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  • Ridgid 14" band saw

    Hey Guys, yesterday I picked up my new 14" Ridgid saw, model 14001 I think, for $410 HD price. I thought long and hard about this tool because I'm really interested in re-sawing lots. This tool represents a balance of the money I had to spend and the larger 20 and 24 inch tools. My question is have any of you had experience re-sawing with and without the riser blocks? Which rip fence did you buy or make? How did the saw track and what size blade did you use? Is the saw underpowered like I think it is for re-sawing 6 to 8 inch boards? What's your general opinion of the saw for this purpose?

    Thanks,

    Bruce

  • #2
    I don't think the saw is underpowered for 6 to 8 inch stock. The right blade can make all the difference. On 14" saws like the Ridgid I think a 1/2" hook tooth blade would do fine. 2 to 3 tpi. Decide now whether you want the riser block or not. Otherwise you collect blades that if you change later you won't be able to use with your new setup. HTH.

    Gregg

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    • #3
      Gregg,

      I have heard lots of other woodworkers on this forum say that the 14" group of band saws don't have the strength neccessary to properly tension a 1/2" blade.

      Thanks for the reply
      Bruce

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      • #4
        Bruce,

        The 1/2" blade should be no problem. It's the 3/4" blades that can sometimes pose tensioning issues. This is due to the 3/4" blade thickness over the 1/2". In Fine Woodworkings' first Tools & Shops issue the Ridgid had no problem tensioning to 15,000 psi with a 1/2" blade. HTH

        Gregg

        [ 01-27-2003, 09:44 PM: Message edited by: Gregg ]

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        • #5
          Bruce,

          I am new to woodworking so take this for what it is worth. I have had some experience using the band saw for resawing. I bought the 14001 back in early summer. I tried to resaw some cherry logs that a neighbor gave me. They were 8” thick. I did not have much luck. I was using the ridgid 1/2 in blade that I purchased at HD. The logs were hard to hold straight and the blade would jam. I tripped my breaker more times than I can count. I decided to get the riser block to see if that would help. The clearance was better but I still had the same problems. After reading an American Woodworker article on resawing, I decided to put it off till I could build a jig/sled and get a different blade before I caused any major damage.

          http://www.americanwoodworker.com/20...ain/index.html

          (They actually use the Ridgid band saw with the riser block.)

          Gregg has a valid point about the blades. “Decide now whether you want the riser block or not. Otherwise you collect blades that if you change later you won't be able to use with your new setup." If you get the riser block, you will need 105" blades if I remember correctly instead of the 93 1/2". You do not want to waste your money on blades you will never use like I did. Lots of posts have recommended this place here for blades. I will give it a try when I decide to tackle the rest of the logs.

          http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

          I also bought the Ridgid fence. It was one of the cheaper ones and I did not want to deal with getting a fence that did not fit. I believe the fence leaves a lot to be desired. Then again, this is my only experience with a band saw.

          One last thing. From what I have read, most 14" band saws have a problem with 3/4 blades. I have not tried it yet so I do not know what will happen.

          Good luck. (Sorry for the long post. I made it as short as possible)

          Rob

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