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R4511 Assembly Hints

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  • #31
    Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

    Did you measure the distance between the right edge of the left slot and the left edge of the right slot, both front and back? The error may be in the manufacture.

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    • #32
      Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

      are you talking about the slots? The error is in between the fence and blade per the ruler scale

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      • #33
        Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

        Good evening everybody,

        I am in the process of assembling my 4511 and I have a question. When I raise and lower the blade, it moves nice and smooth. When I adjust the bevel, it is not so smooth, it is kind of "griity" feeling. It also "wines" a bit when going back to zero. It also takes a little bit of work to move the bevel knob. Is this normal. This forum and woodworker rookie appreciates your response.

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        • #34
          Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

          Try loosening the plastic T-nut you screwed on to put the handle on.

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          • #35
            Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

            Thanks, that made a big difference.

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            • #36
              Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

              Ok. brought home a R4511 last night and had to put it in storage for a while. I took the top off to lighten it up to get it out of my truck. Unfortunately I hadn't read the post about checking for shims under the top and now I am afraid they were there, and are now lost. Questions are, would they have been there only if the top of the base was not even at all four bolt down points? Will I be able to check for this when I eventually put the top back on? Is it just a matter of sitting the top back on and seeing of there are any gaps? Would not having shims (if they are needed) cause alignment issues? I suppose this would create unwanted stresses in the granite top if the mounting locatings are not all the same height with respect to each other.

              btw, since the Ultimate Power deal was so good I bought a TS2410LS, R4330 planer, the joiner (can't remember the model number), the oscillating sander, and the Milwaukee 12" sliding miter. I bought them all with 3 separate purchases and saved a total of $750 plus tax. I probably wouldn't have bought the TS2410 if I had known I was going to talk myself into a $4511, but I needed a better portable saw anyway. I have always wanted a good cabinet style saw, so I am excited about being able to do more with the R4511 than my 10" delta tabletop saw.

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              • #37
                Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                I *think* the shims are there to make sure the table doesnt rock. So basically you should be able to figure out where they are needed by plopping the tbale top back on and pushing down on the front/back/sides to see where the rocking is, then add shims where needed.

                Interestingly enough, when I had to swap my main table top with a saw in store, the saw I swapped with did not have shims. While I reused the shims that came with my original top, it makes me wonder if the shims should have gone with the old top, and NOT been reused with the new top.

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                • #38
                  Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                  Originally posted by chrisexv6 View Post
                  I *think* the shims are there to make sure the table doesnt rock. So basically you should be able to figure out where they are needed by plopping the tbale top back on and pushing down on the front/back/sides to see where the rocking is, then add shims where needed.
                  I believe this to be correct. When I took the table off of my saw to get it unloaded, I dropped a shim and didn't now where it went, except that it was one of two holes. When I set the top back on, I check for wobble, and put the shim where the wobble seemed to be.
                  De Colores,
                  Dow
                  Boerne, TX

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                  • #39
                    Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                    Thanks guys. That's what I was thinking, but wanted other opinions..

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                    • #40
                      Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                      I believe the shims are primarily used in aligning the saw for bevel cuts. Someone else more knowledgeable than me can chime in on this. Check your run-out with the blade set at 45 degrees. It would be my guess that it would be significantly out if you have removed all the shims. They are factory set so that the table will remain in alignment with the blade on bevel cuts.

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                      • #41
                        Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                        Shims are used to align the table surface to the arbor. If these two are not parallel, even with the miter slot-to-blade alignment dead on at 0 degrees, as you change the blade angle the alignment changes.

                        After aligning the blade to the miter slot at 0 degrees, you should check the alignment with the blade at 45 degrees. If it is off, you then start adding shims to correct.
                        Last edited by tomapple; 05-14-2009, 07:05 AM.

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                        • #42
                          Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                          Now my question is, do the shims go with the *table top* or with the *cabinet*?

                          i.e. I changed my table top because of a chip. Should I have used the shim pack that was on the saw I swapped from, or should I have used the shim pack that was on my saw before changing the top?

                          I suppose I can just double check the 45, but figured Id ask.

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                          • #43
                            Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                            Assuming both tables have their top and bottom surfaces cut parallel to one another, same shim settings should apply. But if it was me, I would still check it.

                            The alignment and shims are not necessarily perfect from the factory...any movement of the trunion during shipping can change alignment.

                            FW indicated their test saw was off substantially and I added shims to mine when setting it up...

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                            • #44
                              Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                              Will check that tonight.

                              Although Im a little confused.........if you take a Wixey angle gauge and "zero" it out to your table, then just stick it to the blade, arent you gauranteed an accurate angle measurement in relation to the table?

                              To check the shimming necessary, would I bevel the blade to "45" which may or may not be a true 45 anyway ?

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                              • #45
                                Re: R4511 Assembly Hints

                                We are dealing with multiple planes as well as a pivot point....

                                When you align the blade to the miter slot, yes you are aligned...at that angle and that moment. But, if the tables top is not running parallel (in all directions) to a plane going through the centerline of the arbor..as soon as you start chaging the blade angle, it changes the blades alignment to the slot. The further you go towards 45 degress the worse it will get.

                                I hope that is clear...

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