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TS3660 Rip Fence Alignment Issue...Help!!!

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  • TS3660 Rip Fence Alignment Issue...Help!!!

    Just joined the forum and I am pleased and thankful for all the tips and helpful advice that I have found thus far, now for the question:

    On page 22 in the operator's manual, it states that the front rail must be aligned with the rip fence at the "right edge" at 7 1/8''. After checking miter to blade alignment (X test) and the "8 page" test I found that when the rip fence is installed and set to a desired length of cut, it measures about 1/4'' too long. In other words a 12'' straight edge laid perpendicular to the fence and blade (including the blade width which is 1/16') measures more like 11 3/4'' not 12''.

    I feel that I should just move the front rail over and fix the problem but am unsure since this is what the manual calls for(and it is wwaaaayyyyy off.) Am I missing something? I have worked with table saws before but never assembled one. Is there a better way to achieve (adjust) an accurate measure out of the rip fence? (according to it's gauge and what you expect to see after the cut)

    All I'm saying is if I want to rip at x amount of inches, that's exactly what I want to get.

    ALSO...when the fence is set up correctly, does a dado blade use the same reference according to the rip fence scale? I figured the the scale would be the left blade point to cut....right??...and wouldn't a thicker blade throw alignment (according to scale) off.

    Any help would be great!!!

    Ty

  • #2
    Re: TS3660 Rip Fence Alignment Issue...Help!!!

    Originally posted by kinson View Post
    just joined the forum and i am pleased and thankful for all the tips and helpful advice that i have found thus far, now for the question:

    On page 22 in the operator's manual, it states that the front rail must be aligned with the rip fence at the "right edge" at 7 1/8''. After checking miter to blade alignment (x test) [saw blade alignment check on pg 22?] and the "8 page" test [are you referring to the rail height adjustment on pg 22?] i found that when the rip fence is installed and set to a desired length of cut, it measures about 1/4'' too long. In other words a 12'' straight edge laid perpendicular to the fence and blade (including the blade width which is 1/16') measures more like 11 3/4'' not 12''.

    my manual reads thus:
    "align the front rail with the 7-1/8 in. Mark on the right side
    rip scale with the right edge of the cast iron table top."
    but that is on pg 21, so maybe we are looking at different versions of the manual.

    i feel that i should just move the front rail over and fix the problem but am unsure since this is what the manual calls for(and it is wwaaaayyyyy off.) am i missing something? I have worked with table saws before but never assembled one. Is there a better way to achieve (adjust) an accurate measure out of the rip fence? (according to it's gauge and what you expect to see after the cut)

    how far is wwaaaayyyy off? 1/2"? ... 4"? Give us a measurement please. The only part of the equation that is not adjustable is the miter slot, so remember that is the standard that you must adjust the remaining components to to achieve accuracy.

    all i'm saying is if i want to rip at x amount of inches, that's exactly what i want to get.

    that's not asking too much, and you can have it. You just need to figure out where the error is which is causing the discrepancy. It's either in following (reading and comprehending) the alignment procedure or in the mechanics (physically making the adjustments) of performing the procedure, or its a manufacturing problem (something cut to the wrong length or the rail index mark is in the wrong place). I am not attacking your abilities, it's easy to get confused by manual instructions. Sometimes the translation from the original language is at fault. Sometimes there is an error in the text itself. Remember that each adjustment builds upon and is dependent upon the previous adjustment. If you start in the middle or skip a step then this will affect you overall accuracy.

    also...when the fence is set up correctly, does a dado blade use the same reference according to the rip fence scale? I figured the the scale would be the left blade point to cut....right??...and wouldn't a thicker blade throw alignment (according to scale) off.

    when changing blades there can be a difference caused by the variance in the blades' tooth width. This variance will show up on the left side of the blade and the right side. At first you might think it would be only one side, but the tooth width is wider than the blade and it is the blade that rests up against the arbor flange. That means the leftmost edge of the tooth (which is wider by a few thousandths) will vary slightly with different kerf width blades. When using a dado the same variance occurs for the left (or arbor) side of the blade. The right side of course is determined by whatever dado width you have selected from the stack of blades, chippers, and spacers. This is why the fence index window is adjustable ( see to adjust the rip fence indicator on pg 46).

    any help would be great!!!

