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Thanks all; as I said there are things that I know are not very good. For example, for the side-to-front panel joint, I was initially thinking of doing a miter joint with enforcement from inside. But then changed the plan and had to add that half round piece to cover the joint. Not a very good job here. I guess things get better with experience.
Firstly, the chest isn't that great. There are some flaws seen when you look very closely. Secondly, I certainly had built other things before, e.g. did the deck and fence for our new house this past summer. I also built several jigs for the shop (they are very handy). I built a couple of other small things (like a paper towel holder) and all these are helping me improve my skills but there are lots of things to learn and I think you should not give up at all.
I feel a tiny bit better. There is hope for me too!
man! its been a while since i visited this site! attached are some pics of my work bench that i just complete. started back in jan 07, and stopped for a few months in between and just restarted finally and have it almost finished.
basically, i designed this bench so that i ended up having cantilevers at the base that are approx. 1'-6" long. the bench is finished with gloss finish polyurethane. just put the last coat on this morning on the top and the doors.
the top was done as it is to utilize a 1.5" thick maple counter top that i got from a friend who redid his kitchen island. so the remainder of the top is made up of (2) layers of 3/4" mdf. the edges of the top is trimmed out with 7/8" thick x 2.5" tall hard maple that were mitered at the end to match. the top meansures about 38.5" x 9'-0" long.
the cabinet below is about 24" tall x 30" deep. the cabinet area is divided into three sections:
* the (4) doors on the left is divided into two sections with an adjustable shelf. this is going to hold most of my tool (w/o cases).
* the right hand bay holds (4) drawers: (2) are 3" tall and (2) are 7" tall.
* the left hand bay (which is open) is going to hold two stools that i still have to make.
there is a 5.5" tall section between the top and cabinet section. that area is going to be used to store hand tools out of the way when using the table top for a project.
the left top cantilever is about 1'-4" and that is where i still have to install a 9" face vice that i got from HF. the 2nd HF 9" modified vice is going to be installed at the end of the table lenght wise at the right side (drawer bay end).
the vertical legs are made out of pine. the outside four are made out of 2x4's and the middle four are made out pairs of 2x4's. the legs were mortised into the bottom frame and into the top plate that supports the table top. the interior legs was connected to the base using biscuits, pocket holes and a recessed mortise connection -- too wierd to explain. i may have some pictures that i could post at a later date if i can find any.
just when i was taking the pictures, i noticed i forgot to put a filler piece between the cabinet doors (there is about an inch wide gap).
some boo boos that you might not see in the pictrues: when making the top, all three pieces were suppose to fit snuggly with no gaps (back in march) but right now there is this big gap that i dont know what to do with (see picture). also when i was mitering the trim around the table top, i messed up the miters and they dont close on two opposite corners. i just left them as is. that is the first time i ever did a miter joint.
I thought that you guys might be interested in this. This is not a project of mine. I have a friend who is a contractor and has a custom millwork shop with 2 CNC machines that did the work that you see. This is all relief work not applied moldings. In other words, the CNC machine carved out the design that you see here. It was breathtaking to see this. These are panels for interior doors made from South American mahoganey. The doors are 8 or 9' tall and 2 1/2" thick. One of the photos is an actual door.