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  • TS add-on poll

    I was wondering what all of you ole chippers find to be the most useful TS add-ons. Anything from a sacraficial fence face to ????? Include jigs such as sliding cut-off tables. I want to get cooking with the most useful stuff 1st on my 3650. TIA for the help,
    Chiz
    Later,
    Chiz

  • #2
    Ironhat: Probably the add on that I get the most use/satisfaction out of is and upgraded miter gauge.

    I purchased an Incra Model 2000 and haven't regretted it yet. IMHO it made the saw a true precision cutting instrument.

    Woodrat

    P.S. Did you get your arbor put on?

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    • #3
      I just ordered the arbor 2 wks ago with the warning, "I have noted in the computer that I have recommended that you take the saw to a service center for the modification. If you install it and anything is damaged you will void your warranty". Yawn! I've overhauled engines with little experience so I'm not too worried about a snap ring!
      Later,
      Chiz

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      • #4
        ZCI's, Incra miter gauge, crosscut sled, rabbeting fence, outfeed table, right side router table and leg set, DC enclosure, tenoning jig....

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        • #5
          There are so many things you can add to a TS to make it nicer, it's hard to pick the most usefull. For immediate improved results everytime you use the saw, I'd start by replacing the OEM blade.

          Other add-ons that will come in handy are;
          a. Outfeed table
          b. Angle finder
          c. Zero clearance inserts
          d. Magnetic bse w/dial indicator
          e. Pushstick
          f. Featherboard
          Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

          Comment


          • #6
            Anyone have Rockler's "SURE-LOC" MITER GAUGE ?? They claim it is the "Best miter gauge system on the market !" It is priced quite a bit lower than the Incra 2000, more in the range of the Incra 1000. But it appears you get more for your money from the Incra.

            For just a basic miter gauge, the one that now comes std. with the 3650 & 2400LS is a pretty solid piece compared to what used to come with the earlier Ridgid saws. If there was an adjustment like on the Rockler & Incra to eliminate the slop in the t-track, I'd be pretty happy with what I have.

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            • #7
              Aside from PUSHSTICK and FEATHERBOARD----please repeat 100 times.

              I'd add----panel cutter (costs almost no money to make).

              Something I don't see too often----double drawer case mounted under left wing. I did this ages ago, and can't begin to imagine the number of steps/time it has saved me. Basically a case, as tall as the flat side of the saw body, as long and as wide as the left wing. I installed two drawers (one from the front and one from the rear), and under them, have long storage for other accessories, such as tappering jig, push sticks, feather boards, etc. The front drawer has my wrench, piece of wood to hold blade, driver to adjust miter gauge, etc. Big time saver, since everything is right there where you need it.
              Dave

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              • #8
                Originally posted by dougmac: If there was an adjustment like on the Rockler & Incra to eliminate the slop in the t-track, I'd be pretty happy with what I have.
                To eliminate the slop use a prick punch or center punch to raise a series of small dimples along each side of the miter slot bar (about every 2"). If you make it too tight, just file the dimples a little. I think I found this tip in one of Kelly Mahler's books.
                Lorax
                "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06

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                • #9
                  Thanks Lorax ...

                  I had done exactly that years ago to eliminate slop between the bronze bushings and holes in the shifter arms of a Hurst shifter in a '69 Mustang. Looking back on it, I'd fix this differently today ... get bushings sized to fit the two parts !! But it was all my 18 yr. old brain could come up with at the time !!

                  The idea is much more suited for something like this miter slot bar !! However, I think it makes more sence to do it to just ONE side of the bar instead of both.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Good stuff - thanks!
                    B.Dave - I was going to hold off on a new blade until I get the new arbor shaft and a ZC throat plate. Why? I'm cheap!

                    daveferg - I'd bet that a lot of guys would like to see your undertable drawers. How did you mount those... to both the extension wing and the saw body? Why not have both of the drawers operable from the front? Yea, I've always used the pushsticks and never a featherboard but I've got to start... now!!

                    Lorax - same techcique is use to close the slide to rail tolerances on semi auto pistols of the 1911 family.

                    Dougmac - how is the adjustment made in the Rockler/Incra miters? Is it a longituinal slit with a threaded hole through the middle which expands the rail enough to provide a more snug fit? I'm ignorant!

                    Later,
                    Chiz
                    Later,
                    Chiz

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Well---the inside side is just stove-bolted to the side of the cabinet----the outside----I used flat (gusset/mending) plates they sell with construction hardware with a bolt thru the hole in the end of the wing and the other end to screwed to the case side. Reason I didn't locate both drawers on one side, wanted long storage shelf for things like feather boards, tappering jig---could just as well be done the other way.
                      Dave

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ironhat:
                        Good stuff - thanks!

                        Dougmac - how is the adjustment made in the Rockler/Incra miters? Is it a longituinal slit with a threaded hole through the middle which expands the rail enough to provide a more snug fit? I'm ignorant!

                        Later,
                        Chiz
                        This is only from what I can see in the catalog / online, I do not own either of these or have had the chance to study at a store in person ...

                        The Rockler has an upper & lower strip that are bolted together. I assume the upper strip has slots and the lower is threaded. If your table has a T-Slot (3650/2400LS), the lower strip fits in the lower slot (will also work on plain 3/4 x 3/8" slots).

                        The Incra appears to have some sort of expansion type screw adjustment, they don't go into detail.

                        Doug

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ironhat:
                          B.Dave - I was going to hold off on a new blade until I get the new arbor shaft and a ZC throat plate.
                          That's all well and good but you're kinda putting the cart before the horse when it comes to the ZCI if you're planning to buy one rather than make your own. Depending on what you select for your new blade, the kerf could be different than what you now have with the OEM blade. If the OEM blade is full kerf and you buy a thin kerf replacement blade, the end result would be that the insert would no longer be zero clearance. On the plus side, ZCI's are easy to make. If you make your own, make a bunch at a time then you'll always have a blank ready if you need one for different sized dado cuts.
                          Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yea, BD, that wouldn't be logical. I just ordered the arbor, I'll probably make a ZCI while waiting for the arbor and blade to get here. Sorry that I was unclear about that. I'm hoping to make some sort of adapter for the upper blade guard to attach a line for DC (the lower has one but I wish that they had vented it straight down or to the back). I thought that I'd split the 4" into two smaller ones - one for the top and one for the bottom blade guards.
                            Later,
                            Chiz
                            Later,
                            Chiz

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by ironhat: daveferg - I'd bet that a lot of guys would like to see your undertable drawers.
                              Chiz
                              I, for one, will pass on that!! [img]tongue.gif[/img]
                              Lorax
                              "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06

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