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90 and 45 stops on 3612

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  • 90 and 45 stops on 3612

    Just got my 3612 finished this weekend and started on a project with it. So much better than that 1954 Craftsman.

    The one thing that bugs me about it is even after following the directions and setting the stops for the blade bevel, it still seems like if you tried to turn past the stop you could. The stop feels "mushy".

    For now I just set it to 90 with my square and locked the bevel lock. Should you always check it every time you move it?

    One other question is does anyone else's belt guard rattle? This one makes an annoying rattle. It's not the belt rubbing anywhere, the plastic latch just dosen't hold the cover tight. Some tape fixes it but who wants that on a "cadillac" of a saw.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Yep, I use a magnetic angle finder to accurately position the blade at 90 degrees or any angle, as do many guys with Unisaws and PM66's!

    And I applied duct tape to my plastic belt guard, just as you did, some 6 months back. It would appear a "normal" operating condition of the 3612. Have you covered in the back of your saw to prevent the dust shooting out. You should. Yet another enjoyment of buying a contractors saw with the motor hanging out the back...

    I thought this was the Cadillac, but not the Jag, Lexus, BMW or Merc, therefore, these little things are normal!

    David

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    • #3
      I didn't have that problem with the belt cover, but you just reminded me that I need to take my Mercedes in for an annoying rattle...

      I don't know anyone with a tablesaw that cost less than about $20,000 that trusts their tilt angle gauge. The super-expensive machines have digital readouts that are pretty trustworthy. For the rest of us, they make machinist's squares. [img]smile.gif[/img]

      Dave

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      • #4
        The slop you feel in the bevel stop is the side of the cabinet being pushed out at the angle wheel and possibly also twist in the carriage. At a WW show I went to a Table Saw seminar. The guy said not to turn the knobs any farther after they hit the bevel stops. He said to just barely touch them. If you turn past them, the carriage will start to twist and ruin your blade alignment. This made sense to me so I setup my bevel stops with the wheel barely touching them. One problem though is that sawdust builds on the stopping surfaces underneath the table, so you have to clean it off regularly. This basically means you have to check for square anyway [img]smile.gif[/img]

        Cutbuff mentioned enclosing the back of your saw, I would highly recommend it if you haven't already (search this forum with keyword "enclosing").

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