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Just bought an Oscillating Edge Belt/Sander EB4424

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  • Just bought an Oscillating Edge Belt/Sander EB4424

    Hi folks. I just bought a Ridgid EB4424 Oscillating Edge Belt/sander. Wondering if anyone else has one and if so how do they like it? I just set it up tonight but have not used it yet. Have a happy new year!

  • #2
    I have the EB4424 and enjoy it very much. It fits a real need in my shop and fits it very well.

    Watch the start up. When I first turned mine on after setting it up the belt sander couldn't run the belt off the spindles fast enough. I would recommend that you have one hand on the tracking adjustment knob when you throw the switch the first time. That is the only problem I have ever had with the sander! If only every tool I had was so blessed.

    Enjoy using it and make sure to get a lot of diffent grit drums. I seem to run through them very quickly.

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    • #3
      Spowell covered quite well. I will add, when I change belts, or between spindle belts, I have a hand on the tracking knob, and a hand on the switch. I flip it on and off until I make sure the belt doesn't run down too far. Up is not so much of a problem, but down will tear up the edge of the belt, and the sanders housing.
      John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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      • #4
        Have had mine for a couple of months now, no problems at all. Like the others have stated be alert for drifting belt after changes. Took off some paint on the inner table surface the first time I started mine up. Keep your hand on the switch!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by UO_Woody:
          Spowell covered quite well. I will add, when I change belts, or between spindle belts, I have a hand on the tracking knob, and a hand on the switch. I flip it on and off until I make sure the belt doesn't run down too far. Up is not so much of a problem, but down will tear up the edge of the belt, and the sanders housing.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by UO_Woody:
            Spowell covered quite well. I will add, when I change belts, or between spindle belts, I have a hand on the tracking knob, and a hand on the switch. I flip it on and off until I make sure the belt doesn't run down too far. Up is not so much of a problem, but down will tear up the edge of the belt, and the sanders housing.
            Thanks for the information. It did help me set it up faster!

            [ 01-17-2004, 04:59 AM: Message edited by: 1Peacekeeper ]

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            • #7
              I have had mine about 3 years now and love it more everyday. There were a few things I learned along the way. The red insert that fits in when using spindles has set screws for bring it up to level with the tables. I noticed a couple of my friends had not adjusted theirs. Also stay away from sanding on the tracking end of the belt attachment. doing so for a prolonged time caused me to have to replace it. My fault by it was replaced at no cost to me. Mine has a flat area on the shaft with a matching flat area on the sanding belt attachment. You need to make sure these mo together when you put it on. Major trouble if you don't. Flat pry bar will lift it sometimes. I noticed the new ones don't have the flat. Good luck.

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              • #8
                Thanks for all the good information .I've used it now and think it's great. The adjustments to center the belt are a little sensitive though. It will take some getting use too.

                Now I think I'm in the market for a good Slider Mitre Saw. Any suggestions. I'm a weekend woodworker who will be building a basement rec room soon.

                Thanks.

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                • #9
                  I just want to add, as you utilize the sander, you will get into angling the table. The direct angle of presure, as well as the amount of presure at an angle to the belt will change it's tracking. Just something to be aware of.

                  I find my MS1060 all I need for a miter saw. But I have the Ridgid RAS. I keep a 60 or 80 tooth blade on it, and do nearly all my cross cuts with the RAS these days. I keep a Rip or Combo blade on the table saw and do the rips on that. It's much more user friendly that way than changing blades constantly, or extra time planning cuts to limit blade changes.

                  Unknowingly of your space available or budget, but if you can find a RAS for the sale price of $550 or less, I would recommend that over a Miter Saw. Miter saws are here... to stay and will always be readily available. You can'd do a cross cut Dado on a miter, but you can the RAS. And even at compound angles to boot!

                  Not that I prefer the RAS over the Miter Saw, but in the set up I have in my shop, it is certainly more accurate for precission work. If all your doing is framing, the miter would be a better choice. But RAS vs SCMS @ equal prices? IMO RAS, and go for a non slider miter for framing work.
                  John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the information John. You've given me more food for thought before I purchase. I'm not sure what I'll need more (MS or RAS). I have a large Cabinetmarkers table saw which I use for dados now but the RAS sounds like a more useful tool.

                    It looks like I'll be moving out of the basement and into the garage!

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                    • #11
                      I think John is right on target. I have a DeWalt RAS, a Makita slider, Dewalt dualbevel CMS, ts3650 and a bt3000 Rybobi that has a SMT. I do remodeling so I need portability so the RAS stays in the shop. I was going to sell the RAS but for x-cutting and dado it is great, and it is a real DeWalt made in Italy(not Yellow). I also am lazy and do not like changing blades. I would use the CSMS or RAS over the SMT anyday in x-cuts.

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                      • #12
                        John, I bought the Ryobi spindle sander but I have not opened the box. I am not to pleased with the latest in Ryobi, except the BT3K's Table saws. The price is over 2x more for the Ridgid. I already have a disk/belt sander. Do you think the Ridgid is worth the difference? The ryobi does not tilt as well.

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                        • #13
                          Not if you don't need the belt sander.

                          I would look into other table top spindle sander models. Also, look into longer spindles. I wish mine was 6" about 1/2 the time.
                          John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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                          • #14
                            Is a EB4424 (the older gray model) a good deal at $199.00 (new in box, not a display model)?

                            What were they originally, something like $349.00 ?

                            I am considering this against a 6" belt/12" disc sander. Which would be your choice is your shop only had room for one? Right now I'm leaning toward the belt/disc models.

                            [ 01-20-2004, 05:20 AM: Message edited by: Bob D. ]

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                            • #15
                              I've also just bought the EB4424 and have found all the comments very useful. I've forgotten how quick a belt can go astray when you first turn on any belt sander. Thanks for the great reminders. And one of the reasons I bought this sander was the ability to tip the table to other angles than 90 degrees. Thanks Woody for the insite when sanding with the table angled.

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