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Router table for TS

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  • Router table for TS

    Does anyone have any experience with either the Rockler or Mule router tables that fit on our saws? The Rockler table/insert is $159; the Mule table/insert is $129. They seem like good deals but it would be great to hear from anyone who has experience with them (or other tables).


  • #2
    Looks like a good idea to me. [img]smile.gif[/img] I am glad you pointed this out because I never knew such a thing existed. I am anxious to hear some feedback too. I am in the need for a good router table in the next few weeks.



    • #3
      If you know how to make a table saw extension table, I would suggest to make your own and save some money. If you've recently seen the NYW, Norm made a new router table. he used a Rockler aluminum template, but made his own fence. If you make your own extenion table and fence, and use the Rockler insert, then you should be able to do it for less than $100.


      • #4
        The Mule looks like a great deal to me....I'm going to move the fence over on my 2424 to make a 3612 and have been trying to find an extension for a router to fit into...this might be the one...I'm going to watch this thread...

        The fence doesn't have a price from what I saw...anyone know how much it is for that?

        [ 01-31-2003, 11:04 AM: Message edited by: KellyC ]
        Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>


        • #5
          Totally agree with Mike. I've done it before and it's very easy. Think you can get some ideas from Norm's station----you'll need to fabricate a fence cover, for your ts fence, to use with the router, but other than that, it's a piece of cake.


          • #6
            In all fairness to Patrick custom tables are not the intent of this thread. All he's looking for is a review of a prefab table. Some people would rather not spend all their time making tools.

            Please respect that. Thanks.


            • #7
              Doc, the basic concept of the router table between the rails is fairly easy. By the time you were to go out and pick it up from the store and unpack it, you could have built the table and had a beer. The fence is easy with MDF and a T slot bit, and if you make a box type frame, or layer the MDF, you can actually use your TS fence to align things. (true straight edge. Just be sure to build the fence out far enough so you don't hit the fence.)

              I'd also like to throw in the fact that I do own the Rockler stand alone router table. I picked it up on sale for $120, the added my own legs for about $10. The table, as well as the machined fence is nice. However, after using it somewhat I realized that I could have made the same thing for much less. I've decided that if and when I get another router, I'm going to cut out a mounting hole in my saw table and make the fence myself. [img]smile.gif[/img]


              • #8
                Bench Dog tools makes a cast iron router table add on for the Rigid table saw for $299. it replaces the left side wing. here is the link.


                expensive yes but seeems to be a better option and if you are short on space like myself will save a lot of room...



                • #9
                  The Bench Dog RT250 is made of laminated MDF, not cast iron.



                  • #10
                    Dr. Pepper----I think we are answering with practical suggestions---"please respect that"??? This is a forum----ideas flow and nobody is force to do anything. But Doc, welcome and enjoy.

                    From my perspective---this is a hobby---why wouldn't you build what you could. Unless you've got customers lining up outside, for your services, why not take the time to build something. Besides, from my experience, unless a top (or any other accessory) is specifically made to fit a particular tool, there is always some peaking and tweaking


                    • #11
                      I ordered the rockler table, and didn't like it and returned it.
                      The mule looks like a pretty good unit and does have a miter track of standard size.
                      A good fence will be the most helpful. Looks like the mule attachs to the table saw fence, be sure it's compatable, but it's affordable.
                      In any choice you make, check into return policys if you are not completely satisfied you can return it and not get stuck with something you don't want.
                      The 5/8" thick MDF top scares me! I'm assuming they have a good framework under the top to support a 3 1/4hp router they claim will fit the table top. Make sure there is a way to fasten it to the saw or wing so the fence rails don't take all the weight.
                      John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


                      • #12
                        Woody, the top scared me too until I read about the cladding on both sides of it...should be okay for heavy routers. As much as I hate MDF, if it's covered and stronger because of it, I guess it'll work!

                        As for the fence...I'd make an auxiliary for the 2400's fence and include a dust control port. It'd be a few inches thick to prevent fence damage....that'd save enough money to warrant buying the table instead of making one (since this isn't just a hobby for me)....

                        [ 02-01-2003, 09:50 PM: Message edited by: KellyC ]
                        Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>


                        • #13
                          The consensus is to build my own extension table. It would be a little cheaper to build one myself but one thing I’m unsure of is supporting the table and a large router. Time is an issue too – I just started building a child’s bed and I have 150bf of cherry waiting to be turned into my kitchen cabinets – my hobby is a practical one . The Mule is MDF and aluminum – I’m guessing you attach the aluminum to the cast iron table. With only MDF/hardwood for an extension table I don’t know how to attach it to the main table and then maintain rigidity - I wouldn’t want to use the rails to support the extension table to any large degree. It seems that if you bolted MDF/hardwood to the main table you could break it off if there was too much weight on the outboard edge. You could support it with angle iron or extruded aluminum but I wouldn’t want it to look like an afterthought. So…I was hoping to save some time by finding a table that would work and that I could drop in.

                          KellyC - just moved my rails right; my saw is now a 40R/10L (maxed out). It's well worth it.


                          • #14
                            40/10 huh...did you have to drill holes to get it that far over?

                            I think the Mule might be for me...the cost is right...
                            Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>


                            • #15
                              Looks ain't everything, workability is?
                              And Kelly, I played around with my fence rails. I can get 52" right of the blade, zip-o on the left.
                              In fact the fence fell short about 1/16 of an inch to get to the blade. But I didn't like the rails past the extension that far. Guess I'll have to make a larger extension.

                              [ 02-02-2003, 05:10 AM: Message edited by: UO_Woody ]
                              John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>