do have a biscuit joiner so that will help. I got some good advice on makeing sure the edges join too.

            For each board that is to be joined, hot glue a 2x4 across to dry fit them together and then feed through the TS where they meet. THis will make the edges fit since it would be like a cut was made. Do the same for each piece being used.


            • #7
              That will only work if the runout of the combined edges are less than the kerf of your blade, that would be an eighth inch in my case.

              If that hot melt lets loose, be durned sure you aren't in the way of the flying board.

              I dislike slamming anyone's technique, there certainly are a lot more things I don't know than I know, but you couldn't pay me to do this. It is a take-off of a common procedure performed with a hand-held router, which doesn't have the kickback issues a tablesaw does.

              Work safe,


              • #8
                I'm not in the same league with the rest of these guys, but for what it is worth:

                I wouldn't waste the time trying to true up the edge of a board with a sander, any sander. I don't own a jointer, but I have had amazing luck doing the same thing with a power planer and an edge guide.