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Wish I could help you, but I have never once mounted a guard or splitter to my 2424, or any other saw I've owned for that matter. Though I consider myself a safety freak, I see the guard as an obstacle, not a safety feature. I want to SEE the blade so I know what's going on, and in relation to my hands or push sticks.
While I hunt around for that ONE tool the wife authorized me to get for my birthday, I'll gander at what there is out there. And if I find anything I'll post it here for you.
I have no problems seeing the blade with the stock Ridgid guard/splitter on my 3612. I use it whenever possible, and have never once found it to cause a safety problem; I have found it to contribute to safety and so I use it. I haven't found any aftermarket splitters specifically for the Ridgid, but it would be nice to have for when I switch to an overarm blade guard that I can leave on for pretty much every cut (and get better dust collection). If I come across one, I'll let you know.
It isn't a "pop-up", but rather a "drop in", I'm fairly sure the new Excalibur Merlin is available for Ridgid saws. Along with adding a mount in the throat, this uses the original mount for the guard. So, if the rear rail of an Incra fence, or the overhead guard, keeps the stock unit from being used the Merlin would be no better.
If it is the rear panel of the overhead that is in the way, might I suggest what Excalibur recommends for their guard, which is leaving out the rear panel?
Actually the guard and the rear Incra fence rail are in the way of the splitter. I really like the fence and the overhead guard but I would feel better having a splitter. So far the best thing I have read is to make inserts out of plywood and glue a hardwood splitter into the saw kerf. I am not real sure about how to extend the saw kerf back far enough to accomodate the splitter. Everything I can think of involves removing the insert and using something else to cut the extended kerf, but it seems less accurate and likely to cause more problems than it fixes.
Dave--good points. I'm beginning to wonder if it wouldn't be just as good to cut down the original guard/splitter to just a splitter---sounds like it would do the same as the Merlin.
Sharon---don't know if it would work on the Incra, but with my Biesemeyer rails, you needed to cut a gap in the rear rail for the splitter on the Craftsman/Emerson saw. But, since the Biese' only uses the rear rail for table support, it wasn't an issue.
Well, I can tell you that cutting the stock splitter to clear the Incra rail doesn't work, 'cause I tried it. Gets real floppy...
I extend my zero clearance to glue in a splitter. Take the blank insert and cut it in the normal and sane fashion. Stop saw, retract blade, remove zero clearance and turn it over front to rear. The slot still lines up with the blade to a pretty high tolerance, assuming the blade parallels the miter slot and the insert does also. Then, raise the blade again for a second cut. The insert isn't centered over the blade, the back cuts first.
I haven't made one in a while. If I recall correctly, I used a handsaw to extend the slot even a little more. I may not be remembering correctly, though. When I glue in my wooden splitter, I make it long enough to extend into the normal path of the blade. Then, first time I use it I raise the blade right into it, to a little higher than I usually run. This gives a very tight fit.
I like a tight splitter, so at this point my piece of wood is a hair on the thick side. Then I (very carefully, it would be embarassing to get hurt at this point) kerf a piece of scrap wood, just in an inch or two. Now the insert can be removed from the saw, and the kerf used to check the splitter for size. I just sand the sides down until the kerf clears nicely, making checks now and again to be sure I'm staying pretty well aligned with the blade teeth on the fence side. I round the leading edge of the splitter so it doesn't catch.
First one of this sort I made, I used Maple. It isn't the most stable wood, and seasonally it would move around a hair. Not a problem unless a thick cut were made. Now, I use Mahogany, which is much more stable. Run the grain vertically, of course.
Oh, and give the glue a good long time to set. This is a bad place to experience a glue failure.