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TS3650 Arbor

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  • #31
    Thanks DK for the notes. 'Took a deep breath I'll dig into the box tomorrow after work and have a look at the Arbor and compare it to the picture you sent the link for. That will be a big help!

    Thanks too for pointing out that I don't need to be concerned with the arbor length as it is.

    If needed, taking just the parts I need to to a service centre is a much better option for me than trying to get this huge box back to the store.

    Panic's gone, I'll let you know which arbor's in the box tomorrow.

    All the best,


    • #32
      I bought my 3650 about 3 weeks ago and the arbor was fine so not every one was bad. I have been using the freud stacked dado set in different configs but the bottom is always flat. I can't get exactly 3/4 inches wide but that is the Freud's fault not ridgid.


      • #33
        I just purchased the 3650 on 3/19/05 and assembled it today. Is the arbor problem from older saws or are the current ones also at risk? I just found this forum today, wish I would have seen it sooner.


        • #34

          It has been a crap shoot on whether the new TS-3650's have the new or old arbor in them. If you do a search on this forum, you will find pictures of the new and old arbors, mainly looking at the threads at the root of the arbor.

          Mine had the old one, I e-mailed Ridgid, and was sent one via mail in a week.

          Hope this helps you out.



          • #35
            well i hope this helps, my younger brother just bought the 3650 3 days ago and there was no problem with his arbor, it appears that any saw after manufactured after 10 feb. 05 will have the new arbor, hope that helped

            Just my opinion


            • #36
              Keith, I'm curious as to how you figured out his saw was made after 2/10/05, does the 3650 have a born on date somewhere on the saw? I looked on my 3612 and couldn't find one on it.
              ================================================== ====
              All of us could take a lesson from the weather. It pays no attention to criticism.


              • #37
                I called last wk for my replacement and was told that it would be at least 30 days. She also told me where the service center closest to me is located (1.5hrs) and said, "I have noted on your order that I informed you that you should take your machine to a service center since performing the work may void your warranty". I asked if it was due to the possibility that I could ruin another part or the new arbor and she said, "Exactly". That's my experience thus far. Too bad there isn't a temporary sticky here about replacing the arbor!


                • #38
                  Re: TS3650 and TS2424 Arbor

                  I have the same arbor lenght problem with my TS2424. You can't find a dado set that will fit.

                  I was hoping that Ridgid would help but no joy. They are deniing the problem.

                  Originally posted by imported_maineman View Post
                  Glad you got your arbor fast, scb.
                  threefinger: thanks for the consolation, yeah none of that girly decaf slosh for moi, just yet.

                  And on a more serious note, my rant this day was because I am back to square one. Yes I got the replacement arbor. 6 weeks ago. Took it out to the saw. Lined up new arbor along side the end of OEM flawed arbor. Same length from flange.

                  I'm torqued because some goof on here said the Freud Super 8" set would fit on corrected arbors.

                  So I call CS day after I got first replacement. Had nice (supposedly technical (not CS) dept.) gal in SC take a ruler to an arbor supposedly corrected so as to accomodate any good quality stacked dado set. All of it. Talking some volume rabbetting to be done.

                  So the tech gal apparently strokes me and claims she is getting 1/8" more arbor length from face of arbor flange. I ask her. Are you measuring from the flange inside recess or from the true face of the flange (the perimeter rim). We measure it both ways. She still says it's 1/8" longer than the one they sent to me.

                  Yes. the groove near shoulder was fine. But I wanted the danged length fixed. Nobody on this site, not even the mutual admiration society who got the groove fixed, ever even addressed the length issue.

                  So I say fine, happy happy. Send the one you have and glad to return the first replacement to get the longer one.

                  It was a total stroke job.

                  2nd replacement arrived today. I open the box and inside was a hand printed note saying arbor I got and the one in the new box are the same length.

                  Now my question to all the guys telling themselves what a triumph they earned for us on the groove issue is whether or not they got the stones to push for a longer arbor.

                  I mean good kreepers, how long have dado mfgr's been making sets that go up to 13/16's annnnnnnnnnnd to accomodate a safe nut-to-thread engagement.

                  Hell yeah it's a great saw. What really doesn't sit well with me is that higher ups who dropped the ball (QC - purchasing issue) in the first place, now force these poor kids in SC, not to mention us, to suffer the humiliation of their mistake.

