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Another question: wouldnt you want to drill the holes in the UHMW so that the pieces are flush *with the table top* instead of the bottom of the factory fence? I figure the gap between factory fence and table top could be pretty annoying, and can be fixed by new fence faces.
You don't want your fence to sit right on top of the table (as it will be prone to get sawdust underneath it which would throw it out of square with the table when you lock it down). I set the fence faces on my saws 1/32 above the table top.
Would you also want to shim the faces so that they are wider at the back of the blade than the front? I think that helps with safety (Ive tried a lot to get the fence itself to lock down that way, but I cant seem to get it to be wider at the back of the blade than the front........even with turning both allen screws to set "unequal" clamping)
Surely you want the fence faces absolutely parallel with the blade across its entire length? If there is movement allowed at the back of the fence, the blade will act as a pivot and cause the wood to tend to move left at the front as the cut progresses (assuming the fence is on the right of the blade).
Even if it doesn't cause kickback or binding, I would thing it would give you an imperfect cut.
Great link provided there. I going to try and do mine today.
Dow, I assume you just used the 3 factory holes?
Yep. Someone, I think it was Ashman? drilled two more holes, but I don't think it's necessary. I see no bowing of the pieces.
As for the poster who asked about having the fence "wider at the back" do you mean that you want to have the fence slightly skewed so that there's more clearance at the back of the blade than at the front? If so, then you adjust that with the two allen screws on the T part of the fence.
Well got it completed. Really easy. Used just the 3 orgional holes that where provided. Made it 3/4 longer each end and 3'" tall. Moved the tapes by heating with an old blow dryer I keep in the shop, for just such emergencys.
I thought I read somewhere that a slight amount of toe-out of the fence (i.e. its further out from the back of the blade than the front) provides a small amount of extra safety........since the wood is cut to the correct dimension at the front of the blade, any toe out after it would help keep the material free from binding back on the blade. At least thats my understanding.
And as for adjusting it, Ive tried to get a little toe out, but once I have some, the set screws are so far in its hard to slide the fence. if I back them out to be able to slide it again, I lose the toe out.....and I also want the screws in more to prevent "slop" when sliding (when the fence is so loose on the track that it gets stuck between the front rail and the front rail bracket).