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nicks in cutters, JP0610

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  • nicks in cutters, JP0610

    6-1/8 jointer/planer, bought in summer, just set up yesterday. I think I've just been taught my first lesson in woodworking humility. Planed off some oak scraps (see below), surface was beautiful. Came back several hours later, did more, found several striations in the wood. Looked at the cutters, and found some very small nicks.

    I think that last piece of wood I did somehow nicked the cutters. My confession: the wood is not surfaced from a shop, rather, it is oak I'm trying to recover from palettes. Now, I DID carefully inspect the wood - certainly no nails or the like; I even hand sanded the surface a bit to take off whatever might have been on there; however, the wood is obviously not in supurb condition, and could have all kinds of hard-to-see bits of crap embedded.

    So, to my embarrassed questions:

    1. Now that I've ruined my brand new cutters, should I just use them to finish the load of wood, then switch to new cutters? Maybe even keep these cutters for future similar work?

    2. I'm not quite sure how to relate to you the size of the nicks on the cutters. They are "small" but the result can be easily seen with the eye and felt with the finger on the wood itself. Should I even tackle resharpening? Obviously, I'll have to take off enough metal all the way across to remove the nick(s).

    I'm talking about 2 of the 3 blades having one nick each that's easy to spot on close examination, and the 3rd blade with 2 nicks like that. Based on looking at the wood, I think there are a few smaller nicks that can't be seen easily on the blades themselves.

    So who has advice, or knuckle-raps, for me? BTW, I have the Ridgid planer also, with undamaged cutters, so I can still run this wood through and give it a good finish.

    What I really want to know is, just how do I tackle wood like this? Should I be running it through a power sander before the jointer?

  • #2
    Always sand rough wood that may be dirty before planing or jointing. the dirt in the wood caused the nicks in the blades. I have a pile of rough air dried wood that as I plane it piece by piece, I use the belt sander to get everything I can off, yet my knives are still taking a beating. best advice is to not use pallet wood. Over time, dragging it across floors can really imbed many damaging things.


    • #3
      First question----did you use a metal detector? You said "inspected" but, knowing the way nails and staples can "hide"---visual inspection may not be good enoough. Add to this, if these pallets have been used on asphalt or any surface where the wood could pick up cinders, stones, etc., you'd be in just as much trouble as if you'd hit a nail. Frankly, while recycling wood is a noble venture, recycling pallets is much more work than most, and potentially has your expensive outcome. If you just had to recycle a pallet, I'd definately use a belt sander and forget the jointer or planer.

      As to saving your cutters/knives, I'm no expert at sharpening, but would say this would require a good jig made for jointer knives----such as one of the low rpm wet sharpeners, etc. Or, you could buy another set and send out the nicked set for sharpening---always a good idea to have an extra set.


      • #4
        I think buying another set and sending these out for sharpening is a pretty good idea. Novice question: where do I go to get them sharpened? I wouldn't expect most hardware stores to have that expertise - do I look for woodworking stores and take them there?


        • #5
          Sharpening services are like barbers---when you finally find a good one, stick with them. I took my jointer knives to the local Woodcraft----they used a sharpening service and sent them out. Price ended up being more than the estimate and looked like someone had just run them through a grinder once----not a smooth job.

          I'd look in the yellow pages under sharpening or saw sharpening and try them out on one item to see how well they do----another thought----call a local cabinet shop and ask who they'd recommend.


          • #6
            I would finish up all the wood...Then I would see if I could move one of the blades a little to the right or left keeping the height the same..This will remove the strip you are seeing..Then go get a new set of blades to have on hand for when you need them...


            • #7
              Hi! This is going to sound weird to most of you, but if you can't find some one good to sharpen the blades where you live, contact someone that shows dogs in your area. We have to sharpen clipper blades and scissors, even thinning shears for dog grooming. At most of the larger dog shows there will be someone set up to sharpen these items, and I bet they could do the knives. They are trusted with clipping blades as that start at 25.00 each, up to thinning sheers and scissors worth 75.00 to 140.00 each, so most are very reputable. These businesses have boothes in the dog shows, much like the Wood Workers convention I went to here in the DFW area yesterday. [Sure wish I had had more time (mainly more MONEY!) to spend there. But came home with a Delta 17-685 drill press, and a JoinTech TS jig. My wife wouldn't let me go back today!!] Hope this helps! Jim.
              At the least I'm Pentatoxic...most likely I'm a Pentaholic. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, season 3.


              • #8
                >Then I would see if I could move one of the blades a
                >little to the right or left keeping the height the same..
                >This will remove the strip you are seeing..

                How so? Every pass in the jointer removes a layer of wood... That is, every run through the jointer is a new cut, so I would just move the raised strip to the side by the amount I moved the blade over, no? I agree that would work on a planer, but not the jointer I think. (I apologize if I aligned the quote wrong)


                • #9
                  The nicks will not be inline with each other there fore after a nicked blade passes a place on the wood the next blade will remove the spot the first blade missed...unless your jointer is turning really slow and you are pushing the wood through way to fast...

                  But like I said do all the wood first before moving them because most likly with your dirty wood you will just put more nicks in the blades..

                  Also sanding the wood first is bad thing to do..sometimes a grain of sand comes of the belt and is inbedded into the wood...

                  Best thing is to have a second jointer for making the first clean up cuts in dirty wood.

                  [ 12-07-2003, 06:36 PM: Message edited by: rrmcbride ]


                  • #10
                    I agree with Rrmcbride. I have offset my jointer blades because of a nick. It works like a charm. I have a jig to set the blade height so it takes all of 2 minutes.
                    Although, you do need to reset the blades if you are going to use the rabbetting feature.
                    Steve [img]tongue.gif[/img]


                    • #11
                      >The nicks will not be inline with each other there fore
                      >after a nicked blade passes a place on the wood the
                      >next blade will remove the spot the first blade missed...

                      Ah, I see what you're saying now. Only issue will be if the really small nicks are too numerous to counter with this method. But this begs a question - surely these knives, being as sharp as they are, develop nicks anyway - surely everyone runs a "bad" piece of wood through from time to time and nicks a blade. Obviously the severity of a nick is relative, depending on what one is trying to do with the wood that is jointed/planed. Doesn't everyone live with some of these imperfections in practice, or is it really possible to keep these knives in virtually pristine shape?


                      • #12
                        I'm sure most of us just grab our ROS and knock off the ridge....I'm sure not going to buy new blades every time I get a nick....


                        • #13
                          A good set of blades cost....??? $
                          Click Here for what I call an inexpensive solution to replacing, or sharpening service charge.

                          Well worth the investment IMO. Especially with a couple good wet stones.

                          Get a second set of knifes. Alternate them, and keep the second set on hand fully sharp for the need when doing a fine project. I use 3 sets of knifes myself. And when I find a HD that has a set, I'll have 4 sets.
                          John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by jeglin:
                            however, the wood is obviously not in supurb condition, and could have all kinds of hard-to-see bits of crap embedded.
                            have you thought about ripping the edges with a table saw to remove any material that may be contaminating the edge? you'd lose considerable material, but saw blades are much more durable and cheaper.

                            if the wood is contaminated the whole way through, you may want to consider cutting your losses and buying oak from a wholesaler. it may be cheaper than replacing blades.