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  • TS2424 Fence Rails Slid To 3612 also Flip Top Stands

    Finally got my Ridgid TS2424LS fence rails slid to the right and the spreader bar and new tape installed...
    Pictures: http://community.webshots.com/album/59090751dOXtlv
    It was really pretty painless... It feels like having a new saw... It was well worth the $20 some dollars... I would like to build a small table for the right side to better fill the gap, or maybe a Dave Arbuckle style router table...

    I also got my Ridgid Flip Top Stands setup and ready for use... I think they will work very nice...
    Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

  • #2
    Nice job BIG.

    Have any hassles moving the bolt hole on the left?

    rick
    <a href=\"http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx\" target=\"_blank\">http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx</a>

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    • #3
      RixWorx,
      Actually, I haven't drilled a hole in the left side yet. I was going too only if it were necessary. Maybe Jake can give some input if this needs to be done or not... The front and rear rails feel sturdy enough. I don't think I have ever used the left side anyway. Not sure I ever will...

      By the way, I really like the rear table extension you made for your TS2424... It looks very good... I may add something similar to mine... You have got to have these things when you’re a one man band... I may ask you for some additional details down the road if you don't mind...
      Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

      Comment


      • #4
        Rix,
        That is a NICE outfeed table. It looks as though you used angle iron to attach. Is this correct? I am getting ready to buid an out feed and yours has to be the best I've seen. Is it bolted to the side of the cabinet, welded to the cast wings, ect...? Thanks in advance.
        Justin

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        • #5
          I think the plan for the outfeed table is the same as the plans on http://www.woodonline.com. I don't have the exact URL but I ordered the plans (around $5) and it actually uses a 2424 as the base for the table.

          I'm getting ready to build one myself.

          Michael

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          • #6
            Rick's outfeed table does look like the one from the Wood plans. I built the same one for my 3612 a couple of weeks ago and it is a huge improvement in usability and safety IME.

            [ 12-31-2002, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: Stuart H ]

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            • #7
              Big Johnson, I barely started working on a side table, but I have been interrupted by more pressing projects. In the mean time I had been looking at doing what you have done by ordering the spreader bar "assembly" from the "Retro-Rip" fence. What parts did you need to order?
              Mark

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              • #8
                MarkR,
                The parts you will need to retrofit your saw from a 24"x24" to 36"x12" are as follows:
                1.) Qty.1, Rod Support. (827583)
                2.) Qty.2, Plate Support. (827585)
                3.) Qty.2, Screw, Socket Set 10-32 x 7/16. (141669-35)
                4.) Qty.7, Washer Shim. (818309)
                5.) Qty.1, Tape, Fence 12" Right. (829967)
                6.) Qty.1, Tape, Fence 36" Left. (829698)

                You can see the listed parts by clicking this link: http://www.ridgidparts.com/pdf/TS36120.pdf and looking at page 72 & 73, items 25, 41, 45, 46, 47, and 48...

                You will also want to look at and print pages 30 through 35 for reference when installing...

                I put the new tapes on by first marking with a very sharp pencil the left end and the right end of the old tapes, then peeling them off... I first placed the new tape on top the existing to be sure they started and stopped the same...
                It calls out in the manual that the fence should line up with the 7-3/8" mark on the right rip scale with the edge of the cast-iron table top, not the extension. I couldn't top exactly maintain this while the fence was at zero. So I adjusted it so that my indicator on my fence read zero and didn't worry much about the 7-3/8", to my saws 7-1/8", 1/4" variance... You will probably see what I mean when you get to that point. I have plenty of fence travel in both directions to get my 12" x 36" plus a scoosh more...

                Hope this helps... There may be better ways to do it...
                Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

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                • #9
                  Big Johnson...
                  Thaks for the kind words. Let me know if you have any questions.

                  jdeardor.....

                  Yes it is angle iron and it is bolted through the wings. There is a 1/8" bar stock on top of the wing that fits in the portion that is lower than the table top with a 1" spacer (hardwood) between the webs.

                  ba-doyn.....

                  You win the $64,000 question by being the first to identify it as the plans from wood. The direct link to the plan is http://woodstore.woodmall.com/tabouttab.html and the downloaded version is $5.95.

                  Stuart H.....

                  You are right, it is a HUGE improvement to productivity and safety.

                  Thanks y'all
                  Rick
                  <a href=\"http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx\" target=\"_blank\">http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx</a>

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Big Johnson, thanks for the info.

                    I have looked at that drawing, but I thought that I would make sure that I don't missing anything. I would hate to miss out on 1 part and have to wait several days to get it!
                    Mark

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                    • #11
                      MarkR, If you plan on adding a table to the right side right away, you would only need to order the tapes and some shims. the support bar and set screws only keep the rails from collapsing toward each other when the fence is locked down all the way out.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Guy's,
                        I just finally figured out why I had the slight controversy with the 7-3/8" alignment to my saw's 7-1/8" from the front rail scale to the right table edge as mentioned above.
                        There is a difference from the TS2424 manual to the TS3612 manual.

                        The TS2424 manual calls out for the measurement of 7-1/8" from the right tape scale to the right table edge. See page 26 through 29 for this info: http://www.ridgidparts.com/pdf/TS24240.pdf ... This is also the same measurement for the AC1036 Retro Rip Fence: http://www.ridgidparts.com/pdf/AC1036.pdf per page 14 to 19.

                        The TS3612 fence which is heavier than the TS2424 fence has a measurement of 7-3/8" from the right scale to the right edge of the fence per there manual: http://www.ridgidparts.com/pdf/TS36120.pdf one pages 30-35...

                        The moral of the story is, the fence on the TS3612 must be 1/4" or more longer than that of the TS2424... No big deal really, but I thought I goofed up but actually did it just right. Yaaaa... [img]smile.gif[/img]

                        To cut to the chase, I would use the manual for the AC1036 Retro Fit Rip Fence if doing this task again on my TS2424 and by the way don’t forget you can adjust the fence measurement sight glass to the right or left to get yourself perfect…

                        Sorry to be so windy... Hope this helps someone...

                        Happy New Year to all...
                        Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

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                        • #13
                          There is an error in the early TS3612 manual. The manual states the fence should be aligned at 7 3/8" when it should be 7 1/8"

                          Jake

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                          • #14
                            Say Jake,
                            You might want to fix your online manual: http://www.ridgidparts.com/pdf/TS36120.pdf ... That is where I found it... Thanks...
                            Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

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                            • #15
                              Re: TS2424 Fence Rails Slid To 3612 also Flip Top Stands

                              Big Johnson, I have said this a few times and will most likely say a few more before I get up from the keyboard but, I know this is an old post, but would you happen to have any images of your table saw as it is now ? (If you still have it) And if not do you have ANY way to re-post the images from way back when ?


                              Thank You,


                              Dan

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