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  • Ridgid Jointer

    At my local HD I just saw a new in the box Ridgid 6 1/8 Jointer for $300, regularly $399. I looked on HD's website and see it for $429. I've got many of the "correct" power tools for an amateur woodworker but no planer or jointer yet. Should I jump on this deal?

    Thanks much in advance.
    Skip
    Stay well and play well.
    Skip

  • #2
    Re: Ridgid Jointer

    Originally posted by skipsax View Post
    At my local HD I just saw a new in the box Ridgid 6 1/8 Jointer for $300, regularly $399. I looked on HD's website and see it for $429. I've got many of the "correct" power tools for an amateur woodworker but no planer or jointer yet. Should I jump on this deal?

    Thanks much in advance.
    Skip
    I think I would, assuming there was no other tool that you actually needed more. That is not much more than a benchtop unit. One of my local HDs seems to have stopped carrying the jointer, and the other marked it up to $429.

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    • #3
      Re: Ridgid Jointer

      Most of the time my Ridgid jointer sits doing nothing except collecting dust. But when I need it it works well. Truthfully I am moderately intimidated by the noise. If I didn't have a planer or jointer I would give consideration to buying a planer first and then a jointer. There are a number of easy ways to joint boards but not many easy ways to plane them. I use my planer far more often than my jointer. With both, a dust/chip collection system of some type is necessary.

      -Tom

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      • #4
        Re: Ridgid Jointer

        $300 is a good price. You probably won't find a decent new jointer for less. It's a solid tool at a good price.

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        • #5
          Re: Ridgid Jointer

          My Ridgid jointer has been very handy. I use it at least once a week and on just about every project I've done. While I could wish for a wider bed, I don't have that kind of cash, and the Ridgid jointer does what I need very well. I kind of like the noise, personally. It's that low-pitched wrrrrrrrrrrrrr that reminds me of working with my Dad.

          I do also have a planer, but find that if I can flatten one side first on the jointer, the passes through the planer actually work to flatten the board and bring it to proper dimension. You can't take a twisted board through a planer. You can, however, take a twist out of one side with the jointer and then run it through the planer. Takes some practice to do that, but it does work. How you push the wood across the jointer blades makes all the difference in the world. Careful, even pressure to start the board across the blades followed by a smooth transition to pull will yield the best results from what I've found.
          I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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          • #6
            Re: Ridgid Jointer

            I posted this full review of the jointer on the Ridgid review page some time ago, but I will reprint it here for you to look over.

            Before I purchased the JP0610 I owned a 30-inch Delta JT160 tabletop jointer/planer. I still have the thing and now store it on a shelf where it can be quickly hauled out onto my shop's workdeck for rough-and-tumble work that does not involve longer boards.

            The 45-inch-bed Ridgid JP unit has replaced it as a precision tool (some have complained of table alignment problems, but mine seems perfect in that respect), and of course the new unit has a built-in stand. It is a pretty basic jointer/planer, with outfeed table star wheel and lock screws for that end of the cast-iron table assembly and a hand crank to allow for quick adjustment of the infeed table. The table tops are very well finished and I found no misalignment issues once I had the unit assembled. Assembly itself was rather simple, and the fence was also perfectly aligned (leveled) and went into place with no hangups. The assembled machine weighs a tad more than 200 pounds.

            The manual is pretty good about dealing out instructions, but I do recommend making sure that the two pullies are not only set up properly in terms of vertical tension but are also parallel to each other and in front-to-rear alignment. The manual mentions the vertical alignment requirement but does not mention the parallelism issue. Adjustments for in/out alignment can be made by moving either the motor or the table assembly, but adjustments for parallelism can only be made by moving the motor before tightening the motor-mount screws. Only basic hand tools are needed to assemble the tool. The tool also came with a comprehensive parts breakdown list, typical with Ridgid tools.

