Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.

Table saw adjustment

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Table saw adjustment

    I have a R4511 that I use for ripping mostly, but the other day I noticed that my rip fence was square at say 6" and under but when I was cutting some ply at 24" I was a 1/16 out. I checked the miter slot square to the blade and discovered that the blade tails away about 1/32 from the front of the blade to the back using the same tooth as a reference point.

    I am assuming that this is affecting my fence when it is extended far from the blade and I was wondering if loosening the table top and re squaring the miter slot to blade would fix this problem?

    So do I loosen my table top and adjust or is this a trunnion adjustment?The manual was talking about loosening some hex head screws and putting a wood block against the blade and pushing the blade to square it. This sounded weird to me, but maybe that is how the trunnion is adjusted?

  • #2
    Re: Table saw adjustment

    I dont have the 4511 but it sounds like you need to adjust the trunnion. If you havent squared the miter slot to blade and fence to blade after assembly now would be a good time for that.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Table saw adjustment

      Originally posted by Cato View Post
      I have a R4511 that I use for ripping mostly, but the other day I noticed that my rip fence was square at say 6" and under but when I was cutting some ply at 24" I was a 1/16 out. I checked the miter slot square to the blade and discovered that the blade tails away about 1/32 from the front of the blade to the back using the same tooth as a reference point.

      I am assuming that this is affecting my fence when it is extended far from the blade and I was wondering if loosening the table top and re squaring the miter slot to blade would fix this problem?

      So do I loosen my table top and adjust or is this a trunnion adjustment?The manual was talking about loosening some hex head screws and putting a wood block against the blade and pushing the blade to square it. This sounded weird to me, but maybe that is how the trunnion is adjusted?
      There are 4 socket cap bolts holding the top on. Since the trunions are mounted to the cabinet you actually just need to loosen the table bolts. 2 of them are outside the "cabinet" the other 2 are inside (open the motor cover and look for the bolts recessed into the frame of the opening).

      Loosen 3 of them and barely loosen the 4th to act as a pivot. I didnt tap the table (and surely not the blade), I just kind of nudged the whole saw using the table itself. Eventually got it almost perfect, I think Im at .002 out or so.

      There is another good thread around here about adjusting the table to be parallel with the blade tilted to 45 degrees. Might want to do both the miter slot and tilt adjustments at the same time to save some work.

      -Chris

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Table saw adjustment

        Thanks for the help Chris, I figured I probably needed to re square the table top for miter to blade. I'll check the bevel adjustment at 45, I remember reading a pretty technical thread on that, and I think I saved it.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Table saw adjustment

          Interesting, I never would have thought you needed to adjust the table instead of the trunnion. Is that typical for hybrid saws? My only experience with table saws is the 3650 (contractor style).

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Table saw adjustment

            yes, it is. hybrids, like the 4511, are more like cabinet saws. the trunions, and blade, are mounted to the cabinet and the top is moved in order to square the blade to the miter slot(s). on a contractor saw, like the 3650/60, the blade is moved, by shifting the trunions, in order to align the blade with the miter slot(s). there is a really great paper in this thread which addresses blade alignment on the 4511.

            http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836

            it is well written and the principles invoked by the author are appliccable to contractor saws also.
            there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Table saw adjustment

              Originally posted by Pez View Post
              Interesting, I never would have thought you needed to adjust the table instead of the trunnion. Is that typical for hybrid saws? My only experience with table saws is the 3650 (contractor style).
              It's typical for saws that have cabinet mounted trunnions, and they are much easier to align. Most hybrids have table mounted trunnions. Those with cab mounted trunnions are the Craftsman, Steel City, and the Ridgid. Jet, Delta, DW, Griz, Hitachi, Shop Fox, GI, Sunhill, are table mounted, and require a standard trunnion adjustment.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Table saw adjustment

                Thanks all for the help!! I was pretty sure that with a cab mounted trunnion, that the simplest solution was going to be what you guys have said, loosen the table top and pivot to square the miter.

                This is such a huge difference from my old contractor saw. I like that things can be easily adjusted and fine tuned on this saw.

                While I am in this adjustment and tweak mode, I'll have to re read the post from DaveWoodworker on the bevel adjustments as well even though I mostly use the TS for rip work.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Table saw adjustment

                  cato...dave's write up is specifically aimed at correcting blade misalignment when ripping at 45*.

                  pez...the may, 2008 issue of wood magazine has a good article on cabinet, bench top, contractor and hybrib table saws. well worth the read regarding pros, cons, similiarities and differences.
                  there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Table saw adjustment

                    Originally posted by FINER9998 View Post
                    pez...the may, 2008 issue of wood magazine has a good article on cabinet, bench top, contractor and hybrib table saws. well worth the read regarding pros, cons, similiarities and differences.
                    I must have missed that article (I subscribe to Wood mag - love it!). Thanks, I am going to read it right now.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Table saw adjustment

                      If your fence is in at under 6" and out farther away, you might want to look at the two piece fence guide as well. I was having a similar problem and solved it by replaceing the two peice assembly with a one piece steel tube.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Table saw adjustment

                        Hey Millipede,
                        That thought had not occurred to me on the two piece fence. I do think that the fence should have been designed one piece.

                        I'll try squaring miter slot to blade by adjusting table top and then work my way back and re adjust fence to blade and if that still proves to be a problem then I might have to do as you suggest.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Table saw adjustment

                          I was thinking of buying a one piece tube for my saw, but decided to make sure my tubes were straight, and then if they didn't line up, I would go the one piece route. I have a 6' aluminum straight edge, and used this to adjust the tubes. It worked great. My fence is good from 0 to 30" out. If you don't have a long straight edge, you could clamp some thin wire between the two ends of the tube and then adjust them until they are straight with the wire.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Table saw adjustment

                            Originally posted by 3rdtime View Post
                            I was thinking of buying a one piece tube for my saw, but decided to make sure my tubes were straight, and then if they didn't line up, I would go the one piece route. I have a 6' aluminum straight edge, and used this to adjust the tubes. It worked great. My fence is good from 0 to 30" out. If you don't have a long straight edge, you could clamp some thin wire between the two ends of the tube and then adjust them until they are straight with the wire.
                            When I made some early adjustments I noticed my front rail was slightly out of whack. The two sections were not level across the top and were out a 1/64" on the front of the rail. I was able to correct this by placing two pieces of paper under the bottom on the right side and backing the screws out a bit and shimming between the rails and table. Their was enough play in the screw holes to allow the adjustment. After I socked the the screws down it was perfect.

                            Buck

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X