                  And it will be humiliating, I'm sorry, the minute gramps asks why the spare chipper is still in the Freud case even as I got a few hundred 2" wide rabbetts in front of me to cut.


                  Hey, threefinger. I could sure use a new QC or engineering joke if you got any.
                  Originally posted by threefinger View Post
                  Do you know why engineers have a flat farhead and a round mouth?
                  A open palm slap to the head while saying " I said that".
                  I got in touch with a local machine shop after reading your concerns. I am going to drop off the bad arbor and find out why they got it wrong the first time and a price for one about .25" longer.
                  If anyone is interested in a longer arbor let me know. I'm sure they will be cheaper by the dozen.
                  Originally posted by imported_maineman View Post

                  We're on the same wavelength here.

                  I called CS this morning and asked for Larry Snyder. CS's Gary said Snyder took rest of week to attend memorial services. Left my name and email to have someone get back to me who might be able to give thumbs up or down on having longer arbors made. In limited number for those who need them.

                  Told Gary to tell them I'd throw down as much as $50 to have one made up. Probably too generous of me but I do love the saw otherwise. Plus I've been welding up really cool (IMHO) extension designs for removable outfeed and router supports.

                  I'm thinking 1/4" as well and you're right about "cheaper by the dozen".

                  Gary said he did suspect the originals were made overseas. We all deduce that much.

                  Thing would be though that they (HD and Ridgid and Emerson, TWI or whatever parent is called) would have immediate concerns if they did not have "quality" (yeahright) control over any new arbor supplier and the grade of steel, for instance.

                  I'm interested in hell in whatever you can find out, independently. My only concern would be that I need the warranty in case the motor got tired of spinning this Freud, y'know.

                  I've got motor wired for 220, however it's obviously the torgue, and stress on bearings that I'd expect to be covered by the lifetime.


                  As it is, with the new (shorty) arbor, guess I will try swapping that in today. I am nervous about a slight scratch on the bearing surface. Almost looks like they had the kicking around on someone's desk or that it was sent out and returned, then sent back out to me.


                  And a note to anyone reading along: My comments and feelings on this arbor LENGTH issue will only pertain to anyone planning to use a 29/32 max width dado set. I happen to have a lot of rabbeting ahead of me. Which is only reason this issue is a potential embarassment in a production - employee type situation.

                  Sorry to anyone who just thinks its bashing.


                  Otherwise, hands down The 3650 is/was the best value available. Just too bad the guys here who got the recess issue going, accepted on face that it was by design they ended up with the 13/16" max width arbor exposure.

                  If it was, then seems to me the design would have allowed for the washer to go on there too.

                  Thanks, threefinger.

                  For the joke too. BTW, can you remember one about 12 engineers and 12 mathematicians or something trying to outsmart each other for free train fare?


                  • #39
                    Re: TS3650 Arbor

                    I guess I can't understand the problem:

                    The arbor is quite long enough to accomodate a 13/16ths dado set, which is pretty much the max on a saw of this HP (and price). YOU DO NOT NEED TO USE THE SHOULDER WASHER WITH THE DADO SET. That is mentioned in the Ridgid manual and also with most of the dado set instructions. The shoulder washer is needed to put friction against the arbor with a 1/8" or less blade, After that, its function is moot. The double blades of the dado at minimum width are approx 1/4", thicker than the shoulder washer and a thin kerf blade. Add chippers, and the thickness is more (you have noticed that the width of the chippers equals or exceeds the shoulder washer diameter, haven't you?) In effect, the second dado blade, and each added chipper perform the function of the shoulder washer.

                    Before you bash the equipment and the engineers, you may want to take a course in physics. Friction coefficients would be a good place to start in this instance.

                    If the blades are spinning loose, it is because you set it up without off-setting the neighboring teeth, or you have allowed a shim to drop into a thread groove. Improper set-up, not improper design.

                    If you need larger dadoes with one cut, especially production, you need a larger saw.

                    And if you are teaching someone about safety, it would behoove you to learn the "Why" of the safety procedure, not just go the easy way and say "because I was taught that way" or because it "seems" to be safer..

