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TS3650 - Help ? (kerf marks)

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  • TS3650 - Help ? (kerf marks)

    I very recently bought a TS3650 and to my dismay, and in spite of a variety of different blades, including the Forrest installed now, this saw make a rather rough rip. That is to say, its almost as though the saw is beating the material and the ripped piece emerges with imbedded kerf marks instead of a smoothed finish.

    Could anyone (please) offer any advice ?

    Thanks

    Ian K.

  • #2
    Welcome Ian, it sounds like you have an alignment problem. Your blade, fence, or possibly both aren't properly aligned with the miter slot. When I first got my saw, it took me several attempts to get the alignment where it should be. Get out your manual and go through the alignment process again.
    I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.

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    • #3
      I second Badger Dave's advice. It may be a little frustrating at first, but it's certainly good to get alignment practices done pat.
      Dave

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      • #4
        OK, I realigned everything again and I may have gotten a 32nds worth of error out of it, but I still think its a bit substandard.

        Perhaps you guys (badger Dave & davefreg)could clue me in on what I should expect of this saw. Should I expect something like a factory edge or something less ?

        Thanks for the responses they are greatly appreciated !

        Ian

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        • #5
          Are you using the blade that came with the saw? Some have stated that they are happy with the OEM blade, I wasn't. I only use the stock blade for construction type work now. I replaced the OEM blade with a Freud LU84R011 combination blade and noticed a huge difference in the quality of cut. You could even fine tune your cuts further by running dedicated blades for ripping, cross cutting and glue ups.
          I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.

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          • #6
            Actually I never even used the blade that came with the saw. I immediately switched it out for a Freud and then a Forrest, though I do admit that I have yet to try a blade that is specifically engineered for table saws. I will today though !!!

            Thanks again

            Ian

            Ps. In spite of my skepticism the tune up seems to have helped the situation and I'm subsequently closer to the results I desire.

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            • #7
              You are saying the alignment is out not more than a 1/32. That equals 31 thousands. You need to be around 2 thousands.
              I suggest buy are borrow a guage.
              Good luck it takes trial and error.
              Steve

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              • #8
                Ian,

                I am a new person to table saws, however calibration works from table saws to piston rings.

                I have bought and assembled the 3650. The saw cuts perfect. You need to be very exacting on the assembly. I used a dial-indicator, micrometer and caliper to adjust blade to table to fence. You also need to follow the alignment procedure for the blade guard and (splitter ?) Once you understand what they are trying to tell you in the manual, focus on making that adjustment as close to zero as possible. You may have to modify the parts. I needed to "overdrill" the fence guide holes.

                The final product will astound you! I can cut wooden feeler guages with this saw! (stock blade)

                Good luck.

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                • #9
                  Ian----the blades you've mentioned should give you a very smooth cut. Alignment is a matter of choosing one of the many methods that will work the best for you.

                  If this is your first table saw, I'd recommend a good ts book by Kelly Mehler or others. This will have alignment methods. Also, if you're shop is growing, "Mastering Woodworking Machines" by Mark Duginske is excellent.

                  As Gan mentioned, a dial indicator can be a big help and the nice thing is you don't need to spend a fortune on one that works well enough for wwing equipment.

                  A few key elements to aligning the blade/trunions:

                  ---Be sure to check front and real blade position always using the same tooth on the blade.

                  ---"listening" for similar "rubbing" sounds, like with a combo square or the brass screw method, can still be deceptive, unless you have a keen ear for minor sound differences----a dial indicator or a tool such as a brand of angle and height gauges (name slips my mind) use LED lights to indicate precise connection to the blade---clamp one of these in your miter gauge and you'll be fine (always check for slope in your miter gauge first).

                  ---You can easily throw off your alingment when tightening the trunions. You need to alternate between bolts, 1/2 to 1 turn at a time, and firmly hold the trunion in place---re-check alignment when tightened.

                  ---fence alignment is even easier, done along the right miter slot.
                  Dave

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