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Aligning my table saw: The fence is getting further out of square the further from..

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  • #31
    Maple and many hardwoods can become reactionary when cut. ie. they can close up as you cut them. Without a splitter, there is the real danger of the wood gripping the rear of the blade and providing you with a bad kickback. Even if the wood has been dried perfectly, and is not reactionary, there's still the possibility of slight closure on the blade leading to rooster tails, burns etc.,

    Do yourself a favor, put the splitter back on the saw, not just for the safety factor, but this could be a potential solution to your ongoing problems. At the same time why not invest $15 in "Table Saw Basics" by Roger Cliffe. Great book which covers everything you need to know when you start off with a TS.



    • #32
      Mike, thanks for the reply but I have already found that problem with the extension wings. I have replaced the set and the fence system works great. [img]smile.gif[/img] Any other suggestions?

      I should run the kick back setup but I don't. I have never used one and it is more a danger to me on there than off. However, I will look over it again and consider the possibility.

      Still doesn't figure in to why all the dust on the table cutting pine?




      • #33
        Eric, how's the shop coming? Did you figure out your Miter Saw bench?
        keep makn\' sawdust!...just don\'t breath any.


        • #34
          I know my 2 cents are coming late to the game but have you checked the nut on the back of your fence that adjusts the lock down force? If the nut is too tight when you lock the fence down the fence can torque slightly.
          Hope this helps.


          • #35
            Newbie question on alignment:

            I aligned the sawblade to the miter track using a combination square(just as shown in the manual) I don't have any special equipments like dial caliper.

            After this, I tried making a cross cut, when I pull it back the wood seems to hit the blades again. This doesn't give me confidence in the alignment.

            Any suggestions?

            How much are the dial calipers? Does HD carry them? I saw one in amazon that runs in the miter slot, but it is quite pricy $69...


            • #36

              You need a dial gauge attached to a magnetic base to measure the run out and alignment. Gauge with base on sale at Harbor Freight, Fremont/Newark for $13.


              [ 10-20-2003, 08:29 PM: Message edited by: Cutbuff ]


              • #37
                I went down and put in a brand new zero clearance insert. I have my 40 tooth Diablo setup on the saw right now. I made two test cuts and bam, I burned some pine, not bad but bad enough to warrant something being out of whack. I rechecked my fence and it was out about 0.003” away from the blade toward the rear of the saw. I then rechecked the blade and it seems to be 0.002” out with the rear of the blade going toward the saw. I will do another alignment tomorrow on the saw blade. The total run out by moving the saw blade one complete turn and measuring total variance was 0.005” tonight. The dust problem still exist, although not as bad, I would say the zero clerance insert reduced the problem by 50%.

                I have not adjusted the nut because it is at a nice spot. After I do a fence lockdown I double check the fence parallelism with the left mitre slot. The new extension wings made all the difference.

                I picked up a dial caliper for around $10 I believe at my local WoodCraft. Home depot does carry them, at least they did at one of 3 local stores here in TN. [img]smile.gif[/img] I just made a wood jig to attach it too and bam, instant precision and accuracy. I aligned my saw with the combination square and thought I was real close. I freeked when I saw how far I was out. It does take me 6 or 7 times to get dialed in really close dead nuts but is worth the time.

                Greg, thanks for asking. I do have some ideas on starting my shop. Did I get my miter bench figured out? Yes. [img]smile.gif[/img] Purchase a new non-sliding miter. I am not sure what I am going to do about it but since I rarely make a cut over 6" on it now I will not worry about it and I will just make the cabinet and worktop and see what happens.

                I have had a few things come up and I did not want to start into everything until I got this problem figured out.

                Thank you for all the suggestions and help so far. I guess this is something in the alignment somewhere. I guess.



                • #38
                  Thanks for the heads up on the sale on the magnetic base. Good deal. But the S&H were a little high. However, I ordered the base.

                  I also ordered the book Table Saw Basics just to read and make sure I am not forgetting anything. I have checked and rechecked and cannot figure out why all the dust and burning.



                  • #39
                    Randomish thoughts at 11 P.M.

                    Burning is less an alignment issue, more a blade/feed issue. Put simply, burning is caused by too slow a feed for the number of teeth. If you can raise your feed speed without bogging the saw, do so. If you can't, use a blade with fewer teeth.

                    I'm concerned with your not using the splitter. Not only for kickback safety (which is very important), but for the problem you are having. It is -extremely- easy to torque the stock against the side of the blade when there's nothing helping you hold it to the fence. Poof, there's your roostertail.

                    Please consider this set of pictures I took to demonstrate my typical ripping setup. Yes, this really is how I set it up.

                    Using the featherboards and the splitter, the stock has almost no chance of coming off the fence on me, giving me a better and safer cut.

                    Also, again just because I don't recall it mentioned, be certain the face of the fence itself is straight. If not, that's the same symptom as stock coming off the fence, you're pressing against the side of the blade.

                    The beauty of going through all this is by the time you're done, you will know that saw inside and out. Frankly, if more woodworkers had to go through this, there would be a lot more satisfaction in tool use.

                    (yeah, I know it ain't fun at the time, I've been there too)


                    • #40
                      Sorry, didn't realize that I had already posted the wing problem several months back. in the latest iddue of Wood Magazine they show how to align your saw using parts that you should have already in the shop. Very simple to do, and if done right, should leave a nice cut. Also, there will be an amount of dust on the table surface. Some can be avoided, but not all. Much depends on how low or high the blade is.

                      Forgot to look, but when you replaced the wings, you didn't shim the front again did you? The manual clearly states that you may need to shim the back, but the front should not be shimmed.


                      • #41

                        Thanks a lot - really appreciate your help.


                        • #42

                          check out the latest issue of Popular woodworking,
                          it has a very nice article on fine tuning a table saw. Covered all the issues that were discussed in this thread.

                          A timely article (for me!) indeed!