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TS3650 arbor problem with dado sets

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  • sorry guys one more thing, I do give ridgid credit for getting this issue resolved except for the fact that they should have sent instructions also ans a new nut, i look forward to better cs from them
    Just my opinion


    • So given the isses with replacing the arbor, how soon do you all think the "improved" arbor will be showing up on new 3650s? I'd hate to buy one knowing it has a defect that will be fixed soon.


      • Well everyone, the arbor problem has also been noticed in our new TS3650. We've contacted RIDGID tech support and she told us that they had ordered a lot of new arbors and that we were to contact them in about 2 to 3 weeks. She (tech) told us that the local RIDGID repair place in our area would receive new arbors for those that needed them and that she would advise us of when they arrived.

        Should we be cautious that this will is a deferral of the issue until the 90 day return warranty is up or do we hope we have been taken care of by RIDGID?


        • Anne,
          I don't think you have to be worried because 1. I had my saw for over 6 months and just received my new arbor free of charge and 2. even if it was a deferral (which I don't think) as long as you contacted them within the 90 days it doesn't matter how long it takes them.
          On another note everybody, my arbor was sent to me by Ryobi. Is the TS3650 made by Ryobi? I always thought that Ryobi made low budget tools.


          • Anne,

            I believe you will be taken care of by RIDGID. After emailing them for my new arbor, it arrived a couple of days later. In addition, it would help me to have one of those exploded views of the saw and I emailed CS and requested one. They responded with the diagram the next day. Since then, lots of folks have emailed or contacted them for replacement arbors and RIDGID seems to be standing up to the problem. I can imagine their immediate supply has gotten low hence the 2 to 3 week delay now.

            You can check another thread on this forum and find where several of us reported we were sent new arbors and some of these folks have already replaced theirs.

            Welcome to the forum!

            It is impossible to make anything foolproof because fools are so ingenious.


            • Many parts do come from what shows up as the Ryobi Warehouse, Karsten. Ryobi does not own RIDGID, nor vice versa. Several of the companies use common parts, and farm out their manufacturing to other companies. For example, the Emerson Electric unit known as RIDGID actually has the stationary tools like the 3650 made for them, and lend their RIDGID name to the product. One World Technologies (OWT) makes the saw (has most of it made in Taiwan, I believe, or Mainland China). OWT also manufacturers for Ryobi, if memory serves me correctly.

              On a similar note, I recently bought a "Jenn-Aire" stainless steel outdoor gas grill. There is really nothing Jenn-Aire about it, except that they lend their name to it. This is becoming a very common practice in manufacturing, especially with woodworking equipment. I'm not sure how involved Emerson (RIDGID) gets in creating specs for the manufacture of their products like the 3650 or if they make quality control minimum requirements on the items they farm out. It is in their interest to do so, however, as it carries their name.
              There are three kinds of people in this world - those who can count, and those who can't.


              • Steve---sorry, but you're wrong----the same company owns Ryobi and produces Ridgid tools under license from Emerson---Emerson doesn't make one Ridgid ww'ing tool any more.


                • Now that I think about it, you are correct, Dave. OWT's parent company, Techtronic Industries , now has under its belt RIDGID, Ryobi, Homelite, Dirt Devil and Regina, and recently completed the acquisition of Milwaukee.

                  My bad.
                  There are three kinds of people in this world - those who can count, and those who can't.


                  • This is just to add to the explanations by strong330 for changing arbor without dissambling nor rolling over the saw.

                    Some detail will seem too obvious to some but are included for the benefit of those less mech-inclined. The change out really is less difficult than some have made it out to be.

                    You work from the back of the saw.

                    Remove the blade guard assemblies, including the mounting post. You have to realign this when done.

                    Remove the dust shroud cover.
                    Remove blade. Duh.

                    Remove the belt. Tilt motor up and slip belt off pulleys.

                    Cranking the carriage all the way down (lowest blade position) and cranking the bevel all the way over, gives all the room you will need.

                    Remove the Arbor pulley set screw.
                    Wriggle the pulley off, (it's tight) being sure to catch the small hidden keyway key piece which catches slot in end of arbor.

                    Remove the retaining ring.
                    My retaining ring was a snap ring (had holes for use with snap ring pliers. I bought the snap ring pliers. Got a decent Set with 2 angle pryers tips and large and small straight pryer tips for $10 at VIP autoparts.)(Or HD carries 2 single tip models. $20 for either one, both larger than you need for this job.)
                    Otherwise you can twist ring off like strong330 did and replace it with a new one. Mine was only a little bent so I flattened it out with vice, needle nosed, and hammer. It does have to be right on the money flat though. You'll want/need full snap-in engagement in the arbor groove. When you get to putting on the new ring, snap ring pliers help you get it on without twisitng it. Also. So when inserting new arbor - you'll be making sure all saw dust/grease/crud is cleaned from bearing face on the arbro flange end, else that slot for the ring on the new arbor might not get fully exposed. Something I might have done real easy normally. You just don't want to have to whack the new arbor back out and reclean, just to get the cleaner fit for the ring.

