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Ridgid R4511 availability?

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  • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

    Hi, my first post here. Greetings to all.

    Just wanted to say the 2-piece packing crate looked pretty nifty to me,
    too. I'm going to use one end as a floor base for a paint cabinet and the other
    end looks like it will serve as some kind of table or bench.

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    • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

      I cut the stubby feet off my shipping crate and welded locking casters in their place. I then mounted a table top on in to make a rolling shop cart. It works great.

      Mike

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      • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

        I played with a display model today, and didn't like the fence very much. Before it is locked down, there seems to be quite a bit of play as far as the angle of the fence. Once it is locked down it did seem very sold though. I would like the angle to have a bit less play, because I often end up using some piece of wood as a reference, and the 3650/3660 fence seems like it would work better for me. The split rail just bothers me, but the fence did moive over it OK. Not having the plastic faces doesn't seem like it is a problem to me.

        The miter slot was also chipped at the front, which is not terribly unexpected on a display model (as others have noted) or something that I think would affect function.

        I think if they kept the 3650/3660 fence design, this would be a better saw than what they came out with.

        Comment


        • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

          Originally posted by wwhobbes View Post
          ...

          All - How good it the bundled blade? If I end up getting a WWII or similar, would the 1/8 or 3/32 kerf be better?
          Stock blades are typically junk, and this one's no exception. Keep it for suspect wood and non-critical cuts. Motors < 3hp will have a noticeably easier time spinning a good quality thin kerf blade (3/32"). Full kerf would be fine but will struggle more once you get much beyond 1-1/2" material. As long as you stick with a good quality blade like a Forrest, Infinity, Ridge Carbide, Freud Industrial, etc. you shouldn't have any issues with the TK blade.

          If you really want to have high quality cutting capability across a wide range, and still retain good versatility, I'd go for two blades... Forrest WWII 30T TK and the Infinity 010-060 Hi-ATB 60T TK. Both are excellent at different ends of the spectrum, both are versatile enough to handle most tasks without changing out blades, and they're an excellent compliment to each other. Use the 30T for clean rips in thicker materials and general purpose work, and the 60T for fine crosscuts, plywood, and also general purpose use.
          Last edited by hewood; 05-04-2009, 09:44 AM.

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          • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

            Originally posted by cpw View Post
            I played with a display model today, and didn't like the fence very much. Before it is locked down, there seems to be quite a bit of play as far as the angle of the fence. Once it is locked down it did seem very sold though. I would like the angle to have a bit less play, because I often end up using some piece of wood as a reference, and the 3650/3660 fence seems like it would work better for me. The split rail just bothers me, but the fence did moive over it OK. Not having the plastic faces doesn't seem like it is a problem to me.

            The miter slot was also chipped at the front, which is not terribly unexpected on a display model (as others have noted) or something that I think would affect function.

            I think if they kept the 3650/3660 fence design, this would be a better saw than what they came out with.
            The angle you reference can easily be adjusted out. After adjusting you do have to lift the handle all the way up to move the fence, however it has very little angular movement once it's adjusted. Like any tool it has it's own personality. I found, and got used to placing my hand so my thumb and first finger cradle the handle, a slight upward pressure to make certain the cam is not causing any drag and move the fence. Once adjusted I felt no binding, smooth as silk! When you get it on the mark and actually let the handle go it's within a 1/32". I tap it with my finger for final lockdown at that point.

            Buck

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            • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

              Anyone else have "leakage" by the bevel angle handle? After putting the saw together, the next morning I noticed what looks like an oil run underneath the handle. Doesnt seem to be getting worse, just figured it was some lube from the factory that loosened when I actually used the bevel wheel.

              -Chris

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              • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

                Originally posted by hewood View Post
                Stock blades are typically junk, and this one's no exception. Keep it for suspect wood and non-critical cuts. Motors < 3hp will have a noticeably easier time spinning a good quality thin kerf blade (3/32"). Full kerf would be fine but will struggle more once you get much beyond 1-1/2" material. As long as you stick with a good quality blade like a Forrest, Infinity, Ridge Carbide, Freud Industrial, etc. you shouldn't have any issues with the TK blade.

                If you really want to have high quality cutting capability across a wide range, and still retain good versatility, I'd go for two blades... Forrest WWII 30T TK and the Infinity 010-060 Hi-ATB 60T TK. Both are excellent at different ends of the spectrum, both are versatile enough to handle most tasks without changing out blades, and they're an excellent compliment to each other. Use the 30T for clean rips in thicker materials and general purpose work, and the 60T for fine crosscuts, plywood, and also general purpose use.
                If they're both versatile enough to handle most tasks, why are two needed? Would the WWII 40T be a better middle of the road option? Or will I just not see enough difference between the 30T & 40T. In case it matters, initial projects will be pine.

                Also, I'm still a bit confused about which kerf. Should I just get a thin (3/32") kerf blade? Or will I see some advantage from a full (1/8") kerf on the R4511?

                Thx!

                Comment


                • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

                  Originally posted by wwhobbes View Post
                  If they're both versatile enough to handle most tasks, why are two needed? Would the WWII 40T be a better middle of the road option? Or will I just not see enough difference between the 30T & 40T. In case it matters, initial projects will be pine.

                  Also, I'm still a bit confused about which kerf. Should I just get a thin (3/32") kerf blade? Or will I see some advantage from a full (1/8") kerf on the R4511?

