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Set-up & Adjustment of Radial Arm Saw, RS1000

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  • Set-up & Adjustment of Radial Arm Saw, RS1000

    Got a RS1000 radial arm saw a couple of weeks before Christmas, but I'm new to woodworking and have no experience with tools like this. Am having problem getting part of the adjustments right, I think.

    When checking the column rotational play, where you push sideways on the end of the radial arm and feel for movement of the column, I always get a bit of movement, no matter how tight I tighten the set screws on the gibs on the back of the column. The square "spine" on the coulmn does not move, but the column itself does, mostly at the front of the column. I thought that maybe if I tightened up the vertical adjustments (screws/nuts on front of column housing, and brass set screw on front of housing) it would help, but it did not. Result is that column elevation is very tight, almost binding. The brass set screw leaves a brass streak on the front of the column, and there are black areas on the sides of the front of the column from the very tight fit of the housing now.

    There never was any vertical play in the column/arm, so that is not a problem.

    Can anyone offer any advice or help, please?

  • #2
    I have spent many years with this tool. Biggest mistake I find is that people try to over adjust. Grabbing the arm and pushing on it will in most cases cause flex. Give me a long enough leaver and I can turn over an outhouse. Most important is that you follow the alignment procedure step by step in the order outlined in the manual. I have spent many years teaching on this saw and its earlier versions under the Craftsman label.


    • #3
      Good Advice.

      Mine dialed in to perfection. I even made a special jig to get the blade to cut exactly 90 degrees to the fence. Key thing is there to tighten the set screws at the back to bind the top pieces before tightening the screws on the that hold the top front piece to the frame.

      Back to your question, I can push hard enough to make it move, but it is flexing. If you have the angle lock lever in the lock position, there should be no movement. I'm at work, so manuals is not available to me right now. I'll try and remember to dig into when I get home for proper terminology and component names.
      John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


      • #4
        I have the same saw, as Woody says, when the angle lock lever is in the locked position I get no movement at all. Nuttin but praise for this saw !!! Hope ya find the problem.


        [ 01-02-2004, 04:54 PM: Message edited by: ralphthetoolman ]
        <a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a><br /><br />I can fix anything......where\'s the duct tape ?? :-)


        • #5
          Thank you, guys. The whole reason I asked was because I was concerned that I might have "over adjusted" to try and remove the flex in the column. Sure don't want to ruin this saw by binding up the column and causing excess wear.

          John's tip about tightening the thumbscrews at the back of the table before tightening the ones that hold the top front piece to the frame makes perfect sense. Glad you pointed that out.

          I really love this saw, especially after I figured out that since it has to cut a kerf in the table, I don't have to draw lines across the piece I'm cutting, like I did for my circular saw. Always was hard to get those kind of marks aligned perfectly straight, etc., then hard to track them perfectly with hand held circ. saw. Now I make one little tic mark with its edge exactly where the outside of the kerf should be, then lay the piece on the table with the tic mark on the appropriate edge of the kerf in the table. In fact, just cut 12 pieces with both ends beveled 45 deg. They were all well within 0.01 inch of each other. And did it quick too.

          As soon as finished staining/polyurethaning current project, I will clean up rest of garage, move saw to permanent place, undo the excess tightening I did, and go through the whole alignment procedure, in order again. For now it is covered with plastic and won't be used until moved/readjusted (and maybe converted to 220V - permanent place is directly in front of breaker panel so running conduit/wire for 220 plug is a breeze).