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Thin vs Ultra Thin Kerf Forrest Blade

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  • Thin vs Ultra Thin Kerf Forrest Blade

    My neighbor has an Ultra Thin Kerf Forrest 40T 10" WWII blade that he's offered to sell me for $50 which comes with the Forrest dampener/stiffener. The blade looks to be in excellent condition and appears to be a good price if you compare it to the price on a new UTK w/ dampener. My delima is that I recently paid $32 for a custom riving knife for my R4511 TS that is 0.09" in thickness, probably too thick to safely use with the UTK blade (5/64"). I can get a custom R4511 riving knife that will work w/ the UTK blade for another $32. My question, do you think it's a good buy and worth it for having a WWII UTK blade or should I just buy the regular thin kerf blade that will already work with my riving knife. I've always heard great things about the Forrest WWII blade but wasn't sure how people feel about the ultra thin kerf version. My neighbor just used it without any type of splitter. Thanks
    Last edited by feike105; 06-23-2009, 04:37 PM.

  • #2
    Re: Thin vs Ultra Thin Kerf Forrest Blade

    Originally posted by feike105 View Post
    My neighbor has an Ultra Thin Kerf Forrest 40T 10" WWII blade that he's offered to sell me for $50 which comes with the Forrest dampener/stiffener. The blade looks to be in excellent condition and appears to be a good price if you compare it to the price on a new UTK w/ dampener. My delima is that I recently paid $32 for a custom riving knife for my R4511 TS that is 0.09" in thickness, probably too thick to safely use with the UTK blade (5/64"). I can get a custom R4511 riving knife that will work w/ the UTK blade for another $32. My question, do you think it's a good buy and worth it for having a WWII UTK blade or should I just buy the regular thin kerf blade that will already work with my riving knife. I've always heard great things about the Forrest WWII blade but wasn't sure how people feel about the ultra thin kerf version. My neighbor just used it without any type of splitter. Thanks
    Absolutely not! Why go with something you're not equipt to use. The only thing a thin kerf will do for you is save you about 1/64" of wood but will cost you with bad cuts from a flexing blade.
    info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

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    • #3
      Re: Thin vs Ultra Thin Kerf Forrest Blade

      Since it's a neighbor, I would see if you can try the blade out on a few cuts through woods you are likely to use and see how you like it. Just don't use the splitter for the test.

      The ultra thin kerf blades remove a lot less wood. The effect is that they make the saw feel as though it has more power. If you find your saw bogging down and you feel you need more power, this might be just the thing.

      I never worry about flexing blades or saw stabilizers. A properly tensioned blade that runs true doesn't see any side loads and shouldn't be flexing. If you're putting side load onto a saw blade you've got trouble no matter what the kerf size.

      What might be a concern is that the carbide is smaller. Forrest blades have large carbide tips so you can resharpen them several times. Smaller tips might be more fragile... although Forrest can also replace broken carbide.

      Good luck!

      -Andy

      BTW, I don't use a splitter either, never have, and never will.

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      • #4
        Re: Thin vs Ultra Thin Kerf Forrest Blade

        i didn't use a splitter either, until i tried to rip a 2x4. the cut closed up as it passed the blade and kicked back. just missed me and put a dent the size of a baseball in the wood framing of the garage back wall, which was 10 feet away. lesson learned.
        there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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        • #5
          Re: Thin vs Ultra Thin Kerf Forrest Blade

          By the time your done buying another splitter, you're into a WWII for $82, which is fairly common sale price. If you think the saw is going to struggle in thick wood why not go with a regular thin kerf 30 tooth WWII that'll work with your splitter? It's very difficult to tell the cuts apart but the 30T will handle thick wood much more efficiently than a 40T. I was able to cut 3" hard woods with my 1-3/4hp hybrid with reasonable ease using a 30T WWII TK. A standard TK should have no deflection issues, but I'm not sure about a UTK...that pushes the envelope a bit further.

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