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  • New Table Saw Blade.......Any Ideas?

    I just pulled my 40 tooth blade off to have sharpened. I would like to get some input on a new blade for my table saw. I make crafts projects And would like to make small furniture in the future.I am thinking about a 60 tooth blade.

    What make freud better than the other brands.

    Thanks, Scott

  • #2
    I like the FORREST blades, they are some think a bit pricey but they will resharpen them twice at NO EXTRA CHARGE. Look then up an shop around for the best price. I got mine from Amazon.com.I have one on the miter saw and one on the table saw. I also have 9 others just hanging on the wall collecting saw dust, sharpened and ready to be used. I only use "others" when I am working with treated or riping long stock. The forrest will handle it but I feel that I save them for the better cutting. NO SAW MARKS . hope that this helps.. Dock Nelson

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    • #3
      I use Freud blades almost exclusively and have been very happy with their performance. Freud, like the Forrest and other "high end" blades have a big advantage in the thickness of the carbide on the teeth. More thickness means more resharpening therefore making up for some of the added cost.

      The Freud blades use a higher grade of carbide than the cheaper blades which you can only see under a microscope in the uniformity of the structure of the carbide. They also have features such as pretensioned bodys, heat expansion slots and teflon coatings to decrease friction. They also use something called tri-metal brazing to join the carbide to the blade teeth which in my limited understanding of it mean a better bond between the unlike materials of the steel body and the carbide teeth. Good blades will share many of these features and the Forrest is certainly included in this group. I've never used a Forrest (only because I couldn't justify the added expense) so I really can't compare them only to say every comment I've ever read about them has been positive.

      The most important aspect of buying a blade is to buy the correct blade for the purpose you intend to use it. Don't use a ripping blade if you are crosscutting, don't use the crosscut blade if you are working with laminates and don't use the laminate blade to rip. This may sound like a lot of different blades meaning more money but the advantage is that each blade will be used for only what it was designed and last three times as long. I do use a combination blade for general sizing and rough work but when the good wood for the fine projects come out, so do the specific blades.

      Hope that helps!
      - Tim

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      • #4
        I might be "making this up" but I thought I saw a WW mag recently in the news stand that featured a blade review on the cover. I had my hands full at the time and did not get to look over the article. I'm also not sure which mag I saw. Maybe someone else saw this and can comment as to the usefulness of the write-up......that is if I didn't just imagine the whole thing. I may have been under the influence of deck preservative at the time.

        I agree with Tim's points above. Freud has a very useful "selection" tool on their wedsite. I have experience with Freud, Oldham, and Forrest. While I strongly support the idea of specific use blades, I have found the Forrest, which is somewhere between a combination and and specific purpose blade (IMHO) to do everything they claim. To be honest, I have not had any serious complaints with any of the after market blades I have used but I can not comment on the lower end range. The thing I try to keep in perspective is that a poor set up or misalignment will make the best blade cut poorly. Conversely, a well tuned saw will let almost any blade that is in good condition make a nice cut.

        Good luck,
        Wood Dog

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        • #5
          Fine Woodworking. Eh, they only covered General Purpose blades, which I think are a commie plot. YMMV.

          Dave

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          • #6
            If you can't justify the cost of a Forrest Woodworker II, then you've never used one. Bite the bullet and get one. You won't be sorry.
            Delta Unisaw; Delta DJ-20 Jointer; Jet Drill press; Ridgid TP-1300 thickness planer; DeWalt 12\" Miter saw; Craftsman 10\" radial arm saw; Craftsman band saw; Seco 3HP Shaper; Router Table; Penn State Tempest Cyclone; Delta Air Cleaner

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            • #7
              I LIKE Oldham blades,great price for a solid blade, I LOVE Oldham Viper router bits...I may have to take the plunge on one of the "big money" blades...how long will a WW-II go btweeen sharpenings?

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              • #8
                I really can not tell you "how long" BUT I will tell you that I used the WW when I was making my siding and other projects. The siding was about 1900 ln ft of rough cut crpress, trim one side and the do a 2nd cut for true width. It is still sharp. I am VERY happy with it. I have used other "lower end blades and they now just "hang around on the wall, resharpened a few times. I use them on PT and other non fine work. Bite the bullet ( Amazon.com )and enjoy a FINE CUTTING BLADE. dd

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                • #9
                  Ok Doc, you have talked me into it...I move to a new base next month (Kansas), and I will get my self a present (Forrest blade) when I get up there...

                  Cheers!

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                  • #10
                    Just for the hell of it, I bought a 7-1/4" Freud 40 tooth with red Teflon and no plastic package in H.D. And mounted it on my TS2412. All I can say is WOW does it cut nice! The best part is, the blade only costs $15. It's thinner than a standard 10" blade, so just adjust your rails & fence. I don't cut any thing thicker than 4/4 wood so it's perfect for me. I don't know how long it will last, but for $15 it's an inexpensive blade with a beautiful cut. Just be sure to inspect the blade you buy for good teeth, without the plastic package it may have been dropped in the store and put back on the shelf.
                    My 2 cents.
                    John

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