                    Back to Removing old arbor:
                    You do not need a brass punch. I used the plasitc handle on a good Craftsman 14" screwdriver which had a wide enough flat face on one side of the handle. Started with a 1 lb. ballpeen but eventually found that lighter blows with the side of a 3 lb. hammer worked better, plenty clearance for backswing. Held the screwdriver handle in horizontally, Reached underneath with the sledge.
                    "Light coaxing" I guess is a relative description.
                    With the sledge and hammer handle just work your way up till it starts to move. I guess it's coaxing but it's more than "tapping".

                    Apparently some had probs with the bearing coming loose so once you get the arbor moving, stop and take a look at the Bearing seated on the other end. Mine stayed put. Praise be!

                    As you get arbor most of the way out you can crank the saw carriage bevel back some to give yourself more clearance at the flange end of the arbor. Nobody said Ridgid's asking for old arbors back but I didn't want to shoot and ding it - might be handy if you ever need a machine shop to copy you a 1/4" longer arbor.

                    Once you crank back for clearance you can go for sledging it past the other bearing. Sledge allows for being gentler actually. You don't have to wail on it. But now the arbor end is hidden. If you have a wide enough brass punch fine, otherwise a 3" (up to 6") 5/16" bolt works okay if you wrap some masking tape around it several times to protect bearings.

                    Finally just crank the bevel all the way back up square, drop some 3-in-One on the new arbor and have at it again with the sledge. Load snap ring onto pliers, squeeze and she'll slide right over the end of new arbor, and down into the arbor ring slot.

                    Now follow OEM manual procedure for setting up motor and belt. Don't just slap the belt on there and go 'cause your arbor pulley position may be different now.

                    When running smooth do the blade, dust shroud and blade guard mounting.


                    • Sorry. Above post was pasted into the wrong thread.

                      Was written for another thread about current corrected arbor replacement obviously.

                      IMO this thread should continue in earnest with trying to get this Dado Sets Issue resolved with similar success.

                      Should be noted here that if they were to eventually be persuaded to go with a longer arbor for the 3650, they might also have to come up with a modification or replacement for the dust shroud as there isn't a lot of clearance there now for swapping any blade in or out. Plenty of room on the backside (outside) however for such a dust shroud modification.


                      • what's the best method for ensuring tbe pulley-side bearing stays in place as you insert the new arbor shaft?

                        Is there a website that has the bearings for the TS650? I live in Los Angeles fyi. I need a new one cause i ruined one taking out the old arbor.


                        • Thomas,

                          Dont know if you are aware that you can order parts from Ridgid Parts or not, but if not, here it is.

                          Well, should have tried my suggestion before suggesting it. Seems for some reason they do not list the 3650 on the web page I provided. I have a parts diagram and the bearings are Ridgid part number HJ032000 but could not get info on them from web page either. Guess you could call Ridgid at 1-866-539-1710 and ask them about it. If you do, ask them why they do not show it on their web site for parts ordering.


                          [ 07-31-2005, 08:35 AM: Message edited by: steelewoodworker ]
                          It is impossible to make anything foolproof because fools are so ingenious.


                          • i'll have to wait till monday, they're closed


                            • Originally posted by keith911
                              I f i were you smashp i would call ridgid 1-800-4-ridgid get c.s. and ask for larry snyder, the new ones are said not to be flawed ones, did you send in the warrenty card?? i do not think that matters
                              Copied from the header on your post: 01-03-2005, 05:06 PM.

                              I bought mine on 02-16-2006. It has a manufacturing date of late (October, I think) 1995. I checked the date before I bought the saw, expecting that the problem had been resolved by then. Lo and behold, it has the faulty arbor too. In addition, the table surface is nowhere near flat. When the saw first starts it makes this rattling sound for a second or so before smothing out. I am mucho pi55ed about this.

                              Ridgid has a serious case of HUA. They need to bend over as far as they can, grab their ears and pull their heads out.

                              I'm so mad and disgusted, I could call Larry Snider and swear a blue streak. I won't do this though, because it wouldn't accomplish anything but create hostility.

                              I feel like pushing them to deliver a new saw to my house and set it up. He77, I did it the first time expecting to have a machine that measured up to all the rave reviews I'd read about it on this and numerous other fora.

                              Oh well, ca ca pasa.

                              The land of the free
                              Because of the brave


                              • acemery,

                                I did not have an arbor problem with the TS3650, but I did have problems with table flatness. In the end I returned the saw because I did not want to wait for Ridgid to send another top. Now I am saving for a Craftsman 22124. You never know ....... even with high end tools it seems that you can get a bad top. Just for your info Ridgid told me their table flatness tolerance was
                                .016 . You can get a new top from Ridgid if you don't mind waiting. I decided the go Craftsman because just about wherever you live there is a Sears repair center around the corner.... just my 2 cents.

                                ps. i also bought the ts3650 because of the great reviews...... live and learn