    Ty
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    • #3
      Re: TS3660 Rip Fence Alignment Issue...Help!!!

      Originally posted by Bob D. View Post
      my manual reads thus:
      "align the front rail with the 7-1/8 in. Mark on the right side
      rip scale with the right edge of the cast iron table top."
      but that is on pg 21, so maybe we are looking at different versions of the manual.
      I think that's the critical piece of information. There should be a small red marker at the 7-1/8" point along the rail. Line that up with the right edge of the main cast iron top. This particular step threw me, too, when I was setting up my saw. I put mine together 4 years ago, and still remember this, so you can see that this particular item can be troublesome if you don't really carefully read the instructions. It took me about 3 reads through the manual to catch this one. And I actually make a point to READ instructions before doing this kind of thing (I'm a girl...I'm supposed to....)

      One point you mentioned that I wanted to address is about dados. When you're using a dado set, the rip fence measurement will be off. Use your straight-edge to get your measurements in this instance. It's handy to keep a 12" rule by the table saw, mainly for this kind of thing. I actually keep an adjustable square at the saw.

      I have a couple new blades for it that work much better than the stock blade. The Woodworker II is VERY nice, but pricey. The other blade I have is a Freud (can't remember the model #, sorry) that is exactly the same kerf (thickness) as the stock blade. Using the Freud blade means I can use the rail measurements from the rip fence as normal. I don't readjust for the WWII since I'm lazy, so when I use that blade I use my square for my cut lengths.

      Good luck with your new saw. I love my 3650 and it's been a very reliable tool. The fence is accurate and well made. It's got enough power to cut what I've wanted to cut (walnut, rock maple, hundred-year-old oak). Keep safety in mind at ALL times around the saw and you'll find it to be a tremendous helper.
      I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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      • #4
        Re: TS3660 Rip Fence Alignment Issue...Help!!!

        So after looking the manual over a few more times (both pg. 22...not 21 and the adjustments section), it appears that I was aligned at 7 1/16''. It must have been too late for me to realize this. That lets me know that that could be my finger "late at night", and there is no adjustments section for a mistake like that....well not in the Ridgid manual anyways. Maybe they could include it making the rail install on pg. 23.

        I'll definitely keep a rule by me when having to change blades...keeping in mind the kerf.

        Thanks everyone!!...now on to the motor install.

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        • #5
          Re: TS3660 Rip Fence Alignment Issue...Help!!!

          I always assumed that step of putting the 7-1/8" mark at the table edge was to give the assembler a good starting point for installing the rails. It saves you from being off by inches or more.

          The final step would be accurately setting the rail and fence cursor using a good ruler, referencing your blade. If you have to bump the rail a little to achieve this...no big thing.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: TS3660 Rip Fence Alignment Issue...Help!!!

            I just finished putting mine together and I got the 7 1/8 mark on the scale to the main top edge, but what thru me a little was the mark on the back guide for the rip fence. So I looked at the box for the picture and used the framing square like the manual says. The only thing I did was to recheck the marks a couple times to make sure it was correct.

            The big thing I would suggest is to take you time and recheck yourself a couple times. It took me 5 hours to put it together and I have not checked the blade tilt alignments yet.

            up date 9/16/08 I checked my blade at 90 degrees and it was right on and also at 45 degrees. Then I checked the rip fence measurements and it was off by a 1/4 inch to the left I was cutting a mark at 28 inches and it was 28 and 1/4. So I moved the little plastic guide with the line in it to the right and put it on 28 inches now it cuts right on the money.
            Last edited by bert304; 09-16-2008, 08:00 PM. Reason: update

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