Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse

How To Post Images

Want to know the how to upload images to your posts? Image Posting Tutorial
See more
See less

SNIPING!!!

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • SNIPING!!!

    Hey all!! Can ya help me out? Got to fire up the planer and having a bit of a problem. Gettin some bad sniping!! Have run oak, cherry, maple and some poplar. No difference from one to the other. Also depth of cut does seem to make some difference, but not much. I made sure that the cutter head lock was locked, but I'm having no success. It is quite bad in some cases. First and last two inches of the cut? At this point my wood is free, but when I have to at some point pay for it, I don't want to have to add four inches of length just to cut it off. HELP!!!
    I would appreciate any input here!!
    Remember to wear those safety glasses all!!

  • #2
    Dutch,

    First start with the instructions in the manual on leveling the infeed and outfeed tables. This is a good starting place. Next feed a 3-4 foot piece of pine stock through the machine and see what kind of snipe you get. Make a second pass on the stock and lift up on the end of the board slightly as you feed it into the machine. If the snipe is reduced then the infeed table needs to be adjusted upward. If the snipe gets worse, then the infeed table needs to go downward slightly. Repeat the same procedure for the outfeed table.

    You will never get rid of snipe 100%, but you can reduce it by adjusting the tables. Our rule of thumb is if you can sand it out with 100-grit paper then the snipe is under control.

    Jake

    Comment


    • #3
      Mr. Jake

      "if you can sand it out with 100-grit paper then the snipe is under control."

      I guess I'm slow, but how can you sand out snipe, unless you sand all the 'unsniped' board? I'm assuming 'snipe' means thinner, not thicker.

      rodneyj in tx

      Comment


      • #4
        Wood,

        When the snipe get light enough, it's no longer a deeper cut, but just a small line about 2 1/2" in from the end of the board. At that point it is fairly easy to sand out.

        Jake

        Comment


        • #5
          Thank You Jake for your advise, and I did read up on it yesterday as far as the adjustment. Just haven't had an oppurtunity to do so yet. Woodbutcher does have a notable point I'd like to Thank him for that as well. And in regards to his statement what if I was to make say a 72" long mantle for my fireplace which I intend to do, that would be a great deal of sanding wouldn't it. I'll try to get it figured out and I know where to go if I have any further questions. Say? Why DO they call you wood(butcher)?

          Comment


          • #6
            Could be that my skill(?) level is at a point to where all my work looks like it was done with a chainsaw.

            Good luck w/that 72" mantle. One thing I try to do when jointing is to maintain constant pressure on the piece, especially at the cutter head. Just push it through, being careful to maintain even "down" pressure, especially on the trailing end. Let the cutter do it's thing, and don't force it.

            p.s. why the "Dutch" handle? Does that mean you never treat? (C;

            rotsa ruck & bee safe

            rodneyj in tx

            Comment


            • #7
              Woodbutcher,

              Good advise on using the jointer. I have also found that using horizontal and vertical feather boards helps with the pressure and alignment consistency as well as adding additional safety.

              Wood Dog

              Comment


              • #8
                Other band aid fix on the mantle - plane the board at 80", allowing a bit of extra to cut off the sniped piece.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Woodbutcher,
                  You seem to be a raving wealth of imformation, not JAKE though. [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img] Kidding!
                  But, I do like your style. I don't have the jointer yet though, working on it. In fact I was just talking to Tootsie about that yesterday!! Tootsie is wifey!!
                  I do have a pretty good grasp of woodworking I was just having trouble with my thickness planer. I'm used to larger industrial planers. I made grand father clocks and really nice office furniture for Sligh furniture for almost 8 years. A bit different downscaling, but I'll get there. That's why I'm so glad this forum is here. I have a great backup crew to help me out with the actual tools that I have.
                  Dutch is a nickname, I do Dutch treat though, ask Tootsie.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    DUTCH,
                    If you can't solve the problem like JAKE suggest try taking a piece of melomien the width of your planer and about 4'long add a cleat underneath at about midway,place it in the plane and use it as a one piece infeed outfeed table with the cleat acting as a stop so it is'nt pulled through the planer.I saw this posted in another forum and it seemed to have worked for that guy.
                    Work Smart Not Hard

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X