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  • Crosscut and dado crosscut sleds

    I built two sleds the last couple of days after working in the shop & thought some of you might like to see them...the next job will be a lot easier, I'm tired of using my router for dados!

    http://users3.ev1.net/~woodcat/crosscutsleds.html
    Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

  • #2
    Kelly, they look real BIG beasts!! What's the size of the average bookcase that you'll use these for. Just that a sled is one item on my to-do list, I already have 18" steel runners for the slot's. Just got to get around to building it. And my SWMBO project is two bookcases 70"H x 30"W x 14"D. I was only going to make a single sled. Didn't even think about my Dado set

    David

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    • #3
      Wow! What monsters. I was going to build some sleds in the near future but nothing like those. It looks as if you could put stops on there (maybe add a T-track?) or even some hold down clamps. I like the fact that it also acts as sort of a zero clearance insert for the saw.

      Personally, I liked the ever so popular "sacrificial fence" for the dado blade. It's so amazing how many jigs you find you need to build for what seem like simple projects. Although, I guess that's what makes the stuff turn out right the first time.

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      • #4
        Nice sleds Kelly, I'll take a set for my TS2400, Thanks, Dan LOL
        info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

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        • #5
          Thanks Guys...yep, they're not small or light, but they are definitely the right size for what I need to do. I got tired of using my Mag77 to crosscut and tired of the dados via router.

          I can crosscut or dado up to 20" wide stock now...normally, I build 12"-18" deep shelf units...this time there's a desk in between at 24" deep.

          I might add some simple hold downs, but nothing fancy. I'm not the T-track type so far...my fences both have them, but I've never used either one.

          On the 2400...I thought they'd fit it and they do but the blade on the 2400 is slightly to the left of the 2424...not good.....I really don't need to use them on that saw, but I do have enough stock to make a third....
          Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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          • #6
            How long does it take you to set up the dado set on the saw? What do you do about outfeed? I'm finding that fiddling with all the pieces and then messing with test cuts takes longer than a router cut dado. Of course, I only cut about 8 dados at a whack across 20 x 38 stock.

            I've got one of those quick cutting guide clamps (clamp built into guide - available from Rockler); measure, mark, clamp cutting guide, cut dado. Only take about 20 - 30 minutes if I worked at it.

            Thanks for any advice, Curt

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            • #7
              Takes about a minute to set the dado set on the arbor. Now with the sleds at work, the router I have will be sold along with the 1/4" bits. I will do all dados on the TS from now on due tot he fact that the router bit is too large for 3/4" plywood (actually 23/32").

              I'm going to move the rails over eventually and get a router table insert. Then the Milwaukee 1.75hp body grip router with the "router lift" key wrench. I will have a setup that most pay over $650 for and it will only cost $300.

              For outfeed...see my site, I have built several rolling tables in my shop, one as an outfeed table.
              Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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              • #8
                Kelly,

                I also want to get the body grip router. I saw it on the Lowes web site for $138.00. Not a bad price. At Northwestpowertools.com it is $148.00 with a free edge guide. (So, if it is $10.00 more, is it really free?)

                Rob

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                • #9
                  Those are real nice sleds Kelly. I am sure you know this but there are undersized router bits avialable for 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" plywood. I use these with great sucsess. I just thought I would mention it for those who did not know they were out there.

                  [ 02-12-2003, 08:46 AM: Message edited by: Ken Deckelman ]

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                  • #10
                    Actually I didn't, but I still want to move the process to the TS...On projects like the bookcase wall I'm building right now, using my dado sled would save a ton of time.
                    Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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                    • #11
                      Rob, I paid close to $170 for the body grip router a few months ago, so I think you would be getting a good deal anywhere you go.

                      Curt, It takes maybe 10 minutes to do your first set up for certain stock as you want to test fit things, but once you have a combo that works, write down how many shims you used etc. for that thickness, then setup only takes a minute or two. It took me the better part of an hour to rout all the dados in a dresser I was making. I tried the saw for the next dresser and had them done in 15 minutes. To me, well worth the expense.

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                      • #12
                        Kelly, Very nice work....
                        What steps did you take to get an exact 90 degree cut? Everyone shows sleds, but no one says what they did to get an exact 90 degree.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks, When I was cutting the large base panels, I used my SCMS. In my shop it was the most reliable way of getting a 90 on the panel itself, now I just use the sleds on anything larger than 13" wide.

                          I had to flip them over once to cut the entire 23 3/4".

                          On the cut where the blade goes...here's how I did it....

                          First I put [2] 3/8"x3/4" Maple runners in the miter slots, then after cutting the panel, I set it down on the runners and squared it with the front of the tabletop of the saw. Then, I used four screws per runner to attach them to each other. Then I pulled the unit out and went to work on the fences. I sandwiched two 4 1/8" tall pices of the same Birch ply and glued/screwed them. Then I clamped them onto the base every 12" very tight, then flipped on it's side to screw in with 3" decking screws.

                          I actually flipped the sled upside down on the TS to cut the brace dados....then used [2] 1.5"x1.5" pine braces.
                          Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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                          • #14
                            Mike,

                            Did you use a sled for your saw cut dados? How big were the pieces?

                            Thanks, Curt

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                            • #15
                              I built a similar sled for exactly the same purpose and it worked very well - until the base warpped - resulting in inconsistent depth of the dado cut. My shop is an unheated garage in Michigan and experiences extremes in heat, cold and humidity.

                              One question though, how do you handle the in-feed with all that weight hanging off the front of the saw?

                              Best regards,

                              Henry

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