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Nice work on both projects. I've pondered building a guitar for several years. Was this your first? Did you buy the neck?
This was my 2nd guitar project, and I did buy the neck, which I highly recommend. I also highly recommend building one...it's a great learning adventure and a really fun project. There's a ton of online information. Here's a link to the whole process if you're interested. Hope you build one and post it for us!
Not exactly woodworking, but SWMBO has been keeping me busy with a "honey do" list that won't quit. Here are a couple of windows I replaced, and a set of pressure treated wood steps to our swimming pool.
Came across this tote I built a few years back. I started out not knowing what I would use it for it just looked like a fun project to build so I did. It sat around for a while without a purpose then one winter I decided to use it as a tote for my gluing paraphernalia so I could lug it all in and out of the shop so it wouldn't freeze when I wasn't working in there. That's been its purpose ever since.
What it originally was intended for I don't remember but its a knock down tote built from 1/4" plywood, no nails or screws, it all just snaps together.
The plan came out of a WWing mag, don't remember which one or if I still have the plan.
Went searching and found the source of the tote plans, it appeared in ShopNotes issue #91.
You can download the cutting diagram for free if you are interested, but that really doesn't
give you enough information to build the tote. You'd need the article for the layout of the tabs
and slots, or you can get it in this set of plans from PlansNow. http://plansnow.com/dn3102.html
It's not done yet but maybe you can figure it out.
It's a nice quick project that can be done in a day including finishing.
Makes a good project for kids just beginning woodworking, though
you would probably want to do the router work yourself for safety.
A 7-1/2" x 11" piece of your favorite wood is all you need. So one
board foot of lumber and you are in business. Shellac makes a good
finish for this, easy and quick drying when you use a 2# cut and apply
two or three coats. I am making these two from red oak scraps I had,
you can use just about any wood.
This photo is as I started cutting out pieces for two of them. One is cut
and the other is getting laid out to show you how to position the pieces
for maximum yield.
Only two #10 x 1-1/2" wood screws and a hook need to be added to complete the project, and it will look like this.
"It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006
Like I said a simple project but both the kids have asked for one like ours.
For the hook I looked but did not find anything that fit the application.
I wanted something is SS but didn't find a ready made hook of the right type.
I tried opening up a SS eyebolt made from 3/16" dia. material but couldn't get a
smooth curve when reforming it, but I didn't try heating it which would have helped.
I opted for a piece of 3/16" brass rod which I cut to a 5" length and then rounded
over the end at the tip by spinning it by hand against my belt sander. Then I chucked
the last 3/8" or so in my drill press and spun it up at 860 RPM and polished it with various
grits of micro-mesh pads up to 12000, then put a final polish on it with some semi-chrome
polish. I then used mu RIDGID #394 1/4" lever benders to give it a 135° bend leaving about
a 3/4" tangent at the end of the hook where I had rounded the end over on the belt sander.
The hook will get roughed up to give it some grip using the serrated jaws of a pair of pliers for
the ~3/4" portion that gets embedded in the wood with some 5 minute epoxy.
Two #8 x 1-1/4" wood screws secure the arm from the underside of the base. I used steel
screws during fit-up which will be replaced with brass screws for the final assembly. That
keeps the brass screws from getting marred while working on the piece, and since they
are soft there will be no chance of one breaking in the hard wood even though the holes are
pre-drilled with the proper size pilot bit.
Can you tell us something about the door panels?
They appear to be in relief but hard to tell in a 2d photo.
I basically made this sideboard so I could try these door panels. They are 1/2" thick cherry and milled using a router trammel with a 1/4" radius round nose bit. I saw the design in Fine Woodworking magazine (April 2110 # 211) and have been waiting for a chance to build something around the doors.
The process for making the panels is really very easy. Place cleats around the panel blank so it can't move. Attach your router to a trammel that has a series of holes for the pivot. Set the pivot location and route the first curve then move to the next hole. Place your pivot on a board that can be moved so you can place it where you need in both X and Y axis. I centered the X axis and adjusted the Y axis so the curves would be centered. It would be easier to mill a larger panel and trim to center the milling.
My biggest problem was I assembled the doors before finishing the panels. Not easy the sand shellac on the panel when it is in the door frame. Lesson learned.