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  • Hardwood Floors

    I'm getting ready to install hardwood floors and the old molding will have to be replaced. Is there a way to install new molding in one room and have it match up to the molding in adjoining rooms?

  • #2
    Cutting moulding is very time consuming unless you have a custom blade to match the moulding and a moulding cutter (sometimes part of a planer).

    I had a similar situation, and finally found a matching moulding at a lumber yard - not a big box, but a contractor-oriented, retail un-friendly, lumber yard.

    I know someone who was rebuilding an old house, and paid his lumber yard to get a custom blade and use it to match the moulding in the house. He replaced (or added) over half the moulding in the house, so felt the cost was worth it.

    If you still can't match the shape, you might consider a different style - stained rather than painted, for example, as to "justify" a different shape.

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    • #3
      All depends on how old your house is. If you have complex (two part) or very high molding, you would be better off trying to match the old.

      Be aware, that if you haven't had hardwood floors before, and you have something like 5/8" thick molding now, you will probably need a 1/4 round shoe added to the molding, to cover the necessary expansion gaps-----the 1/4 round is pretty easy to install and if you wanted to, you could add it to an old molding for matching.

      Another approach, depending on the style/design, is to transition from old to new using corner or plinth blocks. These are simply profiled blocks used where door molding meets baseboards and at corners of base boards----nice look and eliminates matching miters.
      Dave

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      • #4
        i was going to recommend that you do what the poster above suggested....providing the moulding is in good shape. cut the floor planks i/4 " short (making it 1/8th on either side)allowing the floor to expand/contract without buckling, and install 1/4 round

        this looks good and saves a lot of headache!
        \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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        • #5
          If you go with the extra moulding along the edge (a good idea) note that quarter round and shoe moulding are different. Quarter round is 1/4 of a circle, as you would expect. But shoe moulding is not based on a circle. I don't remember the exact dimensions, but it is something like 3/4" high and 1/2 inch deep, normally installed so it runs a little higher on the wall, and can cover more unevenness between the floor and wall, with less covering the floor (so it doesn't keep cabinets as far away from the wall. Visually it makes a big difference.

          It has been years since I used it, but as I recall, the shoe moulding was readily available in oak or other hard woods to match flooring, while the quarter round was primarily sold in soft wood.

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          • #6
            Those expansion spaces along the walls are a great hiding place for speaker wires and telephone cables, and, as stated previously, are easily covered with shoe moldiongs or quarter rounds. If you can't find the exact moulding you want, you can make what you need on a router table. Route the curved edge first, then rip the board to your desired depth on the table saw.
            keep makn\' sawdust!...just don\'t breath any.

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            • #7
              Greg is right about hiding wires----redid our living room and now the surround sound wires are well hidden

              As to 1/4 round vs. shoe----depends on the look of existing molding---I used 1/2" quarter round and it looked great with my base board---good proportions, but shoe would look good with other profiles.
              Dave

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