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Well, I went and looked at the 22114 at my local Sears store today. Was not too impressed with the fence. When I locked it down it did not appear to lock down true. Maybe this was due to it being a floor model. Everthing else seemed to be what I was looking for. I signed up for the craftsman club but was told it would be 6 to 8 weeks before I would get my card and thus could not get the 10% off until then.
Originally posted by Bushwacker: Well, I went and looked at the 22114 at my local Sears store today. Was not too impressed with the fence. When I locked it down it did not appear to lock down true. Maybe this was due to it being a floor model. Everthing else seemed to be what I was looking for. I signed up for the craftsman club but was told it would be 6 to 8 weeks before I would get my card and thus could not get the 10% off until then.
Once you've signed up for the CMan Club you should be able to provide your phone number to get whatever discount is available from the club. If they give you any trouble about it, ask for the regional office number, try another manager, or another Sears. If they still won't give it to you, tell them it's ashame thye're not interested in your business, then take it elsewhere.
Thanks for the reply. Just curious though, I have read alot about the wobbly legs on the Ridgid TS3650. I have even asked some of the sales people at the HD and they agreed that they appeared to wobble a lot. Has Ridgid addressed this problem????
I'm not sure if Ridgid has officially addressed it, but some of the savvy members on this forum have. There was a string called something like "Ridgid 3650 legs strong like bull" that discussed changing or adding some washers....hopefully someone more familiar with the situation will chime in.
I will tread lightly as I realize there are some people that are very passionate about the (alleged) leg issue.
My general notion would normally be that if something flexes, then it will eventually fatigue and break. Yes, I can force the 3650 legs to flex just a bit if I put some weight on top, grab the outer ends of the wings, and twist to the right and left. I used the standard assembly technique and parts.
But I've also ripped full 100# sheets of 3/4" MDF and solid core 36" oak doors with the saw supporting 100% of the weight (15" deep permanent outfeed table is attached directly to the saw) and I've never had any issues with the weight bearing straight down.
Although the saw might be vulnerable to the "twist" action (even that is minor), that kind force would be very unusual under normal tablesaw operation.
How I got my 22114 for $414.00. The local sales flyer had a mistake in it. It was showing a picture of the 22114 but the saw on sale was the 22104. I first asked if I could have the 22114 for the stated price in the paper but they refused so I had a manager called up and explained the situation with the flyer. He then split the difference in the flyer and cut the 22114 price by $100. Then there was an early bird 10 percent off and an additional 10 percent for the craftsman club news letter subscription. This all brought the saw down to 414.00. After it was all said and done I paid less for the 22114 than the sale price of the 22104.
I currently have my saw on a plane old torsion box base with locking casters but I will be on the lookout for something better. Works okay for now. I am going to slide the rails over and add a new measuring tape to both the left and the right. This should give me about 36 or so to the right. I really like the sliding portion on the rip fence. So I am going to leave that peace on and set the tape to cut on the mark rather than have to add 1 inch each time. I just know that I am going to forget to do that one of these days.
Once this is all done I would like to build some type of cabinet/rolling base that will go under the wing to give support, storage and better dust collection for a mounted Router in the table extension.
No need to tread lightly for my sake. I came to this site looking for some honest opinions and I thank everyone of you that has given me the information that I was looking for. I do however feel that if I am going to pay almost 600 dollars for a saw, then I want the best that I can get for my money. I am sure that all of you want the same thing. Thanks again for everyones help. I believe that I have narrowed by choice down to the Jet - JWTS-10GCW2-JF. Just a few dollars more than the Ridgid but appears to meet my requirements. Thanks again for all of the suggestions.
Originally posted by Bushwacker: No need to tread lightly for my sake. I came to this site looking for some honest opinions and I thank everyone of you that has given me the information that I was looking for. I do however feel that if I am going to pay almost 600 dollars for a saw, then I want the best that I can get for my money. I am sure that all of you want the same thing. Thanks again for everyones help. I believe that I have narrowed by choice down to the Jet - JWTS-10GCW2-JF. Just a few dollars more than the Ridgid but appears to meet my requirements. Thanks again for all of the suggestions.
Bushwacker I totally agree I want my money's worth too. Before you put your money down take one more look at the Jet and the Ridgid. Note the support for the arbor. You will need to remove the blade insert and look into the bowels of the saw. On the Jet it is basically two steel tubes/bars that have casting on either end that fit into the trunions and past through the Arbor support. On the Ridgid the unit is a casting holding the arbor that fits into the trunions. There is a problem with "some" contractor saws that the blade will be perfectly aligned at 90 degrees but when tilted the blade is not longer parallel to the mitre slot. The problem is the two steel tubes/bars got racked. Delta publishes a procedure how to fix this. Ridgid doesn't need too since they have a one piece casting.
