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13" planer

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  • 13" planer

    I've recently bought a Ridgid 13" planer and am very happy with it. One thing, it appears that I'm getting machine marks on the surface of the wood. They do sand out, but it would be nice if they weren't there. Is there anyway to eliminate them?
    ps the wood was red oak

    Thanks
    SteveP

  • #2
    Steve,
    Hard to say for sure, It could be a couple of things.

    First: Make sure that you are not planing againt grain. If you do this, you will get tear out.

    Second: Make sure that the blades are sharp and that there are not any knicks in the blades. If the blades are knicked, you might be able to offset the knicks to the left and right to cancel them out. If they are to big, you will have to replace the blades.

    Third: Make sure that the final passes are very shallow. I usually make the final passes between 1/'64th and 1/32nd. this usually works pretty well, leaving the need for only minor sanding to get the final finish.

    Hope this information is helpful
    -Rob<br /> <a href=\"http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/</a> <br />Damn, I hit the wrong nail again. Ouch that hurts

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    • #3
      Cross-grain machining marks are the hallmark of any planer. The cutterhead uses a rotary motion, no way out.

      Some people conjecture that higher cuts per inch will eliminate the problem. Nope, just makes it a bit less noticable. My planer runs 110 cuts per inch, if I recall correctly. Still, the surface is not suitable to this picky woodworker.

      Dave

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      • #4
        Dave,
        If the cross grain marks are a planer fact of life, would scraping be better than sanding?

        Thanks

        SteveP

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        • #5
          For removing the marks? Whatever makes you happy, kind of.

          Using a card scraper to remove those marks is durn near impossible, in my experience. The scraper just follows the existing dips and sort of rounds them over.

          A cabinet scraper does a respectable job, but tends to leave shallow waves along the grain (assuming a Stanley #80 type).

          But, either of those will at least begin the job of removing the marks much more quickly than sandpaper. When I want a dead flat surface, sandpaper is the last of several steps.

          Dave

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          • #6
            if the marks are within a few 100ths of each other and absolutely repeatable, it's just machining marks and you can remove them any way you like. If they are not consistent, however, try this: remove your blades and inspect them. If you don't see any obvious nicks, hone them on a piece of plate glass with 240 paper, then go to 400, 600, and finally 1500 grit. The blade surface will be like a mirror. Make sure you follow the origanal bevel angle. This works great for me.
            He who dies with the most power tools wins!

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