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Installed riser block BUT

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  • Installed riser block BUT

    Well installed the riser block.
    Took out the blade guide assembly and something shot me in the hand,hmm I said and decided to read the instructions and discovered that there was a spring and ball bearing in there.
    Found it about 15 min later put the riser block on only to find out its alignment posts and holes are wrong!!!!
    Now my wheels are no longer co planer.
    Its off about 3/32.
    How much will this effect the saw the blade is still square.Should I shim the wheel

  • #2
    First remove the lower flywheel. With a wooden mallot tap on the axle so it moves about 1/2 inch. Remove the belt guard and the pulley on the lower axle. Make sure the clip is in the 2nd notch, not the first. Reassemlbe. If the flywheels still do not match up, shim riser block between the lower casting and the block. Mine took a 1/2" wide 24G piece of metal full width of the block.

    I'm betting your upper flywheel sticks out past the lower flywheel now the riser installed?
    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


    • #3
      My second groove is about 1/4" from the first.
      If my block ligned up correctly with my upper and lower casting my wheels would still be co-planer. I dont understand the need for the xtra 1/2" piece of steel between the block and lower casting? please help
      Dont feel secure about rapping the drive with a hammer and block to move it a 1/2".
      Yes the top wheel potrudes about 3/32.


      • #4
        The 1/2" is the width, thickness is 24 gauge. You insert this between the riser block and the bottom casting on the front side to "TIP" the top casting so the wheels will align properly. You may experience the tensioning mechanism binding on the stamped steel cover of the upper flywheel without the shim. Because the whole casting is tipping forward, to align the wheel it will be at a greater angle. When loosening blade tension, it bind on the back cover before full tension is released.

        The way the axil works is if the clip is in the first notch, you tighten the flywheel down and before the bearing seats on the inner sleeve, the flywheel bolt bottoms out. This lets the axil move back and forth under usage. Putting the clip in the second notch pulls the axil farther through the sleeve, allowing the flywheel to seat on one side of the bearing, and the sleeve on the other. This will eliminate the movement of the shaft. It's a left hand thread so it's self tightening under use. No need to torque it down and bind the bearing on assembly.

        View some photo's here
        John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


        • #5
          Thanks now I understand.
          Looked at the saw and its already set up that way minus the 24 gauge shim of course.
          I have a 3/32 gap on the bottom wheel but paralell with the top wheel

          Is 3/32 a problem? the blade remained square to the table.
          I coukd pull the alignment pins and move it till its aligned but I'm afraid that vibration would cause the block to move out of alignment without the pins to help hold it.


          • #6
            The pins must remain in place.
            John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>