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  • Circle Cutter?

    I tried like heck, seached the internet, made about 20 calls today. I wanted a circle cutter that would cut 10 1/16" holes (never guess for what) and everyone I talked to was dumb founded on what a circle cutter was. Ones I found on the net maxed out at 8". All advice from phone calls was directed to a Roto-Zip type tool. Not what I wanted.

    Anyone having information where I can find a Drill Press type circle cutter that can handle up to 12" Dia. holes please share your knowledge. I will be forever greatful!
    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

  • #2
    John,

    I haven't seen a circle cutter for a drill press that could handle anything this size. I would use trammel and router, but you could also cut it on a bandsaw.

    Here's a site that shows how to cut them with a tramel and router.

    Bob R

    http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip030201wb.html

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    • #3
      I doubted anyone made one that big, but had to ask.

      I considered the trammel/router. But didn't feel comfortable with the stock I was using to cut the 10 1/16" holes using this method. I didn't have the cash to invest in a roto-zip type tool right now.

      I used Luaun for my blade retainers on the blade trays for the cabinet I'm building. Cutting the 10 1/16" for all 10" blades, so using a bandsaw would have violated the perimeter.

      I just returned from the shop where it took my 2 1/2 hours to drill a whole, then insert the scroll saw blade and made the circle cut. Now I'm heading back out to the spindle sander to clean up the circles. Just would have been nice to have a nice clean cut with a circle cutter, and time saving. (btw, there was 32 pieces to circle cut)
      John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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      • #4
        You could use a dremel and a router base they sell at $24 for it. might take a little longer....
        Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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        • #5
          Woodcraft still sells fly cutters (the old name for them), but only up to 8" capacity. I don't recall ever having seen one that would go twelve inches, it would have to be run at a verrrry slow speed. The larger diameter, the more off-balance the typical fly cutter is.

          I would use a trammel and router, myself.

          Dave

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          • #6
            I have seen somewhere about using a router to cut holes that big.
            Scott

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            • #7
              For the heck of it, I made a trammel and tried the router on some scrap Luaun I had left over. Holding it was a chore so I make a jig I could clamp to my table to hold it. I put in the new 1/4" Viper bit I have on hand. In short, It chewed it to splinters. The scroll saw did too, but only on the bottom side, which will be glued to another piece.

              I guess the next time I come accross such a task, I'll try the Roto-Zip type tool. I have about 6 hours total in drilling, cutting and sanding 32 piece with holes that ended up 10 1/8", not 10 1/16" I was aiming for. And by no means are the holes as round as I wanted.
              John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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              • #8
                Woody, I don't know Where your problem with the trammel router. Did the piece flop around on the last pass? If you anchor another piece to it it should minimize the chatter, and the splintering.
                Or screw two parallel 1 X 2's to backside of your piece on both sides of your cut and you should be getting pretty clean cuts.

                I have made radius cuts as big as 5" and they came out clean.
                Hope I helped

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                • #9
                  I think it was more or less just the cheap Luaun that made the process unsuccessfull.

                  I cut a piece of scrap 3/4" ply 1 1/2" larger than the size of the Luaun. Screwed 3/4"x3/4" around the perimeter so the Luaun would sit inside the frame. Then tried several cuts at different speeds. The slowest seamed to work the best, but it just chipped away.

                  I'm sure on a better grade of wood it would have worked fine. But for making blade cabinet for the larger cabinet I'm making, I needed thin and cheap to meet my meager budget. Luaun was $8 a sheet, I used 3 sheets.

                  Wife as some digital photo work for me to do later for the our new son's Joshua's site. I'll snap a couple photo's of what I'm working on and post them later today.

                  [ 03-21-2003, 07:05 AM: Message edited by: UO_Woody ]
                  John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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                  • #10
                    These are the 2 tray parts. The tray itself is on the left, the retainer is on the right.



                    The tray parts together (unglued)



                    And the a couple of the trays in the case. Everything is unglued at this point, but is ready to be glued up.
                    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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                    • #11
                      John,

                      That looks like a great blade storage drawer rack. I've still got mine hung up on the pegboard in the original sleeves!

                      You are fortunate however, to have 14 or so 10" blades, something that I don't think that I'll aspire to!!
                      David

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                      • #12
                        Thanks David. It's alot more work than I counted on.
                        Actaully, the cabinet I'm making holds 2 of these blade tray drawer cases. Each holding 16 blades. Not that I have any where near 32 blades, but I do have quite a few, some are the cheaper Oldhams for general work. But I have 3 saws that take 10" blades, and room to expand is a must. Plus until I find a decent place to have the good blades sharpened, it gives me a place to store the dull blades.
                        John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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                        • #13
                          Woody....

                          Advantage has carbide tipped and bi-metal hole saws in diameters to 24". If it's not a stock item they can make it for you. Great place.

                          http://advantage-drillbits.com/woodworking.html

                          Of course, you have to evaluate the costs based on how much work you're going to do with it.

                          Good luck.


                          Gary

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                          • #14
                            Thanks Gary.

                            I checked into whole saws too. The price of them things made it unconsiderable. An adjustable circle cutter fit the bill. Just couldn't find one that goes that big.

                            Perhaps I'll order one anyways, and see if I can adapt an extender and couter weight for balance. But slowing down the old Ridgid drill press enough to be safe would be another problem.
                            John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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                            • #15
                              I know that you've already cut your circles, but I just ran across this at Lee Valley Tools. It's a circle jig for your bandsaw. They say that it'll handle single circles up to 24" or multiple tangental curves.

                              Circle Jig
                              De Colores,
                              Dow
                              Boerne, TX

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