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saw blades??

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  • saw blades??

    I went on the forrest web site and looked at there blades. I am a little confused.. They say you can rip and crosscut with there blades, but dosen't tell you which one of them is for this purpose. can someone explain which one of the WWII is best for both cuts

    Happy Holiday's
    Semper Fi <BR>Chuck<BR>USMC 66-70

  • #2
    The WWII are good for ripping and cross cutting. The 30 tooth blade is better for thicker stock. The chop master is a great blade for a miter saw. The WWII is the best all around blade for the table saw. I'm not sure about the WWI and its advantages. Maybe someone can post about it.




    • #3
      Let me be up front about my feelings. I don't like Forrest's General Purpose blades (that's the Woodworker II). I don't like anyone's General Purpose blades, because they don't do as good a job at either task than dedicated ripping and crosscutting blades do. Before anyone asks, yes, I've used both 30 and 40 tooth models. And returned them both.

      Having blasted that out there, woodguy is on the right track. For inch or less stock, the 40 tooth is a better choice. Crosscuts on the 30 are really iffy.

      The Woodworker I is a blade optimized for the radial arm saw.



      • #4
        Allow me to add to the fray... Dave is right on when he talks about general versus specific purpose blades. I use Freud blades almost exclusively and am a big fan of their products.

        For ripping: a wood rip blade; usually lower in tooth count with deep gullets to handle the waste from ripping. My Freud rip blade has a flat grind with 24 teeth. For crosscutting: a crosscut blade which is almost always ATB grind (alternate top bevel) and has a high tooth count. I use Freud's Ultimate Crosscutting Blade which is an 80 tooth ATB blade. For laminates, particle, and ply wood: a dedicated laminate blade. Noticing a trend yet? Mine, again Freud, uses a grind called TCG (triple chip grind). This blade alternates between ATB teeth and teeth that have 3 cutting edges on them which act to score the workpiece before the ATB teeth do the cutting. This results in a glass smooth cut over the entire edge.
        I use the blades that came with my saws for the times I'm not doing furniture grade work and for the most part they do a good job. I call this "general" woodworking and more often than not use a combination blade.
        I should also mention that there is a factor called rake or more commonly hook angle. This is simply how aggressive the tooth cuts. A 20 degree hook angle is much more agggressive in the cut than a 10 or 5 degree angle. Some blades, most notably dado sets, miter saw blades and radial arm saw blades, have a negative hook angle. These blades are gentle in the cut for dados and push the workpiece into the table for RAS and miter saws for safety. But it must be noted when talking about hook angle that the greater the hook, the faster the feed rate can be, and the higher likelyhood of tear out. Negative hook blades require more patience in the feed but yield nice results.
        So you can see that by varying tooth count, tooth grind and hook angle, you can take blades that look almost identical but cut very differently. This also yeilds many levels of aggressiveness, feed rate, tear out, and edge smoothing even within the same category of blades.
        I'm sorry this was long but felt some could benefit from this discussion. And, like Dave says...a dirty blade is a dull blade! Thanks Dave for the stolen quote!

        Hope this helped.
        - Tim


        • #5
          Chuck, If you had asked which is the best "compromise general purpose" I would have answered, the 40 tooth. But, as the boys in the back room have said, there are many different blade configurations. Each config has a defined purpose. A 3 blade combo, such as Freud offers, and you're pretty well covered. Not knocking the Forrest WW II as that's what I have in my saw right now, but when I'm going to do a lot of ripping I break out the Freud 24 T ripper. [img]smile.gif[/img]


          • #6
            Throw in my two-cents worth... I use the WWII consistently when I'm doing a lot of cuts, be they rip or crosscuts. If I know I will be doing a lot of one type of cut, I will then change to a crosscut or rip blade. don't like to keep changing blades as I do different cut types on multiple projects.
            That said, I have found the WWII cuts much better after I had it resharpened by the Forrest than when it was new. If I was to buy a WWII again I would send the new blade for resharpening before I put it into the saw.
            Think Highly, Feel Deeply , Speak Plainly