                    Last edited by Gofor; 04-01-2008, 08:59 PM.
                    Practicing at practical wood working


                    • #40
                      Re: TS3650 and TS2424 Arbor

                      The author is correct the Ridgid Manual text does sate that the arbor flange is not necessary but the picture shows the arbor flange in place. In looking at the instructions for several dado sets there seems to be conflict in this area. It seems that I owe an apogee to Ridgid. It would have been nice however if the arbor was long enough to include the arbor flange to add more stability to the blades.

                      "WARNING - DO NOT use the dado stack if the arbor nut and arbor flange will not fully thread onto the arbor. The arbor nut may come loose, allowing the dado blades to fly out of the table saw, causing serious injury or deth.

                      The SD500's use an extra thick and stiff outside plate, eliminating the hub.



                      Mounting Outside Blades

                      Set up the Forrest Dado Set with the 24T, saw blades on the outside, both right and left, and with the points on the 24T blades to the outside of the stack, on the right and left sides. The outside blades are stenciled "THIS SIDE OUT" for proper installation.

                      Will a Stacked Dado Blade Fit on Your Table Saw?

                      From Chris Baylor,
                      Your Guide to Woodworking.
                      The problems is, the user might be inclined to try and use the dado set without the arbor flange (on the motor side of the blade) or the arbor washer (on the nut side of the blade) to try and employ more chippers in their set. This is a very dangerous decision, as the arbor washer and flange are in place to help stabilize the blade. You should never use your saw without both the arbor washer and arbor flange properly installed. Consult the owner's manual for your saw to learn more.
                      Last edited by Don H2; 04-06-2008, 03:09 PM.


                      • #41
                        Re: TS3650 Arbor

                        I apologize for the terse post. It was a bad day and I am human. In any case, it is more important for the nut to be fully engaged in the threads (which means full threads through the nut) than for the flange washer. With the friction of the nut against the outer blade, if the blade does slip when hitting cutting resistance, it will be rotated in the direction that tightens the nut. By all means use the flange washer whenever possible, but not at the expense of short-threading the nut.
                        Note: this does not apply to right tilt saws that have a standard threaded nut. In that case, when the blade slips it loosens the nut and can run it off. (i,e, follow the saw mnfgrs recommendations). Right tilt saws should have a left-hand threaded nut in which case this still applies.

                        Again, my apologies for my tone in my previous post.

                        Practicing at practical wood working


                        • #42
                          Re: TS3650 Arbor

                          If you can't vent to your friends....


                          • #43
                            Re: TS3650 Arbor

                            Originally posted by Gofor View Post
                            Note: this does not apply to right tilt saws that have a standard threaded nut. In that case, when the blade slips it loosens the nut and can run it off.
                            You meant to say left tilt ...correct? They also will self-tighten.


                            • #44
                              Re: TS3650 Arbor

                              Originally posted by weblance View Post
                              You meant to say left tilt ...correct? They also will self-tighten.
                              The Ridgid 3650 is a Left tilt saw, so a standard thread (tightens clockwise) nut will tighten if the blade slips a small amount when hitting cutting resistance. A Right tilt saw with a standard thread will loosen if the blade is spun from cutting resistance. ( A left tilt saw has the nut on the right, a Right tilt saw has the nut on the left).
                              If you push the wrench on the nut to tighten, you are okay. If you pull it, then the nut will loosen if the blade slips (top teeth slipping toward back of saw).
                              To be honest, I have never used a right tilt saw, so I do not know if the nuts are all left handed (tighten counterclockwise) or not.


                              tchads: Thanks
                              Practicing at practical wood working


                              • #45
                                Re: TS3650 Arbor

                                I'm just setting up my 3650 for what will be my first dado cut with it. I've got a Freud SD208 set and am stacking for a 3/4" dado (outer blades plus the four similar width chippers). There wasn't not a whole lot of space left when the outer blade washer was put in place. So, realizing that there's something I probably need read about on this, I consulted the manual. On p39 it points out that the outer washer is optional. Reading through this thread I understand why it's optional.

                                The thing I found confusing (and the reason for this post) was the instruction on p39 just following removal of the throat plate and saw blade to "remove the inner blade washer and both the small and large spacers." This was a familiar thing as my previous saw had a removable inner flange and a spacer. However, looking at the inner edge of the arbor, the flange looks like it's part of the arbor itself. So, before I begin any wrenching or banging I thought it prudent to seek some further direction.

                                Do my eyes deceive me? Does the inboard flange come off, or is it actually part of the arbor itself?