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  • #16
    I too have chosen to invest in a new router soon...the Milwaukee is the choice so far. The idea of leaving one router base attached to the table is pretty cool, but you will be giving up the adjustment from the top of the table (very important to me in table work.

    For me the choice is clear...I'm going with the Milwaukee...

    Also beware of any HP rating over 1.5-1.75...they are just as bogus as Sears table saw ratings. The main thing to pay attention to is amps. If it's rated at 15 amps, the most hp you are goin to get is about 1.75. Hp is a contrived number that means nothing in terms of power...it cannot be measured, it has to be calculated. The 3hp ratings are PEAK hp and are not accurate in the least.
    Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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    • #17
      Rob, FT2000EP is a package, that includes an edge guide.

      Dave

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      • #18
        Dave,

        Thanks. That was too easy. Now I feel stupid.

        Rob

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        • #19
          You didn't know, you asked, now you know. Where's the stupid in that?

          Dave

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          • #20
            Dave,

            If you do not mind, I have a few other questions. In the post above, you listed the routers you have. Is the Freud the one you use in your table? Have you ever used the DW in a table? From all the posts I read over the last year or so, it appears that the Freud and the Hitachi M12 are the most popular for table use. What are your thoughts on the Hitachi? I have also seen the triton pop up now and then. Do you have any thoughts on that? There are also several different router lifts. If you have any comments on those, please share. I can go on and on but will stop here for now.

            Thanks again,
            Rob

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            • #21
              No problem Rob.

              Is the Freud the one you use in your table?
              Yes.

              Have you ever used the DW in a table?
              No

              What are your thoughts on the Hitachi?
              It too is a very nice machine for table use. The collet design is different. I like the Freud's self-extracting collet better, some like the Hitachi's quick release better.


              I have also seen the triton pop up now and then. Do you have any thoughts on that?
              I spoke to the Triton representative at IWF, where the router was announced to the United States market. I asked what their return rate was like, and he told me they had one returned in over 20,000 sold. I know personally of three that have been returned in the United States, so I'm a little leery of the gentleman's facts... I have it in the same place, mentally, as any other new router, I like to see a year or more on market before I'm interested in it. Especially this Triton, which has a lot of bells and whistles that may not stand the torture test.

              There are also several different router lifts. If you have any comments on those, please share.
              I don't have any of these, but do work with them in my hobby (selling tools). The "Big Three", I think, are Bench Dog, Jessem, and Woodpeckers. They all seem to be nicely made. I just haven't found setting height or changing bits to be enough of a pain to make the investment.

              Dave

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              • #22
                Dave,

                Thanks for the info. When I start to build my table, I will make my decision. Also, I read something some time ago about the Hitachi where something on the base plate had to be sawed off for larger bits. hmmm. I will research further.

                Thanks again.

                Rob

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                • #23
                  where something on the base plate had to be sawed off for larger bits.

                  What you read was the result of a misunderstanding of how to use a router with very large diameter bits. Why people persist in this, I cannot figure out.

                  The largest bits (over around 3" in diameter), will not fit through the base of almost any router (the notable exception coming to mind is the Porter-Cable 7518). However, it is not an issue. To use a large diameter bit such as this:

                  - Compress the router on its base, such that the large bit can be inserted from below the base.

                  - Insert bit and tighten collet.

                  - Use in good health.

                  The oft-cited "problem" comes with taking partial cuts, which is a darned good idea with these huge cutters. But, to take a partial cut, rather than messing with the height adjuster, just move the fence to expose less bit on the initial pass(es). This is usually easier than moving the height. In the case of new-style bits with integral back-cutters, it is the only way they can be used.

                  Short answer: Neither the M12V nor the FT2000e's base needs to be hacked up for use with any bit.

                  Dave

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                  • #24
                    My first router is the Milwaukee bodygrip. I first bought the 690 PC but returned it because I didn't like the fixed base height adjustment of rotating the motor in the base. The Milwaukee height adjustment from the top and the bottom is very good. My only complaint about the Mil was that it doesn't have variable speed or soft start. The Mil was my first venture into real woodworking so lack of soft start and VS didn't help my initial experience. It kinda kicks at starup. So now it's assigned table duty where soft start or vs aren't that necessary. For handheld I just bought the Makita kit. It was on sale and I wanted handheld router with vs and soft start. If you want a kit I think you can't go wrong with the major brands like Dewalt, Bosch and Makita. Of course if Mil comes out with a kit that would be perfect. Hope this helps.

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