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R4511 Assembly Hints

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  • #16
    Re: R4511 Assembly Hints
    1. Don't mess with the trunions.
    2. On the left side of the cabinet, on the outside, are two bolts. Take those out. Make sure that you get the grounding strap with the front one and keep all of the washers with it.
    3. On the right side, open the door and side the door are two holes in the frame. There's a bolt in each one. When you remove these two bolts, the big flat washers will stay in the housing. Take them out and put them where you won't lose them.
    4. LIFT, don't slide the table off of the cabinet. There may be shims under it, and you need to make sure that they stay where they are (I taped mine down when I took the top off to move it into the shop).

    Hope this helps.
    De Colores,
    Dow
    Boerne, TX

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    • #17
      Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

      Originally posted by dow View Post
      1. Don't mess with the trunions.
      2. On the left side of the cabinet, on the outside, are two bolts. Take those out. Make sure that you get the grounding strap with the front one and keep all of the washers with it.
      3. On the right side, open the door and side the door are two holes in the frame. There's a bolt in each one. When you remove these two bolts, the big flat washers will stay in the housing. Take them out and put them where you won't lose them.
      4. LIFT, don't slide the table off of the cabinet. There may be shims under it, and you need to make sure that they stay where they are (I taped mine down when I took the top off to move it into the shop).

      Hope this helps.
      Thanks for the info!!

      Did the swap without issue. Did notice that 2 of the bolts on both mine and the saw in store were loose. Kinda glad I did the swap so I knew about the loose ones.

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

        Got my saw home via trailer on Saturday...man oh man did all of the previous advice in this thread help! Here's my own personal experience with it:

        1. Transported via 16' bumper hitch flatbed trailer, with help from one other individual. Had the dudes at Depot load it on the trailer for me.

        2. Uncrated in the driveway, on the trailer. No surprises here, most of the crate and mounting bolts were already loose!

        3. CAREFULLY tipped the saw, with top still attached, onto its back on top of the pallet, then scooted the cabinet forward until about 3" of cabinet was overhanging the pallet. This part is important, because it'll provide clearance between the saw cabinet and floor, which in turn comes in handy for...

        4. Assemble and attach the legs with the saw on its back.

        5. Attach the dust chute.

        6. Assemble and attach the herc-u-lift. FYI, the only thing that'll potentially trip you up is "small hole up." Pay close attention to the orientation of these holes or you'll be doing re-work.

        7. CAREFULLY tip the saw forward onto its feet. I used help on this, but
        as a man of average strength I would have been able to do it solo.

        8. Lift the saw down from trailer. Definitely a two man job, but not too
        difficult with two fairly stout guys. The come-along-from-the-rafters idea is a good one, but without the benefit of exposed rafters, an A-frame or an engine crane good 'ol brute force was fine.

        9. With a little help the Herc-u-lift castors will cope with surprisingly rough terrain. I don't know that it's a great idea to roll it across garage thresholds, etc. on a daily basis, but just this once it didn't seem to hurt anything.

        10. Make the final assembly inside, in comfort, with the saw upright and supporting itself.

        I didn't have any problems at all with the instructions. They're a bit on the vague side, but if you've any mechanical aptitude at all I can't imagine that there are any showstoppers contained therein.

        I did, however, place all of the parts bags together (with open bags but fasteners still in 'em) on a table to allow me to compare different fasteners prior to beginning the assembly of subcomponents. As a rule, if it'll fit then it's the proper fastener. The differing lengths of bolts for the Herc-u-lift might make for a bit of head scratching, but most of those are clearly defined by size in the instructions.

        And as I previously mentioned, all of the info I gleaned from this and other related threads previously made all the difference in the world.

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

          Dave,

          Do you have any recommendation on getting the miter gauge to slide smoother in the slot? Its not too bad in the slot itself but it seems to screatch on the top when sliding across the top??? Sort of like nails on a chaulk board??

          THanks!

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          • #20
            Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

            Hi csoler01,

            My miter tracks were also quite rough, particularly the sides. I wrapped some 400 and 600 grit sandpaper around a 1/2 " x 2" cross section stick to sand the bottom and sides of the miter slot. I didn't want to get too aggressive with the sanding for fear of widening the slot. After wiping the slot well with water to remove all the granite dust, I let it dry then waxed the bottom and sides of the slot. I also waxed the bottom and sides of the miter gauge bar, as well as the bottom surface of the gauge that rests against the table. This helps it slide smoothly along the table. I still haven't waxed my table top, which should improve things even more. I wanted to seal the granite first.

            For now, I've removed the small metal piece at the tip of the miter bar that rides within the T slot at the bottom of the miter slot. I figure this piece increases the chance of chipping the granite if the miter gauge is incorrectly stressed/bumped. My plan is to build a cross-cut sled anyway.

            Dave
            Last edited by DaveWoodWork; 05-04-2009, 05:37 PM. Reason: correction

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            • #21
              Where's the manual??

              Josh, why is there no link on the web page
              for a PDF copy of the R4511 manual?