            The manual suggests mounting the motor with the assembly flipped upside down, but it also mentions that tensioning the belt can also be done with the assembly rightside up - using gravity to do the tensioning. I followed the latter suggestion, but one must remember that the motor is heavy enough to put too much tension on the belt. Care must be applied to get the belt deflection to the 1-inch point the manual suggests.

            I modify nearly all of my tools, and this one was no exception. The amount of "editing" was more than what I did with the Ridgid sliding compound miter saw I will review elsewhere and considerably less than what I did with the company's band saw, also slated to be reviewed by me.

            First, I installed it on a mobile wooden platform under the unit's metal stand. This helped to stiffen up the entire lower assembly. The platform sits on 4-inch wheels, each of which can swivel. Doing this not only allows me to move the unit out onto my shop's outdoor workdeck but also gets the cast-iron table surface 6 inches further off of the floor. I like my worksurfaces to be rather high up. To stablize the base when using the tool I built two large wooden "wedges" that I can push under one end of the platform to keep the unit solidly against the floor at four contact points and from moving about as I slide workpieces along the table.

            Second, the motor mounts to oval-shape cutouts in the bottom of the dust chute. The motor chassis does not cover the holes completely, which will allow woodchips to drop into the motor area. To combat this I put pieces of clear packing tape over the cutouts inside of the dust chute after mounting the motor. This reduces the amount of dust dropping onto the motor itself.

            Third, I replaced the stock belt with one that I picked up at an auto parts store. I did the same thing with the 14-inch band saw, but in the case of the jointer/planer the belt that came with the product was not as weird as the one that came with the saw. Indeed, the stock belt seemed reasonably well made, but it was still too stiff for my taste and so I now have that much more flexible (and American made) belt installed. Ironically, I later on went back to the stock belt, because the flexible and segmented automotive grade belt I tried tended to oscillate too much.

            Fourth, the unit has a four-inch dust port on the left side of the stand. (The port assembly can be removed so that gravity can pull chips down the square chute to the floor if one cares to do things that way.) All of my other tools have ports that are 2.5 inches or smaller, so my dust-collector device (which is simple, uses no bag, and simply blasts dust out into my "natural" yard area) has a 4-inch to 2.5-inch adaptor solidly attached to the end of the 4-inch hose. To facilitate the use of this adaptor I installed a similar adaptor to the 4-inch port on the jointer. The reduced air flow from the neck-down configuration has not resulted in dust piling up inside of the tool's dust chute.

            Finally, the unit has two vertical cutouts on one end of the metal stand (the end opposite the dust-port) where one can store the two push blocks that came with it. When in place they tend to rattle and so I store them on a shelf next to where the device is parked when it is inside of my small shop. To make use of the two cutouts I installed a very solid handle that lets me more easily manhandle the unit out onto the deck. I can do this by grasping the table assembly, of course, but I prefer to not use that part of the jointer as a handle. The added handle works fine and there is more than enough clearance between it and the outfeed table crank.

            I like this jointer/planer. It runs smooth and cuts true. It is easy to adjust and after running through dozens of feet of wood the blades still seem dangerously sharp. I ordered spare blades from Ridgid ($10 bucks apiece for three, a not-bad price) and will use them when honing the blades that came with the unit no longer is viable.

            Certainly a jointer/planer with a longer bed would work better with longer boards than the 45-inch Ridgid, but it would probably be so heavy that I could not wrestle it out onto my workdeck. It would also cost more. The Ridgid unit was listed at $399 at Home Depot but I talked to a clerk about that price (up from the $349 it had been a few months before), and he knocked it back down to $349. I think they are selling the thing for $450 these days.

            Howard Ferstler

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            • #7
              Re: Ridgid Jointer

              i have the ridgid jointer. got it "missing parts" for $150. only part missing was the yellow insert for the power switch (which ridgid CS sent free). like tom w, mine spends a fair amount of time gathering dust as i find it is mostly useful in truing up lumber for finished projects, such as furniture building and cabinetry. when i have had occasion to use it, it has performed very well.
              there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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