                  Thx!
                  I actually ran all three of these blades on my 1-3/4hp hybrid. What you'll get with the 40T is very good midrange performance for a lot of tasks, but it won't rip thick stock efficiently, like the 30T or a 24T dedicated ripper, and it won't give the excellent results in ply and crosscuts like the 60T Infinity or an 80T Hi-ATB plywood blade. The 40T basically has a narrower operating range that it excels in. You may find that the 40T is sufficient...my suggestion costs more but gives you excellent performance across nearly the entire spectrum of tasks you'll encounter. They act very much like dedicated task blades but both happen to offer very good versatility so you're not forced to change blades to get good results in most tasks, but you'll have the capability of excellence in the extreme regions should you ever want/need it....plus two blades will wear better than one. Either one of these blades by itself might suit your needs depending on what you cut. There's little difference in cut quality between the 30T and 40T until you get into the extremes of thick material or fine plywood cuts...the 30T is noticeably more efficient in thick material where the 40T labors and may burn more, and the 40T is slightly cleaner in plywoods, sheetgoods, etc. If you never cut materials over 1.5", and/or never need finer cuts in plywood or crosscuts, the 40T WWII or equivalent or high quality 50T combo like an Infinity Combomax or Freud LU83R010 will work fine. The only consideration for pine is that it leaves a lot of pitch so the blades need to be cleaned often. (I know you saved $150 on the saw, so I thought you might want to sink some those savings into great blades to cover all your bases! )

                  Good quality thin kerf blades take a narrower cut and therefore pose less resistance to the saw. While the saw will spin a full kerf without much struggle, there is definitely some advantage with the TK to your motor....it's especially noticeable on thicker materials.
                  Last edited by hewood; 05-04-2009, 12:46 PM.

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                  • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

                    Thanks hewood. You've got me sold on the 30T TK.

                    What's the recommended approach (frequency, method) for cleaning pitch off blades? Anything that will also work on router bits?

                    Comment


                    • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

                      Originally posted by wwhobbes View Post
                      Thanks hewood. You've got me sold on the 30T TK.

                      What's the recommended approach (frequency, method) for cleaning pitch off blades? Anything that will also work on router bits?
                      Pretty much....I've had success with several cleaning solvents - 409, Fantastic, Simple Green, Greased Lightnin, LA's Totally Awesome, Goo Gone, Boeshield Blade n Bit cleaner. Cleaning them often makes it easier. I just spray a degreaser on both sides and hit it with a tooth brush or brass brush, and rinse with hot water and wipe....3-5 minutes from start to finish. I do it as often as I think of it....at least once per project, usually more.

                      The 30T WWII is a great starting point because it allows you to add the 60T anytime you have the need or desire. Have fun!

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                      • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

                        Any reason one of the coated blades (e.g., Freud) would work better if cutting lots of pine?

                        Seems like lots of folks are buying blades off Amazon. Are there better (i.e., less $) resellers out there?

                        -- I promise not to ask any more blade-related questions --

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                        • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

                          Originally posted by wwhobbes View Post
                          Any reason one of the coated blades (e.g., Freud) would work better if cutting lots of pine?

                          Seems like lots of folks are buying blades off Amazon. Are there better (i.e., less $) resellers out there?

                          -- I promise not to ask any more blade-related questions --
                          No problem with the questions....I'd rather see someone ask questions and pick the right blade(s) for their situation than read about someone spending a lot of money on a blade that's a poor choice for them.

                          Blades with coatings tend to be easier to clean, but don't overlook the many blades with clear coatings. The coating also has little or nothing to do with cut quality. It's a minor thing IMO...possibly a tie-breaker but not a primary incentive to buy.

                          Amazon has decent regular pricing, some good sale prices, and some crazy sale prices...you have to be patient and watch... know the pricing, and know when to pounce to get the crazy deals! (which often don't lineup with the timing of your blade needs ). Some good deals come through Ebay too. Rockler and Woodcraft occasionally have ok blade deals. Infinity is a direct supplier and typically has pretty good pricing for premium blades...their overstock deals are good. Holbren offers 10% to a few forums, has good pricing, and good shipping rates but only sells Tenryu, Ridge Carbide, and Oshlun blades.

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                          • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

                            HD delivered the R4511 this morning along with a JP0600. Still deciding whether to keep the latter as I would probably benefit more from a 13" planer and use a router as a jointer.

                            I'll hopefully get a chance this weekend to start assembling the 4511. Any pointers on best methods/tools for aligning everything?

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                            • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

                              Originally posted by wwhobbes View Post
                              I'll hopefully get a chance this weekend to start assembling the 4511. Any pointers on best methods/tools for aligning everything?
                              This thread has all the info

                              http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...ighlight=R4511

                              Comment


                              • Re: Ridgid R4511 availability?

                                Originally posted by wwhobbes View Post
                                HD delivered the R4511 this morning along with a JP0600. Still deciding whether to keep the latter as I would probably benefit more from a 13" planer and use a router as a jointer.
                                Congratulations on your new tools. I am a beginning woodworker wannabee and wasn't sure whether I really needed the jointer vs. just using my router for jointing. Just in the limited projects that I've done, I've found the 6" jointer to be invaluable. It's just too easy to walk over to the jointer and put a perfectly smooth and square edge on a piece of wood. Takes all of 30 seconds compared to setting up the router table for the task, which takes me 10 minutes. My cheap benchtop router table also doesn't do the best job (another project for me). Now that I just purchased the R4511, I know I'll use my jointer even more, since any piece you rip should be jointed first to help prevent kickback. I'm a little paranoid about table saw safety. Now I only joint plywood on my router since I don't want to ruin my jointer blades.

                                I consider my jointer to be one of my better investments. It's a Rikon 20-110, but any 6 inch jointer should be pretty much the same. I still haven't unpacked my DeWalt DW735 planer from the box, but I'm sure I'll need it at some point.

                                Dave
                                Last edited by DaveWoodWork; 05-06-2009, 05:06 PM.

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