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4511 Fence Adjustments

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  • 4511 Fence Adjustments

    I wanted to start a new thread on the 4511 fence adjustment as even though there are good suggestions in other threads, I am still not able to tell if my fence is properly set up.

    Out of the box, I saw the following that needed to be adjusted:

    1. There was a large uneven gap between the fence and granite. Two white plastic screws (very hard to turn) on the T-bar could be turned in but still the front/T-bar side seems much higher than the back. Is this expected? If I decide to add UHMW to either side of the fence, should I honor this gap, or use that opportunity to close it?

    2. The lock handle pushes down very easily and doesn't seem to hold well. Two black allen screws on the T-bar can be adjusted to push the ends of a bar/pads on the inside of the T-bar. This does result in the lock handle closing much tighter (but see #3). These black screws are also used to square the fence to the miter slots / blade.

    3. The rear of the fence does not secure. The gap between the hook and rear guide is about 1/4", even after try to adjust the hook mount. In addition, adjusting the lock handle in #2 above makes this hook gap larger. This leaves me wondering which is preferred - a strong lock on the front, or a small hook gap at the rear.

    4. When the lock handle is pushed down, the rear of the fence can be lifted up freely about 1/8" until the hook hits the rear guide. Maybe this is just the design and the T-bar at the front is supposed to do all the holding in place, without the extra tension created by the hook on the rear pushing against the guide.

    If anyone has seen these and has any more suggestions I would appreciate it.


  • #2
    Re: 4511 Fence Adjustments

    There is another thread on this board with a lot of info relating to this fence. Fortunately, like many others have stated, mine is perfect after alignment.

    Big G


    • #3
      Re: 4511 Fence Adjustments

      Hi Tim,

      I had written up a little guide on my fence experience.

      The hook at the rear of the fence should NOT make any contact with the rear rail at any time. I assume it's there for safety to keep the rail from lifting, particularly in the event of a kickback.

      The two white round glide pads that thread into the upper aspect of the T bracket I also found to be quite tight. I had to use pliers to turn mine, which adjusts the height of the front of the fence above the table top. I know I need about 1/8 inch clearance so sawdust doesn't keep the board being ripped from making close contact with the fence. My understanding is that any auxiliary fence face you put on should have at least a 1/8 inch rabbit on the bottom for this same reason, if you make it flush with the table top.

      Attached Files


      • #4
        Re: 4511 Fence Adjustments

        Dave - thanks so much for the pdf and tips. It sounds like I am close and just need to adjust a couple more things. It's good to know about a functional need for the gap too.


        • #5
          Re: 4511 Fence Adjustments

          Upon inspection of my fence assy, I have found a few things.
          1. nothing was welded squarly.
          2. If it is set up so that is is parallell with the blade when clamped, it is not when is is unclamped.

          As far as the welding goes, it is not square to the tabel in any dimension. It really makes ripping small parts difficult. Not to mention the blade insert is about as flat as a roller coaster.
          I am having a very difficult time getting this fence set up. I was wondering if I should just try to return it and see if I can get a new one that might be welded up better.


          • #6
            Re: 4511 Fence Adjustments

            I called the Ridgid tech support on my fence. I was a bit dissapointed in the conversation. The lady on the phone said she knew of only one adjustment on the fence. I told her there were more and tried to explain it to her. She then said if I can't get it working right I would have to bring it back to the store where I purchased it (HD). I asked if I would have to bring the entire saw in. She said "yes, you will have to return the entire saw."
            Ummm I am not really sure what to say about that.


            • #7
              Re: 4511 Fence Adjustments

              I had a similar experience- talked to someone at CS, but all she could say was to adjust the set-screw. I'm not even sure if she knew what it means, or just read it from the manual. then after I told her I had already tried all the adjustement methods , she suggested I take the fence to a local authorized repair shop, so that they can check it ... I don't really have the time to even do that, nor am I sure there's anything they can do about it.


              • #8
                Re: 4511 Fence Adjustments

                Out of the box my fence required a little adjustment but not much. I had a slight adjustment to the heighth above table and also parallel.

                Like PurpLev I had a slight movement when I was locking down, the fence was not locking parallel to miter slots or blade. I fixed that by adjusting the pads on the back of the fence and now it locks solid and parallel across the range. Once I adjusted those pads I put a little Locktite on the threads.
                I would suspect that on this style of fence the quality of the weld can be a big factor.


                • #9
                  Re: 4511 Fence Adjustments

                  Out of curiousity I checked my fence before work. I see that on mine one of the adjustment pads is not quite parallel with the tube.
                  As I face the saw the gray pad located behind the tube on the left closest to the blade fits square and flush when locked down. The one on the right angles slightly away from the tube so that the top of it hits before the bottom. This was probably affecting my parallel and movement when locking down. So on mine the pad that fits flush is adjusted in towards the tube a lot more than the one on the right. The right one is backed out so that when the fence is locked down the top third of the pad contacts the tube and you can see a gap for the bottom two thirds.
                  I remembered making this adjustment and wondering why I had the screws adjusted so differently, but hadn't really worried about it since the fence was locking tight and square. You might check yours to see how they are aligned. I hope this helps.