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I'm a dummy

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  • I'm a dummy

    Just a word to the wise. I am relatively new to ww'ing and have learned a valuable lesson today. If one doesn't use the splitter and kickback machinism that comes with the 3612, use some sort of after market unit. After 17 stitches and a bone chip in my right index finger, Iwill not make another cut without one. Also, it is good to see mostly questions and opinions on something other than colors and betrayal a9or imagined betrayal) by Ridgid. Be careful.

  • #2
    Sorry to hear of your misfortune, if you want to be optimistic and look at the bright side, at least you are not missing any digits. Hope you have a speedy recovery.

    Woodslayer

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    • #3
      tcaniff:
      please explain exactly how this happened and maybe we can asess what NOT to do. Did you by chance "wedge" the stock between the blade and fence?
      or was this freak accident?
      Fred Drake

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      • #4
        Very very sorry to hear of your mishap. The only time I have ever used the spiter/guard was right after I set it up for a photo to put on my web site. I have never used either. I've wore a few purple spots on the belly as proof.

        I removed the motor and blade today, in hopes of assembling a poster board template to the blade dust collection I wanted to make for my 2424 in hopes of eliminating the unavoidable mess it makes. What I found is, when I set up the saw with the dual rails is there was not enough room for the mount for the spliter/guard in a 45 degree angle. So I just kept cranking when it bound up. The mount split, so even if I wanted to, I couldn't use it.

        I will replace it, somewhere down the road I may find the need for it. I mostly use scraps of wood as guides and hold downs, and featherboards. Doing what you did, you know your mistakes now. And what to look out for in the future. Configuring your own safety measures is an honest way of not using the stock safety equipment.

        In any event, I have determined it is not wise to stand directly the blade, or the stock between the blade and fence if unavoidable. Don't let OEM safety equipment fool you that it is.
        John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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        • #5
          Thanks for kind words and advice. I was ripping a 2 x 2 that was about a foot long using a push stick. After completing the cut, I failed to continue pushing the piece thru. I too never stand completely behind a cut. I also am not sure which halve flew back and hit me. I do think that if I had not jerked, it would probably would have missed. Mr Woody, I haven't nor shall I ever beleive that any "device" other than the one between my ears is responsible for my safety, I have no one but myself to blame. By the way, I still love my 3612. [img]smile.gif[/img]

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          • #6
            Hey tcaniff

            Sorry to hear about the mishap.

            Board Buddies. Look into getting a set. Never had a kickback when using them.

            I used them on my Crapsman contractors saw for well over a year. I sold the saw not too long ago, and they remained on the fence for the new owner. I do have a set to go on my Biesemeyer, but haven't gotten around to putting them one. Also run a splitter for any rips.
            Support Our Troops!
            www.mnpatriotguard.org
            www.patriotguard.org

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            • #7
              Looked at some "buddies" last Wednesday, decided to wait. Another bonehead move. They are now on order.

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              • #8
                I'm not sure, but would the splitter/guard have even helped with te small cutting operation, or would you have had to remove it to put the fence close enough? I set up the saw with the spliter, then removed it before I made the first cut.

                I previously had a crapsman and the wood would get wedged on the anti kickback mechanism every time. To me, the splitter was more dangerous than

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