I think the Sears is the same as the Jet. There are only two contractor saws I know that use castings and not the steel tubes/bars. Ridgid and the Dewalt 746. All cabinet saws I know have castings instead of the using the tubes/bars. However most hybreds do have the tubes/bars. I would not consider a saw that uses the tubes/bars. Most nasty contractor saw alignment problems can be traced back to the two tubes/bars racking or changing position in relation to each other.
Also note the bevel stop adjustment on the Jet and Ridgid. On the jet it is a bolts with a lock washer hidden once again in the bowels of the machine. However Delta, Ridgid, Dewalt and I think the Sears have the bevel stop adjustment done from the table top. True you will probably only do the adjustment once but it is something else to think about.
Would go with the Ridgid over the Craftsman anyday. Craftsman is light user grade for most things, and unless you are just starting out with light woodworking, would get something better than Craftsman.
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Originally posted by buctooth: Would go with the Ridgid over the Craftsman anyday. Craftsman is light user grade for most things, and unless you are just starting out with light woodworking, would get something better than Craftsman.
Buctooth - I think you're generalizing about the entire Craftsman name here....the post was specifically about the new Orion made Craftsman 22114/22124 hybrid/cabinet saws which are huge departure from some of the saws Sears has retailed in past years.
Fellow wood manipulators! I am in a dilema. I'm in the market for a new table saw but do not know which one to go with. There are a few I am looking at: Ridgid TS3650, Delta 36-680, Craftsman 22114, Grizzly GO444Z, and this new one I just found, SM-250A 10". I have reviews on all of them except the last one. Has anyone ever heard of Sunhill Machinery and how does their table saw measure up against the others in its class. Yes, its made in Taiwan, like the others. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
Any hard working American should want the best for their buck. But if that means supporting communist China which is building and training its military to wage war on us then that is simply selfish treason. If there are no alternatives it cannot be avoided, but to support communism when other options are available, and doing so while bad mouthing ones fellow Americans then thats just pathetic.
I bought Sears 0922114N a few months ago because of the features it offered and because the Bies fence said made in USA. The way the saw was displayed I thought the saw itself was made here. When I got the saw home and found out it was made in China it sat in my garage until I sold it for the same amount of money I paid for it. If you buy from China when there is an alternative then you are a traitor. Its not a nice word but giving money to a communist country that is tooling its army to wage ware against you is, or should be, treason. To say you dont care as long as your pocket book is happy is simply disgusting.
There are a lot of good saws out there that are not made by our mortal enemies.
After fighting in Somalia, Bosnia and Iraq, losing 7 friends and now sit here with nerve damage a bum leg and other internal injuries. I say, your welcome. It is only in this country that we have the right and the floor to disagree and one of use not end up dead. You are very right in saying buy American when possible but when in my case there is a 30% difference that must be considered. As to the economy. Our economy is only suffering in area’s that are controlled by Union’s. Air carriers, steel, automotive industries, All need, in order to compete, to cut cost’s. They need to cut personnel, adjust wages, change retirement plans, and further automate. What ever it takes but Unions, speaking for their members, are against this. Which is better for those members, having a lower pay and cut benefits are no job at all because of contract disputes. Every time there is a strike the consumer and the members pay the cost. The Union negotiators get paid either way with union dues. We can’t blame our global competition for taking advantage of economic troubles that we are causing on our own. Another nation (England) shared your views about 200 years ago. They attempted to control trade when we as a fledgling country started to use the incredible resources at our disposal. Rather than except that other nations are now players in the economy they attempted to isolate their economy (and ours). They are now a distant shadow of there former self.
If we as a nation are not careful and learn from their mistakes, we might meet their same fate. We need to except that China as a growing economic power is now coming into its own. Our companies need to have the freedom to do what they need to do in order to compete or except their fate. We are the ones forcing our largest companies to look outside our borders to construct factories. Do you blame them? They are being bled dry by our current union laws and artificially high wages in those employment fields. I on the other hand rather than try to ignore the world economy have decided to take the challenge that we now face and am adapting to the changing economy. Supply and demand along with the rules of economics will balance our Country’s economy. But only if we change our laws. Americans are born with the will and tools to prosper. A country that isolates will eventual die. Look at North Korea. You call my view Treason. I call yours cowardly.