              All the other saws have one?
              "When we build let us think we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work that our descendants will thank us for, and let us think, as we lay stone upon stone, that a time is to come when these stones will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, "See! This our fathers did for us."
              John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                Dave,

                Once again thanks for the info. What kind of wax did you use?

                I agree on removing the small plate at the tip of the bar....will definitely help the whole worring about chipping the entrance to the miter slot.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                  I used Renaissance wax that I bought a while back on sale at Woodcraft and a description can also be found here. This stuff is expensive and I bought it because several people on a different forum recommended it for protecting their metal tool surfaces in addition to it producing a superb finish on wood. If I didn't have it, I'd probably just use some Johnson's Paste Wax or something similar. See this thread on waxes. Another Renaissance review.

                  Dave

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                  • #24
                    Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                    Still waiting on HD for delivery of mine, bought it last Sunday. After looking at the miter gauge in the store as well as the Incra I already have, I plan to make a new keeper for the end of the rail out of UHMW polyethylene. Should be strong enough to keep the miter gauge in the slot, but soft enough to prevent cracking the granite.

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                    • #25
                      Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                      Originally posted by csoler01 View Post
                      Dave,

                      When screwed on the dust chute did it sit flush so the rubber tape or whatever sealed the openings helping with dust collection? I seem to have a thin gap around all four sides???? Probably a 16th or so.

                      Thanks...
                      I can't get the fourth screw to line up when attaching the dust chute - anyone else?

                      Also, I'm convinced Ridgid screwed up on the design. The intent was to have the dust chute sit between the legs and base, hence the sealing strips, but the welded brackets in the corners prevent that from being done. The mold for the chute needs to be redesigned.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                        Originally posted by Smack View Post
                        I can't get the fourth screw to line up when attaching the dust chute - anyone else?

                        Also, I'm convinced Ridgid screwed up on the design. The intent was to have the dust chute sit between the legs and base, hence the sealing strips, but the welded brackets in the corners prevent that from being done. The mold for the chute needs to be redesigned.
                        Agreed. If they ever do fix the mold, would be nice to get a new one (although installation would be a major heartache)

                        I suppose we can just add more tape to fill the gap.

                        And lining up the screws was kinda tough. Helps to loosen all of the leg bolts, then let the dust chute "square" the legs. In my case, I didnt pay full attention to the instructions, so I ended up screwing the chute on with the saw cabinet already resting on the legs. Couldnt quite get the 4th screw: the hole in the chute to go over the cabinet to leg bolt was hitting..........little swipe with a dremel fixed that, then I was able to manhandle the 4th screw in.
                        Last edited by chrisexv6; 05-09-2009, 05:52 PM.

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                        • #27
                          Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                          I did pretty much the same solution, drilled out the nut hole a bit and enlarge/elongated the hole for the chute screw.

                          Now, I'm having a hell of a time getting the 90 and 45 set right with the bevel indicator being right. I really don't understand what the set screws (the ones accessible throught the top of granite) are supposed to do. I don't see them moving the blade one bit after backing them out then tightening again. Can anyone explain this process better than the manual?

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                            Originally posted by Smack View Post
                            I did pretty much the same solution, drilled out the nut hole a bit and enlarge/elongated the hole for the chute screw.

                            Now, I'm having a hell of a time getting the 90 and 45 set right with the bevel indicator being right. I really don't understand what the set screws (the ones accessible throught the top of granite) are supposed to do. I don't see them moving the blade one bit after backing them out then tightening again. Can anyone explain this process better than the manual?
                            I actually started a thread on this, and the consensus was not to rely on the stops

                            From what I can tell, the screw IS the stop.........as the trunion moves when you are bevelling, there are 2 flat spots on the sides of it. One flat spot will come in contact with the 90 degree and the other with the 45 degree stop.

                            You are literally moving the screws up and down to allow the trunion to travel that little bit more or less to make a perfect 45 or 90. The manual says the screw should eventually move the blade, but I dont see that happening either (maybe the trunion is built better than the manual writers expected? )

                            Ive gotten mine as close as I can, and will use my Wixey digital angle gauge to bring the blade to the exact degree I need when cutting. So, if you cant get it dead on, you actually want the 90 to be *past* 90, and the 45 to be *past* 45, so you can use the handwheel to bring it back to 90 or 45 when you need em.

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                            • #29
                              Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                              I resolved the bevel gauge by grabbing the red indicator arrow and tweaking it. Had it at 90, tweaked to read zero, then it read pretty much on at 45. But yea, I need to get a angle gauge.


                              Another Hint: Take the gray motor cover off and leave it off until you 100% done.

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                              • #30
                                Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                                Here's a question for everyone. The blade is parallel to the T-slots, fence is parallel to blade and slots. I zeroed out the T-Bar gauge (red line), on the left it measures right on at 6" and 3", on the right, it's right on at 6" but close to a 1/16" off at 3". What the hell? Measured the scale and it seems accurate. I have no idea, anyone else?

                                Also, re: the miter guage, there's two screws at the end holding a piece of metal used to adjust the play in the slot, the screw on the end of mine will not budge, even tried some "freeze off". Anyone else with this issue? There's quite a bit of play in mine.
                                Last edited by Smack; 05-10-2009, 07:31 PM.

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