Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

BS1400 Bandsaw Table Adjustment

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Re: BS1400 Bandsaw Table Adjustment

    Can't comment on the shimming question...

    But, I had the 1400 up and running in the garage tonight, resawing 7" QS red oak for about two hours.

    It's slow going with that thickness, but the results were very good. I was basically splitting 13/16" boards, each over 8' long. I use the Kreg fence someone asked about earlier in this thread. With all the various upgrades and adjustments, drift is basically non-existent. I hold the board against the fence with a featherboard and feed it (slowly.. excruciatingly slowly).

    Now I have two pieces a hair under 3/8" thick, which I will further take down to 1/4" thickness. Anyway, just wanted to give a ya-hoo to the Ridgid BS. Whilst it is certainly no Laguna 18" behemoth, it gets the job done with aplomb.

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: BS1400 Bandsaw Table Adjustment

      Originally posted by Wood_Junkie View Post
      Can't comment on the shimming question...

      But, I had the 1400 up and running in the garage tonight, resawing 7" QS red oak for about two hours.

      It's slow going with that thickness, but the results were very good. I was basically splitting 13/16" boards, each over 8' long. I use the Kreg fence someone asked about earlier in this thread. With all the various upgrades and adjustments, drift is basically non-existent. I hold the board against the fence with a featherboard and feed it (slowly.. excruciatingly slowly).

      Now I have two pieces a hair under 3/8" thick, which I will further take down to 1/4" thickness. Anyway, just wanted to give a ya-hoo to the Ridgid BS. Whilst it is certainly no Laguna 18" behemoth, it gets the job done with aplomb.
      A few months ago, my RIDGID bandsaw started performing a wee bit more like a LAGUNA, I installed a 3/4" ResawKing blade!
      Cost a pretty Penny but no regrets.
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: BS1400 Bandsaw Table Adjustment

        Originally posted by cisco1138 View Post
        A few months ago, my RIDGID bandsaw started performing a wee bit more like a LAGUNA, I installed a 3/4" ResawKing blade!
        Cost a pretty Penny but no regrets.
        Hrrm... I didn't think a 3/4" blade would fit on the Ridgid. Gonna have to look into that.

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: BS1400 Bandsaw Table Adjustment

          My saw vibrated so bad that the bottom door would pop open on its own...

          I read Howard's post and one other (I don't remember who that was, I apologize for not giving credit properly), and for the most part followed their instructions with great results.

          First I went after the drive train. I trashed the rubber washers and hard mounted the motor to a piece of 3/4" MDF. There are some rivet heads on the plate under the motor, so I made a shallow (about 1/8") trough in the bottom of the MDF with my table saw. I made the trough about 2" wide so that I'd have roome to adjust the belt tightness. I then installed a link belt. A good portion of the vibration was gone, but spending more than a few minutes trying to concentrate on cutting carefully with a 1/8" blade still made my eyes go buggy.

          I then went after balancing. I removed the belt and blade and found that the top wheel immediately spun so that the heavy part of it was down. I expected it to be off, but this was an immediate swing that really surprised me. While I was spinning the wheel, I noticed that the crown of the tire was bobbing up and down. The metal of the wheel wasn't, so the tire had a lump of about 1/16".

          The bottom wheel wouldn't spin freely like the top wheel would. I would give it a little crank, and it would slow down much faster and just stop. The bolt that held the wheel on was so tight that it caused extra friction on the bearing. After loosening the bolt a bit (and then tightening it up to just before the bearing showed signs of extra friction) I found that the bottom wheel was also sorely out of balance and that the tire had 2 lumps about 30 degrees apart.

          I bought new tires from Rockler and some stick on weights from the local auto parts store. The old tires had no glue on the undersides, so they came off quickly without a mess. The new tires were a bit of a pain to get on. Once I thought of using clamps it went a lot easier. A few drops of water landed on my table, and I didn't notice them. This morning there are a few small rust spots...

          By holding the weights to the wheel with electrical tape, I found what weight to use and where. This took about 10 minutes per wheel. Getting it close is pretty easy. At that point, the wheel will stop turning without turning back to a heavy spot. Fine tuning involves gentle touches in either direction and watching how far the wheel turns and if the wheel tries to rock back even a little.

          In the end, I used just under half an ounce on the bottom wheel and a bit less than that on the top.

          The only vibration now is the hum I'd expect. The bottom drawer that used to rattle around so much is perfectly still. It passes the nickel test, too!

          About the only thing I'd do a different if I was starting this over again is mount both the saw and the motor to a single large piece of MDF. The increased height of the motor doesn't allow me to open the bottom door as much as I'd like.

          Comment

          Working...
          X