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  • i feel silly asking this

    i was a concrete black wall in my basement i was thinking of putting up a pegboard over my work bench. my question what is the best way for ,e to do this.....any input is much appreciated

  • #2
    Re: i feel silly asking this

    Hi Atlassdrain. I have a similar situation in my shop. Concrete basement walls. I rough-framed a 2x4 stud wall system from the floor to the ceiling behind my workbench. The bottom plate is pressure-treated so it meets code, since the basement floor is concrete. This is just in case I finish the basement at some point in the future. I nailed the top plate into the bottoms of the ceiling joists. I haven't attached the bottom plate yet. I made the wall piece so that it's pretty tight against the wall and ceiling, plus it's got the weight of the workbench against it. It's pretty solid! Now I can hang anything I want, and run electric where I need since I can staple the romex to the 2x4's. Doing this, you could easily attach the pegboard.

    You could also do a frame of 2x4's from the top of your workbench to the ceiling. This would probably be easiest. Since pegboard attachments require some space in the back, you can't just tapcon the pegboard to the wall. You need to frame out a little bit, and 2x4's aren't too pricey. Rough frame 2x4's don't have to be clear, since it's not really a structural wall. You can have some knots. Pay attention to the crown (the slight bend in the 2x4) when you're framing. I put mine so the slight crown is towards the brick wall. Since the fame elements are tight to the brick, that stops the crown from getting any worse.

    I've attached a picture that shows the wall and the workbench in front of it (along with a bunch of other stuff!). You can see I use the 2x4 wall to hang lots of things.
    Attached Files
    I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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    • #3
      Re: i feel silly asking this

      Another solution may be building a shallow frame, much like a picture frame, for the peg board. You can use strapping wood (pine) which is about 5/8" thick and that is enough for the space behind the peg board to insert the pegs.

      At HD they sell 1 1/2" strapping for $1.00 (+/-) for an 8 foot piece. At this price you could go wild and get 2 1/2" boards to make a frame the size of your peg board. Glue and screw the board to the surface of the board. The structure may not feel very rigid, but it will be once you attach it to the wall.

      To attach this to the concrete wall you may look into one of these:

      1. - shoot a few concrete nails into through the edge of the frame and into the wall. 1 to 1 1/4" long ones will do. Pick low powered powder cartridges. Otherwise the nail will go through the board and the wood. Using metal washers to stop the nail from penetrating to deep will work if you have only high power cartridges. It might be a good idea to use the washers for the low powered ones too though.
      2. - drill narrow holes for self anchoring concrete screws. 2" + would probably be my choice.

      There are more options (anchors, glue etc) but those are either more labor (and cost intensive) or too hard to remove if you have to (glue)

      To make sure there is sufficient support for the weight (we're dealing mostly with sheering forces here), for a 4' by 8' peg board I would use 3 fasteners for each vertical edge, and two for each horizontal edge. I would also be likely to make the frame of two horizontal and 3 vertical pieces of strapping, such as this (dots use only to space the pieces out):

      ------------------
      |........... |......... |
      |........... |......... |
      ------------------
      In order to understand recursion, one must first understand recursion.

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      • #4
        Re: i feel silly asking this

        Attaching into the top plate or the above floor, is the solidest way to go, if you think you need the space go flat to the wall with 2x, you will want some space behind the peg board any way or you will not be able to get the hooks in, I would suggest the plastic up behind as well, to keep moisture from warping the peg board, If you want insulate that section as well, you may want to do the entire wall, build a wall section, with a top and bottom plate, make a slight amount shorter, so you can tilt it in, with out beating it to death, Then fasten the top to the floor joists or the sill plate, and then anchor the bottom plate to floor in few places.
        Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
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