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Setting up the TS2424

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  • Setting up the TS2424

    I am setting up my new TS2424 and I wanted to ask if anyone else had to break the sharp edges on the lower side of the table and extensions. While I was moving the saw around to assemble it I got a good cut (papercut style) on my hand. When I felt around the edges of the table I could find a few spots that were almost razor sharp. A few minutes with a hand file and now I'm not afraid to reach under to move the saw.

    Great saw (so far), haven't got to the motor installation yet. I just got the blade, miter slot, fence aligned. The overall construction is very well done. Looks like I may have to upgrade the electrical service in the garage.

    Bradman (new woodwoker)

  • #2
    Welcome!

    The cast extensions do have sharp edges. That is a characteristic of cast iron. You 'safed' your saw well. I hope you enjoy your saw as much as the rest of us do!
    Mac<P>Problems are opportunities in disguise

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    • #3
      I have noticed recently that the top surface seems to be rusting slightly. I applied two coats of paste wax, it sure feels slippery. With all the setting up of the blade, fence, guard, I have been placing my hands on the top surface a lot. Can I just remove the discoloration with fine steel wool? Would I then have to reapply the wax? What can I do to prevent this?

      Thanks,
      Bradman

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      • #4
        Bradman--there are many, many "cures" for table saw rust---sort of like asking how to stop poison oak from itching Some use kerosene, paint thinnner, etc. and steel wool or Scotch-Brite pads (I prefer the latter). Last cleaning I used Simple Green, which BTW, does a great job on saw blade pitch as well.

        Anyway, cover your motor, remove insert and cover arbor, spray it on a section and either scrub with wool/pad or, use 220 wet/dry grit on a random orbital sander (you probably won't need the sander on a new saw). Clean off the residue with a dampened cloth---then lightly spray down the top with WD-40, wipe and let dry---then put on your coats of paste wax. I sure get great results with mine.
        Dave

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        • #5
          Thanks for the info.
          I finally got everything together and fired up the saw today. [img]smile.gif[/img] Didn't have time to cut anything, just wanted to make sure everything turned OK. The lights dimmed noticeably when the saw first started and then everything seemed to stabilize. I have an electrician coming out tomorrow to estimate a dedicated outlet for the saw (and potentially upgrade the whole house service $$).
          I did notice some vibration when the blade was spinning down, but when it was running it was very smooth. I'm sure I will enjoy many years with this new addition to our family.

          Bradman

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          • #6
            I have a workshop that only had a 20amp 120v 12 gauge line feeding it. My lights used to dim when I powered on my TS2424 tablesaw. I upgraded to a 40amp 220v 8 gauge line feeding the workshop. The circuit with my tablesaw is still only 20amp 120v but I no longer have any sign of dimming when I start it up. I figure the current draw on the small feed to my shop caused a sizeable voltage drop upon startup and therefore the dimming. Make sure the length from the circuit breaker box to your saw is minimized unless you have a larger gauge wire circuit to your saw. For example, most circuits are standard at 15amp using 14 gauge wire and appliance circuits are typically 20amp using 12 gauge wire. You might be able to go to a 30amp 10 gauge 120v circuit to compensate for the long distance to your saw to minimize dimming. The other option is to go to 220v. Ask your electrician for his recommendation (cost might also be an issue). Hope this helps.

            Ivan

            [ 07-16-2002, 11:38 AM: Message edited by: Ivan ]

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            • #7
              Hi Bradman

              Congratulations on your purchase.

              When I recieved my TS2424, the trunion was so far out of allignment I could not even place the insert over the blade and have it still fit in the hole. Obviously, it had been dropped. No problem, I just got a short piece of 2x4, loosened the trunion bolts and started banging until the blade was exactly square to the miter slot. Using a dial indicator, I was within .002, close enough.

              The one thing you can do with your new saw to improve it's performance for many years is to take the time to make sure your blade is as close as you can get it to exactly square to the miter slot. It's a bit of a pain because it will tend to move slighly every time you tighten the trunion bolts. Get this part right on, however, and your saw blades will last longer, you won't burn your stock and your cuts will look as good as any cabinet saw. It's that important, IMO. Take the time to get this one right and you'll love the saw for many years to come.

              The reason I bring this up is because my next door neighbor brought his home from home depot and his too was out of allignment, just not as bad as mine. It was enought so that almost every piece he tried to rip was burned on the inside edge, however. He was going to take it back to home depot thinking the saw was junk. After I helped him allign the blade properly, he wouldn't sell it for twice the price. Setup makes a big difference, give it the time it deserves and you will enjoy it for years to come [img]smile.gif[/img] .

              Cheers

              Art

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